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The Untold Origin Story of the 'Air Jordan 3': Born From a Groundbreaking Collaboration with a Genius Designer
Released in 1988, three years after the smash hit 'Air Jordan 1,' the 'Air Jordan 3' also marked the first collaboration with legendary designer Tinker Hatfield. To uncover the secret origin story of one of the most beloved models in the series, its unique charm, and how it achieved such immense popularity and influenced the sneaker industry for years to come, we talked to Katsushige Kamamoto, the owner of the K-SKIT sneaker shop.
The Genius of Designer Tinker Hatfield
The 'Air Jordan 3,' released in 1988, was the first model helmed by the man who would later be hailed as a design prodigy. Its development, however, is packed with intriguing behind-the-scenes drama. Kamamoto sheds some light on the situation.
"I saw it in an interview with Tinker Hatfield, but apparently, Michael Jordan himself wasn't thrilled about continuing the Jordan line. He wasn't a fan of the high-top design, and the Italian leather used was too stiff, taking a long time to break in."
"On top of that, he had broken his foot while wearing the 'Air Jordan 1,' so he was seriously considering jumping ship to Nike's rival, Adidas."
As if to prove his discontent, Jordan showed up four hours late to the initial development meeting for the 'Air Jordan 3.' But in that tense, uncertain atmosphere, it was Tinker Hatfield's ingenuity that saved the day. Kamamoto continues the story.
"The 'Air Jordan 3' was originally supposed to be designed by Peter Moore, the man behind the 'Air Jordan 1.' But when he left for Adidas, the project was suddenly handed to Tinker Hatfield, who had been his protégé."
"The 'Jumpman' logo, which made its grand debut on the 'Air Jordan 3,' was something Tinker Hatfield designed himself after seeing a sketch Peter Moore had drawn of a Michael Jordan dunk."
As it turns out, Hatfield added the Jumpman logo on his own authority. Furthermore, while the initial meeting was only supposed to feature design sketches, Hatfield went a step further and brought a physical prototype. Jordan, who had arrived in a foul mood, reportedly left with a smile on his face after seeing it.
It's no exaggeration to say that Tinker Hatfield's brilliant move single-handedly saved the Air Jordan line from extinction.
Phil Knight: "The Air Jordan 3 Saved Nike"
Kamamoto shares more behind-the-scenes details about the 'Air Jordan 3.'"A key reason Michael Jordan fell in love with the 'Air Jordan 3' was its mid-cut silhouette. Essentially, the 'Air Jordan 3' can be considered the very first mid-cut basketball shoe."
"Michael Jordan wanted to wear a fresh pair of shoes for every game and hated the stiff Italian leather that took so long to break in. So, the 'Air Jordan 3' was made with tumbled leather. Of course, this was to meet Jordan's request for a softer material, but it was also a necessary change to allow for the embossing of the elephant print, a signature design feature of the 'Air Jordan 3'."
While adding graphic patterns to athletic shoes is standard practice today, it was a groundbreaking concept back then. Jordan himself was a huge fan of the print, which was another reason he left the meeting so pleased.
This is yet another testament to Tinker Hatfield's design genius. Kamamoto wraps up the origin story:
"In an interview, Hatfield recalled that even Nike's president at the time, Phil Knight, told him, 'The Air Jordan 3 saved Nike.'"
"He also revealed that the Swoosh on the side of the upper—which was missing from the 'Air Jordan 2'—was originally part of the design, but Hatfield decided to remove it on his own. He said that since the Jumpman logo was on the tongue, he put 'NIKE AIR' on the heel as a substitute."
Michael Jordan originally wanted to sign with Adidas. The game-changer that flipped his decision was undoubtedly the sheer perfection of the Air Jordan 3. The reason Jordan didn't jump ship to another brand was this masterpiece crafted by a genius.
The Air Jordan 3 was, in essence, the savior that Nike desperately needed.
An Unparalleled Icon in Sneaker History
Despite this legendary backstory, the Air Jordan 3 wasn't actually a huge hit in Japan. When it was re-released in 1994, sales were sluggish, and it quickly hit the sale racks. Kamamoto recalls that even with the re-releases in the 2000s, they were a common sight at outlet stores. However, he also shared his thoughts on the immense impact the shoe later had on the sneaker industry.
"While it might not have been a smash hit in Japan, in its U.S. homeland, the Air Jordan 3 launched alongside an apparel line for the Air Jordan series that prominently featured the Jumpman logo. This move won over the hip-hop artists of the day."
"You can see that frenzy on album covers from the era. The ad campaigns at the time featured director Spike Lee, whose Jordan-obsessed character 'MARS BLACKMON' from his own film 'SHE'S GOTTA HAVE IT' became a massive sensation in the commercials."
"Thanks to its groundbreaking design—like the elephant print and the first-ever mid-cut silhouette—it's safe to say the shoe blew up in America once it was embraced as a true fashion statement."
In Japan, the Air Jordan 1 is typically seen as the go-to fashion sneaker, but in the U.S., the launch of the apparel line helped the Air Jordan 3 explode in popularity, pulling in the entire street culture scene.
Finally, when we asked Kamamoto about the allure of the Air Jordan 3, he told us this:
"I played basketball in high school myself, so I was completely obsessed with Michael Jordan. I even had a poster of him nailing that perfect 50-point dunk in the 1988 NBA All-Star Dunk Contest. Naturally, I dreamed of wearing the same shoes he had on his feet.
"So, the 'White/Cement' colorway he wore during that legendary dunk is one of my all-time favorite Air Jordan 3s. When you really think about it, from introducing the Jumpman logo to slapping a bold pattern on a performance shoe, it was a sneaker that completely changed the game by injecting so many new ideas."
"When you talk about the history and magic of sneakers, nothing comes close. The Air Jordan 3 is the first model that I think of, hands down."
For a sneaker connoisseur like Kamamoto to speak so highly of the Air Jordan 3 says it all. It's even rumored that an original 1988 pair was auctioned off for approximately 162 million yen. Its impact on the sneaker industry is immeasurable, but it's no exaggeration to say that for Nike, this shoe was priceless.
PROFILE
Katsushige Kamamoto
Founder of SKIT
Born in Aomori Prefecture in 1978. After graduating from high school, he moved to Tokyo, where he honed his skills working in sneaker shops before opening the first SKIT location in Kichijoji in 2001. Thanks to his vast sneaker knowledge and an industry-leading eye for quality, his shop is a magnet for sneaker enthusiasts. He even appeared in the film "スニーカーヘッズ," and his moves are closely watched by sneakerheads around the world. SKIT now has locations in Osaka, Sendai, and Fukuoka, in addition to the original Kichijoji store.
Special Thanks for Photography
Sneaker Shop SKIT Tokyo-Kichijoji
Address: D-ASSET Kichijoji 1F, 1-18-1 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo
Phone: 0422-47-6671
Hours: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM
https://www.k-skit.com/
Photo by Hiroyuki "Lily" Suzuki (STUDIO LOG)
Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)
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