Articles

The Dutch Luxury Brand "Wandler": The Birth of Innovative Leather Goods Capturing Global Attention

2024.10.29

Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, is renowned as a hub for culture and the arts. Historically, this city has produced artists such as Van Gogh and Vermeer, and it hosts one of Europe’s largest music festivals. Many artists are drawn to its liberal culture and choose to relocate here.

In the fashion scene, creativity abounds, with brands gaining attention for their experimental creations. Among these, the leather goods brand "Wandler" stands out, recognized globally as a leading Dutch brand.

The bags are characterized by a blend of design and practicality, featuring sculptural shapes reminiscent of modern art. Signature pieces like the “Hortensia” and “Penelope” are commonly spotted in the streets of Amsterdam and Paris, as well as during Fashion Week, where fashion industry insiders gather.

With high-quality leather and meticulous attention to detail, the brand boasts a timeless elegance that is not swayed by trends. We spoke with Elza, the designer and entrepreneur leading “Wandler,” about the brand’s inception, the background of its creation, and its aesthetic.

PROFILE

Elza Wandler

Founder & Designer of “Wandler”

Graduated from the Fashion & Branding course at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. Gained experience as the women’s designer for Levi's premium line "Made and Crafted" starting in 2012, laying the groundwork for balancing creative design and commercial viability. In 2017, she established her eponymous brand “Wandler.”

With 1 Year of Specialized Training in “Brand Building & Crisis Management”

Introducing the new iconic bag "Mia Shopper"

What was your greatest motivation for establishing your own brand “Wandler”?

I have always felt a desire to start something on my own. After gaining sufficient experience, I felt it was time to design under my own name. I believe that the timing is crucial when things fall into place.

The catalyst was a conversation during dinner with a sales representative, Bart Ramakers. As I was discussing my ideas for a bag line, he asked, "Can you prepare a collection in six weeks?"

Two months later, I launched the brand. I showcased a sample collection and invited international top buyers, hoping someone would take a chance on my designs. The next day, I received a call from Bart saying, "You might not believe it, but everyone wants to buy."

The reason I started with bags was that I felt there were very few brands offering balanced bags that are both refined yet bold in design. I became interested in and enjoyed creating an exquisite balance of extremely feminine yet clean, genderless designs. The bags also possess sculptural elements, which attracted me.

Presented the new collection through an immersive installation created alongside artists, where the organic lines of the pieces designed by STUDIO FABIUS CLOVIS resonate with the works of "Wandler"

What was the most important lesson you learned from your career before establishing your brand?

While working as a designer for other brands, I learned about merchandising collections, building a healthy profit margin, designing the entire collection, and collaborating closely with the sales team. This also helped with researching materials and manufacturers, preparing me fully to launch “Wandler.” How do you express the aesthetics of “Wandler”?

“Wandler” embodies modern femininity, with designs that combine functionality and elegance, crafted to enhance women’s styles. The Dutch bicycle culture naturally reflects functionality in my designs as a Dutch person.

“Wandler” features dynamic color use that is both elegant and vibrant. Colors play a very important role in my collection design, and I continuously pursue and challenge myself to achieve a remarkably feminine yet clean genderless balance each time.

The presentation venue invites a connection with nature through a moss landscape design by Amsterdam-based flower studio Rae Blooms

What was the most challenging aspect in the 7 years since establishment?

The pandemic was a difficult time for many businesses. Transparency and communication were key to overcoming it. At the beginning of the pandemic, it was challenging to adapt to the new normal, but thanks to intuitive design and direction, "Wandler" continued to evolve and further develop its brand.

It was an extremely tough time for a brand that had only been established for three years, but during that period, I felt like I was undergoing special training in "brand building and crisis management." Overcoming this as a team made me feel very empowered, giving me the confidence that we can tackle any future challenges.

The "Hortensia" bag features a rounded shape with trapeze details. As a new addition, a nature-inspired green with crocodile embossing has been introduced.

Can you also tell us about the creation process? What inspires you, and how does the team approach production?

My design approach is very intuitive. When creating a collection, I focus on a visual approach rather than drawing on a blank canvas. I am drawn to the sculptural nature of accessories, and the process begins with folding shapes from paper and using a sewing machine to create a frame.

Regardless of market needs or gaps in the collection, I start with what I feel most at that moment. However, as the team grows, we cannot rely solely on intuition, so I aim to clearly define the pillars of the brand and provide a clear direction to the world of "Wandler." Fortunately, I have grown alongside an amazing team that embodies the design aesthetics in their respective departments.

Delivering Dutch DNA to the Japanese Market

It seems that the market is expanding mainly in Europe, and there are also more retail outlets in Japan. What image do you have of the Japanese market?

Of course, each market has its differences, and it is not the same in every country or culture. However, thanks to the internet and Instagram, we feel connected, and while we see the same fashion, we incorporate it in different ways.

In the early days, there was a demand for large tote bags in Europe, while in the Asian market, my brand was considered “too Scandinavian,” with claims that there was no demand for small bags. However, by combining our color palette, the architectural shapes of our bags, and the craftsmanship and quality of Italy, I see great potential in the Japanese market.

The design aesthetics regarding craftsmanship in the Japanese market resonate closely with my sensibility. Everything is made with care and luxury, using the best materials and people. This is something I emphasize in my design and production processes. True craftsmanship and expertise with leather are essential.

Additionally, at "Wandler," we strive for designs that speak for themselves. The Japanese market is very stylish for both women and men, seeking beauty and knowing what they want, making it a very attractive opportunity for further growth.

The model "Penelope," which can be used as both a handbag and shoulder bag thanks to adjustable straps. It offers a wide range of materials and color variations as one of the signatures.

Please share your vision for the future.

Recently, we held a pop-up at Isetan, and for the first time introduced the world of "Wandler" to Japanese customers. Collaborating with floral artist Norihiko Kamei, we utilized our Dutch roots and created a space in partnership with Dutch interior designers like Pepijn Clovis Studio and Piet Hein Eek.

Moving forward, I hope to expand the world of "Wandler" through physical stores and shop-in-shop concepts, delivering Dutch DNA to the Japanese market.

Header Caption: The "Hortensia" bag, also a signature of Wandler.

Text by ELIE INOUE