Articles
The New Perspectives Created by "Authen" Denim Fabric
The brand "Authen" started in 2022.
This brand was founded by Takumi Maemura, who was the first Japanese designer to work at Levi's® headquarters in San Francisco. The brand releases high-sense items integrating the experience and design work he has cultivated with environmentally conscious manufacturing and the craftsmanship of Japanese denim processing.
This time, we spoke with Maemura to delve deeper into the glamour of Authen. To begin, we would like to learn about Maemura's roots and some basic information about the brand.
"I joined Levi's® around 2006, working in Japan, China, and at the San Francisco headquarters, where I was in charge of design. After many years, I decided to return to Japan to pursue something new and started Authen.
"Authen is a casual brand centered around denim. We ask a very skilled company called 'SAAB,' with whom I have had a connection since my previous job, to handle the production and processing of denim products."
3 Elements of Sustainability
One of Authen's characteristics is the desire to promote sustainability through denim. The brand is organized around three elements. Let's explore them in detail."When I was working in America, there were initiatives for sustainability quite early on. I have reflected what I learned there into Authen, creating three components: 'ESSENTIALS,' 'UPCYCLING,' and 'RECOLOR.'
"ESSENTIALS includes staple items and seasonal releases made with recycled denim.
"UPCYCLING involves creating items using materials from used clothes and factory waste in an upcycling approach, while the last element, RECOLOR, offers a service that reprocesses vintage clothing.
"This service dyes worn and faded clothes back to black and indigo. I thought there might be people who would appreciate such a service based on my own experiences of having my old clothes dyed. Authen is centered around these three axes."
Authen's Signature 5-Pocket Denim
Next, I would like to discuss the products. Let's look at two types of 5-pocket denim that have become signature models from the ESSENTIALS line."As staple items, we have two fits of 5-pocket denim made with selvedge denim.
"The first fit is called 'Vintage Straight Leg Denim,' which features a silhouette that, without much difference in measurement between the knee and hem, appears slightly bootcut.
"The processing emphasizes the details while achieving a subtly used feel that does not overpower in outfits."
"The second fit is the 'Vintage Wide Leg Denim.'
"This draws inspiration from logger pants of the 1950s, featuring a silhouette that is wide and drops straight from the knee to the hem.
"While the material and processing evoke vintage vibes, I aimed for a modern approach to the fit, resulting in an item that balances authenticity and designer brand qualities."
An Engineer Jacket with Vintage Character & Modern Silhouette
After showcasing the classic 5-pocket denim, let's introduce one seasonal item."I would like to present the 'Vintage Denim Engineer Jacket,' which is designed to pair with the aforementioned Vintage Wide Leg Denim. It is a short-length engineer jacket based on details from the 1950s, adjusted to a modern fit.
"The item features vintage processing reminiscent of sun-faded used clothing."
Right image: Set up with Vintage Wide Leg Denim
Deconstructing 5 Denims to Create One
Another aspect of Authen is UPCYCLING. Let’s introduce some items that have been upcycled from vintage or factory-discarded denim products, now given new life."A representative item is the 'Upcycle Denim Tapered Leg.'
"It is said that about 5 percent of B-grade items can emerge in denim production due to fabric or color defects. This product is made by reusing that denim or deconstructing used denim pants. We take apart about five pairs of denim pants to create one product."
High-Level Processing Techniques
Several classic items were shown, but what’s striking is the processing technology. How is this high-level fading created?"To bring out the expression of items released by Authen, significant craftsmanship is required. I believe that the close communication with SAAB, as mentioned earlier, and the proximity with developers who give processing instructions are key factors."
The fit, which conveys both a tough impression and an elegant feel, along with the authentic-looking fading, reflects ideas that stem from a deep understanding of denim, as well as a superior level of processing technology.
The more I learn about it, the more I feel it's a unique brand like no other. I want to continue keeping an eye on Authen in the future.
PROFILE
Takumi Maemura
President of Lafoem Co., Ltd.
Creative Director of Authen
Launched Authen, their first brand, in the 2022 season. Having worked for many years at Levi's®, the creator of jeans, they have excelled as a designer in countries including Japan, China, and the United States. They were also the first Japanese designer to work at the San Francisco headquarters. Involved with iconic items like the 501, which has been loved worldwide for over 160 years, contributing to the brand's development. Currently, they also serve as director and consultant for major companies and brands.
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