When It Comes to Horsehide Leather Jackets, "Aero Leather" Is Synonymous with High Quality

Leather jackets are tough and meant to be worn for years, so quality matters. That's why I recommend "Aero Leather," a London-based brand made from horsehide. With a history of about 50 years, it is known as the first brand to create leather jackets using horsehide.

In this article, I interviewed Hiroshi Tsuchiya, Director of Aero Leather Clothing Japan, about the brand’s history, its classic items, and insights on horsehide.

The Founder was a Famous Designer with Clients like The Beatles & Elton John

"Aero Leather Clothing Ltd. was founded in London in 1975. The founder, Ken Calder, had been active as a designer since the early 1960s, with clients including The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Elton John, Jimi Hendrix, and many other prominent artists of the decade. He was already a well-known designer back then.

"In 1975, Ken opened The Thrift Shop in London, where he remade and sold second-hand USA military leather jackets like 'Type A-2,' which became a massive hit. Following that success, he began creating original leather jackets, marking the roots of Aero Leather around 1981."

Leather Jackets Made with the Finest Horsehide in the World

After starting the production of leather jackets, Ken created the world's first leather jacket made from horsehide in 1986. This laid the foundation for the image of "Aero Leather as horsehide" that exists today.

Now, let's dive into the keyword "horsehide" and the craftsmanship of Aero Leather.

"The horsehide used by Aero Leather is globally renowned, and is created by the century-old tanner ‘HORWEEN LEATHER CO.’ using its proprietary tanning method 'CHROMEXCEL®.' The leather, known as 'FQHH (Front Quarter Horsehide),' is of the highest quality worldwide and is celebrated for its unique character and exceptional aging."

"Moreover, the manufacturing process at Aero Leather involves meticulous leather selection and hand-cutting of leather and lining by skilled craftsmen. Each jacket is sewn in its entirety by a single seamster. Following this, a quality manager inspects the jacket in up to 28 areas, and only those that pass are shipped.

"This approach ensures that mass production is not an option, and prioritizes quality above all. Each craftsman takes pride in the products they create."

Now, I want to showcase three standout leather jackets made from horsehide from the impressive lineup at Aero Leather. Let's start with the previously mentioned "USAF Type A-2."

"Approximately 700,000 units were produced from 1931 to 1943, making the 'USAF Type A-2' one of the most significant and influential jackets of the 20th century.

"Aero Leather Japan particularly focuses on the original 'Contract No. 38-1711P' early model, which epitomizes the authentic A-2 style.

"The design features a tab collar that was used until 1941, complete with hand-stitched collar hooks and top stitching on the cuffs and waist. This replicates a specification seen only until 1938, and the zipper detail is finished with a pin-lock style."

2 Classic Motorcycle Jackets

Next up, let's look at double motorcycle jackets.

The origin of the double motorcycle jacket is generally believed to trace back to the 1920s when the bottoms of military trench coats were cut off and riders mounted military bikes. By the 1950s, motorcycle jackets became leather, a must-have for bikers and a wildly popular fashion item among young non-bikers.

Among many models, I’d like to introduce the classic "Vincent."

"This 'Vincent' model refines the classic design that can be deemed vintage while incorporating modern tastes. The horizontal chest pocket and distinctive D pocket exude a classic vibe. The design is fundamentally simple, intentionally omitting epaulettes, action pleats on the back, and belts."

Lastly, let me introduce another classic item, the "Bootlegger STF."

This model is a collaborative creation between Aero Leather Japan and Aero Leather Scotland.

"This model transforms a cropped military trench coat, maintaining its military essence, into a motorcycle jacket known as 'Bootlegger.' It features a simple and subtly fashionable design without any flashy embellishments.

"Furthermore, 'Bootlegger STF' is the 'STF (Super Tight Fit)' version of this Bootlegger. It offers a refined, streamlined silhouette and feel, making it an item suitable for an urban and cool vibe."

The Perfect Location: Aero Leather Japan

Aero Leather Japan is located by Megami Lake in Tateshina, at an elevation of 1,550m. The large wooden building stands out in its setting. I asked about the choice to base operations in this area away from the city.

"Aero Leather Japan was established in 2008. I had lived abroad for about 15 years, primarily in London. As I was planning my return to Japan, the idea of founding Aero Leather Japan came together; however, after returning, I had no option to live in a small property in Tokyo and instead discovered this place.

"The building is designed to resemble a corner of a typical American warehouse district, akin to a storage facility or garage. It evokes an atmosphere where you might imagine driving in with an American car to find sofas, beds, and a refrigerator—all while a wood stove is present, and inside the building is a 'Hakosuka GTR' surrounded by Aero Leather's leather jackets, creating a unique space.

"Access from Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka is excellent: it’s a 40-minute drive to Sakudaira Station, and from there, it’s one hour by bullet train to Tokyo."

Aero Leather Japan has established a direct line of communication with each employee, including Ken, the founder of Aero Leather Clothing Ltd., in the home country.

This setup is designed not only to convey the quality of Aero Leather products but also to enhance the environment for made-to-order items, repairs, and aftercare, ensuring the provision of a "genuine lifetime leather jacket."

Up to this point, I have learned about the brand's history, its commitment to horsehide, and the items with deep roots. If you’re looking for a high-quality jacket, I would recommend the leather jackets from Aero Leather, crafted from the world’s finest horsehide.