Articles
Why Are Azabu Tailor’s 100% Wool "Order Washable Slacks" Machine Washable?
Over the past few years, slacks that you can toss in your home washing machine have been flying off the shelves. Most of them are crafted from shrink-resistant synthetic materials like polyester or wool-blend fabrics.
However, while these functional fabrics are indeed resistant to shrinking, many fashion enthusiasts still swear by the superior comfort and rich texture of 100% wool.
Slacks made from genuine wool that can be cleaned in a home washing machine—a dream come true. Azabu Tailor has turned this ideal into reality with their "Order Washable Slacks."
How did they manage to create such an innovative product? We sat down with the product developer to hear about the journey from concept to completion.
PROFILE
Atsushi Nakamura
Production Department Manager, Melbo Men's Wear Co., Ltd.
Director, Melbo Men's Clothing Industry Co., Ltd.
After working as a formalwear buyer, managing quality control, and launching the pattern order system at Aoyama Trading Co., Ltd., he was appointed as the Production Department Manager at Melbo Men's Wear Co., Ltd. (the parent company of Azabu Tailor) and as a Director at Melbo Men's Clothing Industry Co., Ltd., its manufacturing division, in 2022. While overseeing fabric planning and procurement, he is also dedicated to driving reforms in the production management system.
A Beloved Shop and Pioneer of Personal Order Suits
First, let’s introduce Azabu Tailor."Azabu Tailor is a pioneering fashion tailor shop, one of the first in Japan to introduce a clear and straightforward ordering system. With 28 stores nationwide, we offer personal order suits starting from 49,500 yen (including tax), all tailored at our own domestic factory. We also provide a wide range of other custom items, such as order-made shirts from 9,900 yen and order-made coats from 66,000 yen.
Our professional staff are well-versed in the latest trends, and we offer an extensive variety of fabrics and options. We can create your perfect garment, tailored not only to your size but also to your diverse lifestyle and individual taste."
In addition to imported materials, Azabu Tailor also develops and offers its own original fabrics. A prime example of this is the "World Traveler" collection, launched in 2005.
"This is a fabric collection designed for globetrotting business professionals, featuring materials with added functionalities like stretch, wrinkle resistance, and water repellency. Within that collection, we have the World Traveler Custom series, which focuses on high-performance 100% wool fabrics, and in 2024, we added a washable line that can be cleaned in a home washing machine. The 'Order Washable Slacks' are the star item of this new line."
Wool Shrinks When Washed!—A Challenge to Conventional Wisdom
"At the time, with summers getting hotter each year, the demand for washable suits and separates was on the rise. We were hearing from Azabu Tailor customers who wanted to 'wash their clothes at home'.However, the fabrics used in typical washable slacks are polyester-based. For Azabu Tailor, a brand dedicated to authentic suiting, we found the texture and feel of these materials to be lacking.
So, true to our identity as a brand that deals in authentic custom-made suits, we began development with the question: couldn't we achieve this with 100% wool?"
During development, the properties of wool proved to be a major hurdle.
"When wool gets wet, it undergoes a phenomenon called 'felting,' which causes it to swell up. The surface of the fibers has a scale-like structure, and when water, heat, or friction is applied, they entangle with each other. As a result, the fabric becomes hard, thickens, and the wool sheds. This is why 100% wool slacks have been notoriously tricky to care for."
This felting is also the reason why sweaters shrink and become stiff. In contrast, polyester fibers don't have these scales, so their surface is smooth and the fibers don't get tangled.
That's why 100% polyester or wool-polyester blends are so commonly used for typical washable slacks and suits.
The Secret to Washable Wool: A Special Anti-Shrink Process!
"Conventional anti-shrink treatments had the unfortunate drawback of making the fabric hard and giving it a rough texture because they use chlorine-based chemicals to shave off the scales on the fiber's surface. In contrast, with the method we adopted, we hit upon the idea of coating the scales with a resin, using no chlorine-based chemicals whatsoever.By applying this process while protecting the scales themselves, we succeeded in creating a fabric that could be machine-washed at home without sacrificing the signature softness and drape of wool.
