Articles

The Reason Why the ANATOMICA "618 Original," Dubbed "the Jeans that Suit Alden the Best," Captivates Fashion Enthusiasts

2025.03.26

During the gold rush of 19th century California, jeans were created for workers in the mines. Over the course of about a century, these work pants evolved into a coveted fashion item.

In this transformation, the contributions of "ANATOMICA"'s 618 Original have been significant.

Since its release in 2007, the silhouette with its golden ratio and meticulously crafted details have continued to allure style enthusiasts. This pair of jeans, balancing ruggedness and elegance, is said to be irresistible once worn.

Jun Nobuoka from 35summers co., ltd. tells the story behind the birth of the 618 Original.

PROFILE

Jun Nobuoka

35summers Press

At 35summers, responsible for PR for brands like "ANATOMICA," "Rocky Mountain Featherbed," "WAKOUWA," and "BIG YANK." The company has partnered with Anatomica, engaging in production and both wholesale and retail sales globally.

The Brand's Origins Lie in a Charismatic Shop in Paris

What sparked the creation of this model?

The 618 Original was born from the meeting of two men.

One of them is Pierre Fournier.

After building his reputation as a buyer for the trailblazing modern select shop "GLOBE" in the Paris Réaumur district, and "HEMISPHERE" in the 16th arrondissement, he opened "ANATOMICA" in the 4th arrondissement in 1994.

With a unique vision, he focused on originality that can only be produced in specific regions and cultures, establishing himself as a legendary figure in the apparel industry.

Another key person is Kinji Teramoto, our president.

In 1989, Teramoto founded 35summers, producing Rocky Mountain Featherbed and BIG YANK, while also working as a designer for ANATOMICA.

He is well-known as a vintage collector, possessing knowledge that parallels Pierre's expertise.

A single pair of denim pants connected two style aficionados

How did the two meet?

In 2006, when exhibiting Rocky Mountain Featherbed at a joint exhibition in Paris, Teramoto visited Pierre. At that time, Pierre noticed the pants Teramoto was wearing and remarked, "That looks interesting."

The pants were from the brand "Der SAMMLER" that Teramoto crafted, inspired by U.S. Navy work pants, and featured no side seams.

During that period, Pierre was focused on curating "ANATOMICA" and was looking into forgotten European vintage pieces, which perhaps led him to overlook American vintage items.

It seems that the jeans had a profound impact on him, as he proposed, "Why not try making jeans for ANATOMICA?"

It was a collaboration between Pierre and Teramoto. How did the development process unfold?

Teramoto provided samples for Pierre to check and modify. Pierre, referring to himself as the “Devil of Detail,” requested adjustments to stitching positions and patterns down to the millimeter.

Countless sample revisions were made, and there were times I thought, "It might be difficult to commercialize this..."

However, for Teramoto, Pierre had always been an object of admiration since his youth.

So, both staff and the factory side proceeded without compromise, continually meeting his requests. It took about 15 months to complete, but the result was a pair of jeans like none seen before.

Pierre recalled that they received orders for 600 pairs just from the Paris ANATOMICA.

The Model Name Stems from the Golden Ratio Born in Ancient Greece

Did Pierre name the model?

As completion approached, the two discussed and made a decision. Pierre aimed for a silhouette that mirrored the beauty of the golden ratio in crafting this model.

The golden ratio is something that can be seen in the Parthenon and pyramids, and it is based on the approximation of 1:1.618.

"618 Original," 31,900 yen (tax included)

There are no seams on both sides, are there?

This is the model's most distinctive feature. It is a detail derived from Teramoto's denim pants that caught Pierre's eye, and the absence of side seams makes the leg line appear sharper and emphasizes a straight silhouette.

Of course, since the seams do not touch the skin, it also contributes to great comfort when worn.

A Deep Rise Slim Straight that Embodies Pierre's Classic Style

What are the silhouette characteristics?

Overall, it is a slim straight with a deeper rise. It strikes a perfect balance between being not too wide and not too narrow, achieving a unique blend of ruggedness and elegance.

Is the denim fabric original?

Yes, we are using a 16-ounce fabric developed specifically for this model.

The focus on left-hand twill is a tribute to vintage jeans.

Additionally, the thread used for the stitching is made of a special yarn, with a core made of polyester coated in cotton.

This unique thread combines the great feel of cotton yarn with the strength distinctive to polyester yarn.

You can feel the commitment to details.

The leather patch designed with the brand's initials has a vertical to horizontal ratio that follows the golden ratio.

While leather tends to shrink or discolor with washing and drying, the patch for this model has been pre-washed to minimize shrinkage and color change as much as possible.

The back pocket features hidden rivets, reminiscent of vintage jeans from the 1930s to 1960s.

Back in the day when sewing machines couldn’t fix pockets with bar tacks, back pockets were secured with rivets.

This method was called such because it was carefully covered to prevent the rivets from injuring the saddle when riding a horse. Over time, the impressions of the rivets become visible.

While it’s not easily noticeable, there is a tag sewn inside the back pocket called a union ticket, which was meant to prove membership in labor unions and similar organizations back then.

Referred to as "the Jeans that Suit Alden the Best"

What styling do you recommend?

While it's nice to wear them casually with T-shirts or sweatshirts, they also pair well with more formal styles like jackets or blazers.

Leather shoes are particularly recommended to complement this design.

Especially since Pierre had a custom order made for Alden's modified last at a store in Paris, this model has been featured in fashion magazines as “the jeans that suit Alden the best” since its launch.

A rugged yet refined pair of jeans certainly matches well with traditional footwear.

What does this jeans mean for ANATOMICA?

I believe that from the silhouette to the fabric and details, this is one of ANATOMICA's masterpieces, encapsulating Pierre's and Teramoto's aesthetic sense.

Thanks to this jeans, ANATOMICA and 35summers formed a partnership and produced various hit items. In that sense, this jeans is a commemorative piece.

As a side note, both Pierre and Teramoto have a waist size of 33. Therefore, when developing this model, Teramoto tried on the sample made in Japan for adjustments, which Pierre then tried on in Paris. It’s an episode that illustrates their bond, isn’t it?

Even 18 years after its release, the model shows no sign of aging, demonstrating its high level of completeness. The ANATOMICA "618 Original" with its golden ratio transcends time and trends.

Text by Ryota Osujo