"100-Year Coat" – The High-End Series of SANYO COAT Embodies the Japanese Spirit of Craftsmanship

Since its establishment in 1943, SANYO SHOKAI has been at the forefront of Japanese fashion culture. As a comprehensive apparel manufacturer, it has introduced numerous foreign brands to Japan from the '60s to the '90s, while continuously producing high-quality coats in its own factories from the early days.

Since its founding in 1943, SANYO SHOKAI has led Japanese fashion culture. This comprehensive apparel manufacturer has a strong coat-making legacy, and in 2013, it began the production of the "100-Year Coat"—a culmination of its efforts.

This coat is meticulously crafted from material to sewing, teaching us once again the value of "using good things for a long time and with care."

The History of SANYO SHOKAI Walking Alongside Coats

This time, we spoke with Shinichi Tanaka, the brand's MD. Let's start with the history of coat-making at SANYO SHOKAI.

“SANYO SHOKAI was established in 1943 by founder Nobuyuki Yoshihara in Tokyo during the Pacific War. It initially focused on trading whetstones, but had to restart from scratch after the war. The founder then used a large quantity of blackout curtains made for wartime lighting control to create gentlemen's raincoats. This was our first coat.”

Subsequently, successful products like women's oil silk "raincoats" and "rubberized raincoats" made to order for PX (Post Exchange) appeared in the market.

In 1951, the "SANYO Rain Coat" was trademarked, boosting its recognition through radio commercials.

“In 1959, we released the Umbrella Coat inspired by cinema mode (the clothing and hairstyles of movie heroes and heroines). This coat, created in collaboration with a film distribution company, recorded explosive sales of 50,000 units in a single season, leading to several years of shortages.”

By the way, SANYO SHOKAI started attaching woven names and tags to its products in the 1950s.

It was a pioneer among Japanese apparel manufacturers in establishing such corporate identity.

The Birth of the 100-Year Coat, Embodying Japanese Aesthetics

In 2013, marking the 70th anniversary of the company's establishment, the "100-Year Coat Project" was initiated.

“In light of the diversification of fashion, we formulated the corporate tagline 'TIMELESS WORK. Let's create truly good products.' The 100-Year Coat is a series that symbolizes this.”

What exactly is the "100-Year Coat"?

“In short, it is a 'pure domestic' coat that delves deeply into Japanese aesthetics. We aimed for a pure domestic product that clearly distinguishes itself from simply being made in Japan. The 100-Year Coat was the first product certified by J∞QUALITY.”

Production takes place at the 'Sanyō Sewing Aomori Factory' located in Shichinohe, Aomori Prefecture.

“Established in 1969, this factory is the backbone of our manufacturing. It is renowned for its skills in sewing and finishing coats, producing not only our products but also coats for other famous brands. Particularly in the area of cotton gabardine trench coats, we can claim to have unmatched technical skills in Japan.”

Craftsmanship is Present in Every Detail from Materials to Sewing

So, how does the 100-Year Coat made in such a factory differ from other coats? Let's take a look at the "Standard Model" trench coat, which forms the foundation of the series.

“The Standard Model features a front body with set-in sleeves and a back body with raglan sleeves, creating a split raglan design. This specification allows it to look sleek even when worn over a jacket, while providing a comfortable fit; the ideal balance arises from this.”

The distinctive "difference" is evident in its flowing silhouette.

“There are no distortions or stagnations from the shoulder to the hem, and the fabric falls smoothly, creating a clean silhouette. This silhouette is achieved through the unity of pattern (blueprint), sewing, and finishing (ironing). This is a culmination of accumulated knowledge in coat-making over the past 55 years.”

The cotton gabardine used is also original.

"The cotton is produced at a dyeing and weaving factory in Saitama Prefecture, where the dyeing of the yarn and weaving process are managed consistently. We dye the yarn at the stage of production to maintain beautiful colors using high-quality Giza cotton as the raw material. The warp yarn is dyed beige, while the weft yarn is dyed gold, and by weaving these two differently colored yarns densely together, we achieve a refined and deep expression. This is a product of the dyeing and weaving techniques that have been inherited over many years."

