What Defines the Refined & Stylish Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen?

Please tell us about the history of Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen.

Yuzen dyeing is a technique that originated in Kyoto. It became popular when Miyazaki Yuzen, an artist of folding fans during the Edo period, applied the patterns he drew on fans to kosode (a type of traditional Japanese garment). The dyeing technique known as Yuzen dyeing developed from these originally fan-based patterns.
Prior to this, decorations on kimono used techniques like tie-dyeing and embroidery. The advent of Yuzen dyeing gave rise to outlined decorations, enabling the use of multiple colors.

Yuzen dyeing, born and popularized in Kyoto, spread to Edo (modern Tokyo) when daimyos (feudal lords) brought their personal dye masters to Edo during the Sankin-Kotai (alternate attendance) ceremonial processions. By the 1800s, the technique had taken root in Edo.
It is also said that when Miyazaki Yuzen himself moved to Kanazawa, he passed on his techniques, which gave rise to Kaga-Yuzen.

Each of the three types of Yuzen has distinct characteristics.
First, Kyo-Yuzen is characterized by traditional patterns like the "Goshodoki" depicting seasonal flowers around the Imperial Palace and motifs like pine, bamboo, and plum. Using many colors is also a feature of Kyo-Yuzen.

Kaga-Yuzen is known for realistic depictions of plants and birds, embracing nature's beauty. It often incorporates shading to create impressive effects.

Earning its distinct appeal, Edo or Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen lacks specific motifs in its patterns but is characterized by its limited use of colors, resulting in clean and simple designs.

This is due to the repeated issuance of sumptuary laws, or bans on extravagance, in the late Edo period, which restricted the number of colors that could be used in kimono and luxury garments.

Amid such conditions, the townspeople of Edo found joy in incorporating patterns into a single color or adding designs to the lining of their garments. From such enjoyment, expressing refined elegance came to be known as "iki" (粋, "chic").

However, today, many artisans who have trained in Kyoto or Kaga are active in Tokyo. Thus, it is hard to generalize characteristics conclusively. The individual traits of each dyer are what make Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen fascinating.