My first encounter with Japanese crafts was in 2019 when I studied as an exchange student at Hiroshima City University. The dedication and precision I got to know during my classes, fascinated me deeply and made me eager to learn more about the field. Since then, I have developed a deep appreciation for the craftspeople involved in these activities, which require a great deal of skill and knowledge. As a textile designer, I am particularly interested in textile crafts and thus returned to Japan in the autumn of 2023 with the objective of furthering my knowledge of Japanese textile practices that are usually rooted in the production of kimonos.

In spring 2024 I had the opportunity to stay at the Kurume Kasuri weaving company Shimogawa Orimono (Yame, Kyushu) for about a month to study the process of making the Japanese textile Kurume Kasuri. The production of Kurume Kasuri is a complex and time- consuming process, encompassing numerous intricate steps. In total the production of a machine woven Kurume Kasuri textile involves about 30 steps and takes at least 2-3 months. The local textile has a history that dates back over 200 years and has been passed on through many generations.

Traditionally the Kasuri pattern is achieved through reserving cotton warp and weft threads through tying. Subsequently the yarn is dyed with indigo multiple times and then handwoven. This way of production has been honored as “important intangible cultural property” since 1957 and is still practiced by multiple workshops in the area around Kurume. What is special about the textile community around Kurume Kasuri is the coexistence of machine woven and handwoven Kurume Kasuri textiles, due to the introduction of power looms in the past. Even till today both ways of production go hand in hand and support each other.

Shimogawa Orimono has been established in 1948 and is one of the weaving companies producing Kurume Kasuri using power looms as well as machines to tie warp and weft yarn in the production. The application of these technologies in the production process allows craftspeople to produce contemporary goods at a reduced cost, thereby enabling them to remain competitive in the modern market. While technology is employed by the artisans in the production process, their work is primarily assisted by technology, and the overall work process remains quite time- and labor-intensive. For example, even though power looms are used they must be supervised by a craftsperson meticulously. Here the tension of the warp as well as the weft are important, and a skilled craftsperson will know exactly where to insert a bamboo stick to even out said tension. As Kurume Kasuri is famous for its double Ikat pattern this step is quite complicated. Watching the craftspeople at the workshop and seeing how highly skilled they are in their work, really left a deep impression on me.