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“dito” – Custom-Made Shoes Crafted from Vintage Shoe Lasts from Around the World
Custom-made shoes designed to suit each customer's order. They are an aspiration for those who want to enjoy a more mature sense of fashion, but it’s not uncommon to struggle with which brand to choose. That’s why this time, we’d like to introduce a brand called dito.
Once you discover what sets Dito apart from conventional custom shoemakers and hear from the two shoemakers behind the brand, Kai Ishii and Fumiya Masubuchi, you’ll start to appreciate the unique appeal of Dito.
Crafting Shoes Using Vintage Shoe Lasts from Japan & Abroad
The standout characteristic of Dito is creating shoes based on vintage shoe lasts collected from Japan and overseas. You won’t easily find another brand employing this shoemaking approach. Let’s take a deeper dive into Dito’s approach to shoemaking.“Even before starting Dito, we had been collecting vintage shoe lasts, and now we own lasts from six countries: America, Italy, Germany, France, Japan, and the UK. Among the many custom-made shoe brands, we thought it would be interesting to have a brand that lets you ‘choose a country and make shoes.’”
“For example, if someone makes their suit from Italian fabric, maybe they’d want their shoes crafted using an Italian shoe last. Or, for fans of American casual style, making shoes with American shoe lasts might be appealing. That’s the kind of experience we want to offer.
"Currently, we have a full range of sizes for American, Italian, and German lasts, so you can order those. Of course, we don’t just make shoes with vintage lasts—for us, comfort is just as important. That’s why we pay close attention to details like the curvature of the heel and the construction of the arch.”
“We start by measuring the customer’s feet and discussing their preferred shoe style. We’ll decide on the base shoe last, the design, and the leather to use. Then, we fine-tune the shoe last to fit the customer’s feet perfectly and finish the shoes using the hand-sewn welted method.
"Unlike traditional bespoke shoes, where a brand-new last is made for every client, Dito uses vintage shoe lasts, eliminating the cost of making a new one and making our prices much more affordable.”
Shoes Like Works of Art: The Starting Point & the Goal
What kind of career paths have these two, so devoted to shoemaking, walked? Here, we’ll explore the stories that led up to the launch of Dito in 2023. First, Masubuchi shares his journey."When I was in junior high, I played soccer and I loved spikes as a product. That’s what inspired me to become a shoe designer, so I enrolled at Bunka Fashion College. There, I not only learned shoe design but also experienced making shoes firsthand, and discovered how fascinating it was.
"After graduation, I worked at several companies related to footwear. Each company has its own unique approach to shoemaking and design, so I moved through three different firms to get an all-around experience, focusing mainly on pattern-making. It was at the last company where I met Ishii."
Next, let’s hear how Ishii became a shoemaker.
"I used to work as a businessperson in Shimbashi, but spent my days off attending a shoemaking school, where I learned how enjoyable making shoes could be. After about a year of planning, I quit my job and moved to Italy, beginning an apprenticeship at the workshop of 'Mannina,' a storied Florence brand.
"In the beginning, I mainly just watched, but eventually, I took on tasks such as making tassels for loafers, polishing finished shoes, helping with sole attachment, and adjusting lasts. I trained there for just under three years.
"After returning to Japan, I continued to attend a shoemaking school for another year, then worked at a company making boots and at a made-to-order women’s shoe company—where I met Masubuchi."
The spark that led these two seasoned shoemakers to start Dito was an unfinished single shoe Ishii found in an antique shop. Ishii continues:
"At an antique shop, I found a shoe in an unfinished state with the leather stretched over the last. Even though it wasn’t complete, it looked so attractive that I showed it to Masubuchi.
"That led us to talk about how we could make it even cooler, and from our desire to make something that isn’t for wearing, but rather for showcasing a specific process in shoemaking, we created a 'shoe objet d’art.' I find it beautiful how the flawless leather hugs the shape of the last so perfectly.
"This was the beginning of Dito. However, these pieces don’t have a price tag. We didn’t just want to pursue this kind of artistic element—we also wanted to make shoes that would make customers happy. So while developing our custom-made shoe business, we hope that someday the time will come when our shoe objets can be presented to the world as true works of art."
Award-Winning at the World Championships of Shoemaking 2024
The World Championships of Shoemaking, a global contest held annually in London to showcase craftsmanship in leather shoes, saw Dito enter last year and successfully win an award. We asked Masubuchi about that experience and the piece they exhibited."The theme for 2024 was loafers. The criteria required a full strap passing over the arch of the foot and the use of light brown leather. Each participant had to create loafers under these conditions, and we chose 'Wa' (Japanese essence) as our theme, drawing inspiration from elements such as shrines and temples.
"We put a lot of effort into the details on the insole and heel, while giving the shoe sides a sharp-edged shape known as 'Tana.' Similar to the spirit of our previously mentioned shoe objets, this was a shoe created less for wearing and more for visual appreciation."
"At the award ceremony, the top ten brands and designers had their names called, and when we heard 'dito TOKYO,' we realized we had placed. Although we were aiming for the top spot and did feel a hint of disappointment, the experience proved extremely valuable."
From vintage lasts and shoe objets to their success at the World Championships of Shoemaking and the distinct personalities of these two craftsmen, the keywords describing Dito are as diverse as they come. It all points to Dito being a unique, one-of-a-kind bespoke shoe brand.
Orders for their shoes are always welcome at their Asakusa atelier, but they also occasionally hold order events at various shops. "There are still so many towns we haven’t visited, so if the opportunity arises, we’d love to hold order events in a variety of places," they say. If you’re interested in having a custom pair made, why not reach out and connect with them?
PROFILE
Kai Ishii
After graduating from university, joined an IT company. Having loved leather goods since his student days, he began attending shoemaking classes on his days off as a hobby. Fascinated by the craft, he decided to leave his company and move to Italy, where he trained for about three years at a bespoke shoe workshop in Florence. Upon returning to Japan, he worked at a men’s shoe manufacturer producing work boots and at a company making custom women’s pumps before launching his independent venture.
PROFILE
Fumiya Masubuchi
After graduating from the Footwear Department of Bunka Fashion College in 2009, he worked in planning and sales at a women's shoe manufacturer. With nearly 13 years of experience crafting patterns, he has created everything from sneakers to sandals and long boots. Additionally, he acquired the skills of last-making independently. While working at a custom shoe company, he discovered the appeal of custom-made and men's shoes, which inspired him to become independent.
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