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Forging Authentic Japanese Cuisine in Paris: Yuichiro Akiyoshi, a Cultural Bridge Through Cha-Kaiseki
Chakaiseki Akiyoshi, a Michelin-starred Cha-kaiseki restaurant in Paris. Its owner-chef, Yuichiro Akiyoshi, continues his new challenge in the cultural hub of Paris, armed with traditional Japanese cuisine.
Cha-kaiseki refers to the meal served during a "Chaji," a formal tea gathering. Its worldview, where the spirit of the tea ceremony resides in everything from the cuisine and space to the tableware and conduct, breathes with the new potential for Japanese cuisine discovered at the intersection of different cultures. We trace the trajectory of his sincere desire to "convey what is authentic" and his resolve to act as a "bridge" connecting cultures.
PROFILE
Yuichiro Akiyoshi
Born in 1984 in Iizuka City, Fukuoka Prefecture. He trained for 10 years at Hyotei in Kyoto. He later became the executive chef at the official residence of the Japanese Ambassador to the OECD in Paris, serving Japanese cuisine for three years. After returning to Japan, he opened a limited-time Japanese restaurant at AIC Akitsushima Kyoto. He has also worked as a limited-time head chef at luxury ryokans and traveled throughout Japan as a private chef. During this time, he established Wabi Inc. and founded the ramen restaurant Tanrei Ramen Meikyo Shisui in Fukuoka. After the COVID-19 pandemic, he opened Chakaiseki Akiyoshi in Paris, France.
At the Crossroads of Tradition & Innovation—The Starting Point of Chakaiseki Akiyoshi
Born in Iizuka City, Fukuoka, Akiyoshi was naturally drawn to the world of cooking, influenced by his father who was a chef.
"My family ran a farm, but my father didn't take over the family business and became a chef instead. We had plenty of vegetables at home, and I enjoyed making simple dishes like fried rice and omelets for my friends. I naturally thought that being a chef wouldn't be a bad path.
“At 18, through my father's introduction, I got the opportunity to train at the long-established Kyoto restaurant 'Hyotei.' I knew nothing about Cha-kaiseki until then, but everything I saw, touched, and experienced there was a new world for me. It was fascinating and stimulating. “The tableware, fish, vegetables, buildings, people—everything was filled with wonder, and I feel I was able to absorb so much."
After 10 years of training at Hyotei, Akiyoshi moved to France and served as the executive chef at the official residence of the Japanese Ambassador to the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development) in Paris for three years. During that time, as he visited various restaurants across Europe, he began to feel a sense of incongruity.
"There were hardly any restaurants serving authentic kaiseki or Japanese cuisine. Paris has many Japanese restaurants, but most are run by non-Japanese people. As a Japanese person, I felt a sense of dissonance seeing local people recognizing this as Japanese food and happily eating it. That's when I decided to open a restaurant here, to create a place where people could experience authentic Japanese cuisine and to properly convey and enhance the value of Japanese culture."
Reconstructing the "Authentic Japanese Cuisine" Experience in Paris
In 2022, he opened Chakaiseki Akiyoshi on Rue Letellier in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. The restaurant's interior, designed to resemble a traditional Japanese tea room, was crafted by Japanese artisans. The bold use of wood on its facade makes it stand out distinctly on the Parisian streetscape.
"People who pass by the front of the restaurant all look at it with an expression that says, 'What is this place?' When they open the door and step inside, many customers say, 'It feels like we've been teleported to Japan.' This space is not just a place to eat Japanese food; it's for them to experience Japan itself. It plays a crucial role in enhancing their immersion in the meal. The design took about two years, and we revised the plan many times."
To stay true to the essence of Cha-kaiseki, Akiyoshi also pays meticulous attention to his choice of ingredients.
"My cuisine is basically composed of only fish and vegetables. Japan is a country where some of the world's finest ingredients gather, and its distribution system is a major strength. However, it's extremely difficult to find the same quality abroad, especially for fresh fish.
“Over the past two years, after trying various ingredients, I've finally narrowed down what I can serve to customers in good condition. Since live fish is almost unavailable in France, I apply techniques like “Kombujime” (curing with kombu seaweed) or “Sujime” (marinating in vinegar). I make various adjustments, such as selecting white fish that pairs well with these methods or using high-quality tuna that has been flash-frozen at minus 60 degrees Celsius. The cooking methods often require a different approach from what I would use in Japan, depending on the fish.
As for vegetables, I try to express Japanese cuisine using local produce as much as possible. French vegetables often have less water, a stronger flavor, and a firmer texture. So, for white asparagus, for example, instead of cooking it until soft as in French cuisine, I adjust the cooking time to leave a slight texture. Just by doing that, some customers are surprised, saying, 'I've never had asparagus like this.'"
The tableware is also changed to match the menu, and for glassware, he uses crystal dishes found at local flea markets, achieving a fusion of Parisian locality and Japanese culture. This aesthetic, he says, is imbued with the spirit of the tea ceremony and flower arrangement he learned during his training in Kyoto.
"I have been practicing the tea ceremony in particular for over 20 years since I was 18, and it has been instrumental in incorporating the spirit of Cha-kaiseki into my restaurant. The restaurant's decor and my choice of tools and tableware are all influenced by the tea ceremony.
“I avoid flashy presentations and prefer things to be simple and understated. I value presentation and tableware that are austere yet have a sense of richness. I believe that is the spirit of 'wabi-sabi' in the tea ceremony and the essence of Japanese cuisine."
Cultural Exchange Through Food & Future Prospects
In 2024, Chakaiseki Akiyoshi was awarded one Michelin star. This recognition, he says, had a significant impact on the restaurant's operations."Receiving the star certainly changed how customers see us. The number of guests who book with confidence has increased, which has greatly contributed to our visibility.
“Most importantly, the increase in customers improved our ingredient turnover and reduced waste. This has enabled us to always source fresh ingredients, creating a virtuous cycle where we can offer even better quality to our guests. I feel like it has become easier to do what I want to do."
Akiyoshi says his ideal form of cultural exchange is to one day build a tea room in the suburbs of Paris and hold tea ceremonies there. Finally, we asked for his message to young Japanese chefs.
"Since coming to France, I have once again realized what a wonderful country Japan is. I miss Japan, and I always want to engage more with its culture. And there are so many foreigners who wish to experience Japan's wonderful culture. From an overseas perspective, we who were born and raised in Japan are enviable.
“If you have the desire to take on a challenge abroad, I urge you to do so with 'preparation' and, above all, 'resolve.' Language skills are a must, but it's also important to study your own culture so you can talk about it. If someone asks, 'What is Japan like?' and you can't answer, it can kill the mood. And the most important thing is to have a strong, unyielding spirit to see things through no matter what.
“Of course, there are language barriers, but overcoming them helps you grow as a person. And by going abroad, you should be able to feel a stronger sense of awareness and identity as a Japanese person."
Akiyoshi's endeavor is more than just running a restaurant. It is a cultural enterprise that embodies the "resolve" and "awareness of being Japanese" required of those who forge a path overseas, continually questioning the essential value of Japan within a different culture.
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