Furthermore, after processing, we added our own unique washing step, which successfully brings out the fabric's suppleness and rich texture even more. As a result, we found that it is resistant to losing its shape and wrinkling, even after repeated washing. This is how we created a fabric that firmly retains the luster and feel unique to 100% wool."
The moment Nakamura touched the post-wash fabric, he was certain it would work. When they actually produced and tested a pair of slacks, they passed the test with flying colors on the first try. The production costs were not excessively high, and they were able to minimize the price difference compared to conventional products.
"Initially, we aimed to develop a jacket and slacks set. However, jackets require interfacing and shoulder pads, which greatly affect the silhouette and comfort. Creating a washable jacket with reliable interfacing is still a ways off. Therefore, we decided to commercialize the slacks first."
Trying them on, you can immediately tell that the fine texture and rich luster are exactly what you'd expect from a 100% wool fabric. The material feels supple and comfortable, with excellent breathability.
"We use a plain-weave fabric suitable for summer, so it's lightweight and highly breathable. The wool is Australian Merino, known for its top-tier quality in the world of textiles, and specifically, we use rare 17.5-micron fibers."
A micron is a unit indicating the fineness of a fiber, where one micron is 1/1000th of a millimeter. The finer the fiber, the more luxurious and smoother the material feels against the skin. At 17.5 microns, this is quite fine, which is classified as Superfine Wool and typically reserved for high-end suits and knitwear.
Making the Most of Wool's Properties as 'Nature's High-Tech Fabric'
"Fundamentally, wool is such a superior material that it's often called 'nature's high-tech fabric.' Its ability to repel liquid water while absorbing moisture vapor is a prime example. Wool quickly absorbs and releases perspiration, wicking away the moisture that can make you feel clammy, which helps you stay cool even in summer."Indeed, in addition to its water-repellent, moisture-absorbing, and moisture-releasing properties, wool is also naturally elastic and wrinkle-resistant.
"The raw wool fiber has a natural crimp, giving it a spring-like, accordion structure. When this structure is set in place with a process similar to perming hair, the resulting fabric gains a moderate stretch and a tendency to return to its original shape. This is what gives it its elasticity and wrinkle-recovery capabilities."
"Machine washing can sometimes cause the center crease to fade. But these slacks feature a special pleat-setting process to enhance shape retention, so the crease holds strong even after ten washes. You can skip the tedious task of ironing the crease back in every time you do laundry."
Clever design details have been incorporated even in less noticeable areas to boost comfort.
"The inside of the waistband features a unique two-tiered construction. We used a specially processed polyester yarn for the upper section and a mesh material for the lower section to achieve both excellent breathability and a soft touch against the skin."
The lining of the hip pockets is also made from a highly breathable, quick-drying mesh, ensuring a comfortable, non-sticky feel.
"The hip pockets are finished with a lockstitch, and by using a special sewing technique that pierces only the interlining below the waistband, we've achieved a balance between durability that can withstand washing and exceptional comfort."
Sales Jump 108% Year-Over-Year, Steadily Gaining Popularity
Since their launch, sales have steadily increased, exceeding 1,150 pairs sold between March and August 2025."Of course, they're a hit during the sweaty summer months, and with the heat lingering this year, I expect demand will remain strong. You can find plenty of washable slacks on the market, but almost all of them use polyester-based fabrics.
Customers are always surprised when we tell them the slacks are 100% wool. We also see a high rate of repeat customers, with many ordering two pairs at a time so they always have a fresh pair ready."
Another of Azabu Tailor's strengths is its personal ordering system, which guarantees a superior fit by allowing adjustments to every measurement, including the waist, hips, rise, inseam, thigh, knee, and hem width.
How can they be 100% wool and still be washable? The answer lies in a paradigm shift: processing the fabric itself, not just the yarn. By balancing the traditional texture of wool with the modern demand for easy care, these washable slacks have become the ideal garment for discerning business professionals.
Text by Ryota Osujo
How was the article?
Share
Related Articles
