The Art and Evolution of Tama-Ori: How Sawai Orimono Is Weaving Beyond Boundaries

2026.02.19

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#Tama-ori

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#History

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#History

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Hachioji, a city in Tokyo once celebrated as the "City of Mulberry," has a rich history of prosperity built on sericulture and weaving. It's here that Sawai Orimono Co., Ltd. has been making its mark for over 120 years, preserving the techniques of the traditional craft known as "Tama-ori." Shin Sawai, the 19th-generation head of the family business, is pushing the boundaries of what textiles can be. He's not just weaving traditional kimono fabrics; he's also supplying materials to international fashion houses, collaborating with diverse industries, and even upcycling discarded materials, continually expanding the potential of his craft.

PROFILE

Shin Sawai

As the head of Sawai Orimono, a third-generation weaving mill in Hachioji, Tokyo, Shin Sawai is a certified traditional craftsman of "Tama-ori," an art form designated as a traditional craft by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Employing a wide array of techniques from hand-weaving to shuttle looms, he focuses on developing original textiles that bring out the unique character of the yarn. With a portfolio of successful collaborations with brands and creators both in Japan and abroad, he uses traditional skills as a foundation to create materials that meet contemporary demands. By drawing on his locally rooted skills and artistic sense, he continues to explore the potential for fabrics that can be a part of everyday life.

120 Years in Hachioji, the "City of Mulberry": A Shift from Kimono to Fashion

Hachioji has long thrived on sericulture, developing a rich history as a hub for raw silk and woven goods. The roots of the Sawai family are deeply intertwined with the region's industrial past. The family line traces back to samurai who migrated from Niigata. They later practiced Kampo (traditional Chinese medicine) before turning to sericulture, and four generations ago, they embarked on their journey into weaving.

While the company had long been a pillar of the kimono industry, it faced a major turning point with the collapse of Japan's bubble economy. As demand for kimonos plummeted, they found a new avenue in fashion accessories. The catalyst was a single *obiage*, a decorative sash worn with a kimono.

“I was inspired by a friend's *obiage* and thought it would be great to make a stole. I started making them about 30 years ago, just after the bubble burst.”

This moment sparked a new challenge: adapting traditional Japanese weaving techniques to modern lifestyles. The company actively participated in exhibitions in New York, making inroads into the international market. However, the path was far from easy. Despite facing numerous hardships, including the bankruptcy of business partners, they persevered, continually refining their techniques by producing samples and gradually building trust with domestic apparel brands.