Mesmerized at First Glance

I will never forget the first time I saw an authentic Japanese kimono at a flea market in Tokyo. It was a haori, a short jacket worn over a kimono, adorned with painted and embroidered floral motifs on luminous olive green silk. The vibrant colours and intricate patterns caught my eye from afar, but it was even more stunning up close. The finesse of the design and the brilliance of the gold threads woven into the silk were mesmerising. It felt like this garment belonged in a museum display rather than at a flea market stall.

It was April 2014, and I had just moved to Japan’s capital to spend a year studying fashion design. I soon discovered that finding kimonos at flea markets was not rare, and there were even entire markets and specialized shops dedicated to selling vintage kimonos and accessories.

Today, ten years later, I am certain that discovering and having access to these artisanal treasures is one of the reasons I never left Japan. Inspired by the beauty and history of these textiles, I decided to stay in Japan and embark on a new creative journey. I began recycling these discarded fabrics into one-of-a-kind bags. Transforming old into new became a labour of love, breathing new life into forgotten treasures.

A Legacy of Cross-Cultural Inspiration

As a French designer, my fascination with Japanese designs is not new. French designers and artists have been deeply inspired by Japanese aesthetics since the Japonism movement in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As I studied this specific period I was amused by historians referring to a real “craze” for Japanese goods. The collector inside me can't help but wonder if my ancestors were involved in this business at the time.

This historical connection made my discovery even more meaningful, linking my personal journey to a long-standing cultural admiration. In fact, there is an old relationship of mutual inspiration and influence between French and Japanese textiles. For example, whenever I look at the organic forms and nature-inspired motifs of kimonos I can see they clearly influenced French textile production, particularly in the Art Nouveau movement, which I dearly appreciate for its harmonious blend of Eastern and Western aesthetics.

On another hand, French Jacquard looms imported into Japan have contributed to the development and refinement of the famous Nishijin textiles. During the Meiji period (1868-1912), the Japanese government actively encouraged the importation of Western technologies to modernize the country, including textile technologies to improve the production and quality of local fabrics.

Timeless Craftsmanship & Sustainability

Looking at these Japanese textiles through French eyes, I am struck by the modernity and timelessness of the motifs. In an era where we strive to create more sustainable fashion, what could be better than timeless fashion that never goes out of trend? Natural motifs are definitely key in my eyes, a tribute to the beauty of nature and the perpetual succession of seasons, appreciated year after year.

Additionally, the use of precious materials in these fabrics is remarkable. Some obis incorporate gold thread, powder, or genuine mother of pearl, highlighting the exceptional skill and artistry involved. These luxurious elements are not merely decorative but represent significant achievements in textile craftsmanship. The ability to blend such opulent materials with traditional techniques underscores the artistry and dedication behind these textiles.(For a visual illustration of these descriptions, I invite you to browse the collection of obis showcased on my website in the “custom order” section.)

Reflecting on the Future

There is a real question about the ability of these artisans to renew themselves to endure, but studying these textiles also makes me question our way of producing and consuming today. I sometimes wonder if our grandchildren and future generations will also have the chance to find such treasures in our closets and attics. What care and technique do we expect from the making of our clothes? Will they outlast us, and what stories will they tell about our era?

In reflecting on these questions, I am reminded of the importance of valuing craftsmanship and preserving the traditions that connect us to our past. As we look to the future, let us carry forward the lessons of beauty, sustainability, and cultural exchange embodied in these exquisite textiles.