2022.09.01
Ambient Weaving, Developed by ZOZO NEXT, Wins Honorary Mention at One of the World's Largest Media Art Events
Ars Electronica, an arts, advanced technology, and cultural festival held in Linz, Austria, is one of the world's largest media art events. At the STARTS (Innovation at the Nexus of Science, Technology, and the ARTS) section of Ars Electronica 2022, held from September 7 to 11, 'Ambient Weaving,' co-developed by ZOZO NEXT Inc. in collaboration with Yasuaki Kakehi Laboratory at UTokyo and Hosoo Co., Ltd., received an Honorary Mention. But what is 'Ambient Weaving'? We spoke to Satoshi Nakamaru, who led the project at ZOZO NEXT, to find out more.
'Ambient Weaving' combines cutting-edge digital technology with traditional Nishijin-ori weaving techniques, creating textiles that express environmental information, and embody the environment itself. Ars Electronica 2022 will feature three pieces from the project.
A Fusion of Traditional Craft and Advanced Technology
"One of them is a work called 'Wave of Warmth' that uses thermochromic dye, which changes color with heat. It visualizes the invisible environmental information, temperature, through the medium of textile."For instance, if you wore an item made from a similar fabric to 'Wave of Warmth', the fabric could change color depending on whether you are indoors or outdoors, day or night, the season, or even the temperature difference between your departure and arrival locations during travel.
"'Drifting Colors' is a piece in which we wove a special tube into the weft of the fabric, and the color changes as water containing dye seeps into the tube. Employing a technique known as chromatography, color patterns are created as the dye separates within the threads as the colored water is drawn up from the edge of the fabric. When clear water is drawn up, the fabric returns to its original white color."
The color patterns can be changed repeatedly and shift moment by moment, influenced by environmental factors such as humidity. It's a piece of textile that seems to come straight out of a science fiction world.
"The third piece is 'Woven Glow.' We've woven luminescent material in a foil-like form into this piece. By integrating electro-luminescent (EL) material into the weft and controlling it with a computer, the patterns of the fabric can be switched like an animation."
EL technology is familiarly used in devices like thin-panel televisions. A textile that glows in programmed patterns is certainly eye-catching and impactful.
What kind of exhibitions are planned for these three pieces at Ars Electronica?
"All three pieces, 'Wave of Warmth,' 'Drifting Colors,' and 'Woven Glow,' are designed to highlight changes based on environmental factors and time. 'Wave of Warmth' changes color with temperature, 'Drifting Colors' with water, and 'Woven Glow' with electricity. Another unique aspect is that the time scales of change for each piece vary. We hope to organize exhibits that present different faces depending on the timing of the visit."
In fact, 'Ambient Weaving' was also exhibited at SXSW (South by Southwest) 2022, held in Texas, USA, in March this year, and received high acclaim. Now, the project has won an Honorary Mention at Ars Electronica. What's next for 'Ambient Weaving'?
"Both SXSW and Ars Electronica are events that attract attention from numerous creators, artists, and businesses, and we feel that this award has great significance. In particular, winning pieces at Ars Electronica are archived as catalogs.Moreover, we've already been approached about potential applications for the 'Ambient Weaving' textiles. While I can't go into details, we might see these textiles appearing not just in clothing, but also in daily life in the near future."
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