A Three-Generation Artisan Bloodline: An Encounter with Tsumami Kanzashi

Ishida Shoten is a workshop based in Takadanobaba, Tokyo. Its history traces back to Ishida's grandfather. Born into a farming family in Fukushima Prefecture, his grandfather found work at the home of a tsumami kanzashi artisan. This marked the beginning of the Ishida family's path in the craft.

"My grandfather was from a farming family in Fukushima. Since he wasn't the eldest son, he was sent out to work, and he happened to end up at the home of a tsumami kanzashi artisan. That's how he started making kanzashi in Tokyo. My father took over after him, and eventually, I inherited the business."

For Ishida, who grew up in an artisan's home, helping with the family business was a part of daily life. He says it was normal for him to help with work during long school breaks like summer vacation, outside of his playtime. Although he was naturally exposed to the techniques from a young age, he made the conscious decision to pursue the craft after graduating from university.

And so, Ishida officially stepped into the world of tsumami kanzashi. It was the dawn of a career as an artisan that would span over 40 years.

A 40-Year Journey: Navigating the Highs and Lows of a Traditional Craft

When Ishida became an artisan in the early 1980s, the demand for kanzashi was in decline as fewer people were wearing traditional Japanese clothing (waso). Interest in traditional crafts was not as high as it is today, and the industry faced challenging times.

However, the situation began to change as more people gradually started wearing kimonos again. The rise of the DIY and handmade boom over the past decade marked a significant turning point. The number of people making tsumami kanzashi as a hobby grew, boosting the craft's recognition. This led to the emergence of independent "artists" (sakka) who had acquired their own unique techniques, in addition to traditional artisans like Ishida.

Today, the most common use for tsumami kanzashi is for seven-year-old children during the Shichi-Go-San festival. As a nationwide event where kimonos are often worn, it creates a stable demand. This is followed by use with furisode (long-sleeved kimonos) for Coming of Age Day ceremonies. Kanzashi for maiko (apprentice geisha) are less common in number, as their world is very specific.