Passing on Traditional Techniques: The History of "Ryukyu Bingata" Woven by the Chinen Bingata Lab
2024.10.28
Passing on Traditional Techniques: The History of "Ryukyu Bingata" Woven by the Chinen Bingata Lab
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PROFILE
Touma Chinen
Touma Chinen

Born into the Chinen family, guardians of the Bingata tradition symbolizing Ryukyu culture. After studying graphic design in Kyoto, Osaka, and Milan, Italy, at 17, he entered the mystical world of Ryukyu Bingata under the guidance of his grandfather, Sadao Chinen. At 22, he inherited the workshop and the traditional techniques as the 10th generation of the Shimujibu Chinen Family.
Now, as the head of the workshop, he is dedicated to nurturing young craftsmen with expertise and passion. Through collaborations with various industries and innovative approaches utilizing social media, he is committed to promoting and developing Ryukyu Bingata both domestically and internationally. Every day, he strives to link the unique beauty of Bingata to the future.

Bingata, designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan, is a traditional dyeing technique alongside Yuzen dyeing and Komon dyeing. In Okinawa, it has been passed down as "Ryukyu Bingata" from ancient times.
The origins of Ryukyu Bingata date back to around 1400 (14th-15th century). Though it declined once with the disbandment of the royal regime, it was revitalized with Okinawa's reconstruction.
The "Chinen Bingata Lab" actively undertakes new challenges while connecting the long history of Ryukyu Bingata to the future. This time, we spoke with the 10th-generation Touma Chinen about the charm of Ryukyu Bingata and the initiatives at the workshop.

Bingata, Cherished as Okinawa's Unique Culture

First, could you tell us about your laboratory?
Our workshop was founded by my grandfather in 1972. Originally, we are one of the three familial schools that crafted Bingata for the Ryukyu Royalty, known as "Shimujibu Chinen Family."

I began working seriously at this workshop about 15 years ago when I was 21. Until joining the workshop, I worked in graphic design in Osaka and vaguely thought I would inherit the family business around the age of 30.

However, following the sudden death of my grandfather, I took over much sooner than expected, which led me to learn both the craft and management simultaneously.

Why did Bingata develop in Okinawa?
There seem to be various factors behind the development of Bingata.

Originally, Bingata was made for the Ryukyu Royal family or as trade goods. To prevent it from disappearing and to promote their culture to other countries, they developed the techniques.

Regarding silk fabrics, Okinawa was part of a route that extended north from China to Japan, which helped establish it here.

Though the processes for creating Bingata are very numerous, it is entirely done by hand. The fact that customers valued items only expressible through these handmade techniques has allowed Bingata to be preserved as a traditional craft in Okinawa for so long.

Although modern technologies like AI and 3D printers have advanced recently, we continue our craftsmanship, hoping that traditional techniques like Bingata will persist.

What distinguishes the Bingata you produce at your laboratory?
We pursue various challenges to expand our range of expressions. Specifically, we collaborate with professionals from various industries and actively incorporate digital technology, which might be rare in the Bingata industry.

In the past, we collaborated with Arita ware and Okinawa's Yachimun (pottery). We aim to create products that even those unfamiliar with Bingata or crafts might find interesting, making our approach accessible.

Hearing people recognize our products, "They must be from the Chinen family," signifies that these efforts are bearing fruit.
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