The surface is treated with water-repellent processing to handle sudden rain.

"The cotton gabardine processed by a Japanese textile finishing factory, known for its top-tier technology in developing and producing high-performance materials, is not only water-repellent on the surface but also a special fabric that has passed water resistance tests. Our insistence on reliable water repellency is rooted in our heritage of raincoats."

Craftsmanship is evident in every detail.

"The collar, often referred to as the face of the coat, is an important part that influences the overall impression. The sewing of this area is a challenging process that requires compatibility between the curves and the texture of the fabric. Therefore, artisans sew it by hand, stitch by stitch, to create gentle curves."

There are also secrets in the elegant return of the lapel.

"The lapel is sewn by shifting the front and back fabrics by less than one millimeter to align with the return, creating a natural three-dimensional effect in the collar's return."

Innovative designs for longevity are present throughout.

"The buttons are attached by artisans using a technique called 'nemaki (根巻き).' This method enhances the height at the base of the button, making it easy to put on and take off, as well as less likely to come off even after years of use. Additionally, the sleeve cuffs down to the sleeve belt are intentionally designed to be longer. This is a thoughtful design that allows for multiple repairs if the cuffs wear out over many years of use."

A Diverse Lineup that Meets Authenticity Seekers

In addition to the "Standard Model," the 100-Year Coat features various variations.

The "Classic Model" features a one-piece raglan sleeve.

It offers more room around the shoulders, sleeve openings, and body width compared to the standard model, and incorporates authentic trench coat details such as pass-through pockets and magazine pockets inside.

"The lining, back, and collar are developed with a pattern based on 'Okina-goshi (翁格子),' seen in Kabuki costumes. Okina-goshi is an auspicious pattern symbolizing prosperity of descendants, aligning nicely with the concept of the 100-Year Coat, which is loved across generations."

The luxury of the "100-Year Coat KIWAMI" stands out.

"As the name suggests, it is the ultimate coat made using high-quality materials without hesitation. The raw cotton gabardine is crafted from Ultimate Pima, organically grown on contract farms in the United States. By using yarn spun to be slightly thicker, we create a fabric that combines flexibility, durability, and an elegant luster."

Additionally, it is meticulously crafted down to the details, featuring a lining filled with Aomori down, D-rings on the belt evoking the roots of trench coats, and buttons made from real water buffalo with special holes to prevent thread from snapping.

"The silhouette emphasizes a three-dimensional drape effect with an A-line design. The longer length sways gracefully as you walk, creating a splendid ambiance. Furthermore, the coat's collar is designed to rest on the cervical spine, providing support along the body for a light wearing experience."

The "100-Year Coat SUI" is designed to meet modern needs by pursuing lightweight comfort.

"The secret to its lightness lies in the cotton gabardine. We developed an original fabric that is about 30% lighter than traditional cotton gabardine by using special hollow polyester yarns with hollow centers for the weft and ultra-long cotton for the warp. Moreover, the patterns are designed to contour to the torso, minimizing the feeling of weight of the coat. It achieves a surprisingly lightweight sensation for a long trench coat."

Although it is light in feel, it does not compromise on warmth as an outer layer. The removable lining's back panel features high-tech photon insulation, which absorbs and radiates the body’s heat, providing gentle warmth.

"While there are unique models available, for those who desire more customization, we offer personal ordering options. You can customize various elements such as coat design, size, fabric, button types, and collar patterns."

To realize a coat that can be passed down through generations, a service called the 100-Year Owner Plan has been introduced. This plan allows owners to directly consult with the makers of the coat regarding repairs and maintenance. It also includes a program where the coat is cared for every three years.

"What SANYO SHOKAI considers to be truly good is something practical and long-lasting. The 100-Year Coat is not just about creating the highest quality; we also focus on aftercare after delivering it to our customers, as we want them to use it for a long time. We hope that the 100-Year Coat will serve as a bridge to convey the Japanese spirit of cherishing things that has been nurtured over the years. This is our wish as creators."