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The Skilled Artisans from "Whitehouse Cox" All in One Place! Check Out the Bridle Leather Items of "Beorma Leather Company"

2025.02.04
Famous worldwide for their leather goods, "Whitehouse Cox" closed their factory at the end of 2022.
Afterwards, a new brand called "Beorma Leather Company" (hereafter: Beorma) was established by gathering the skilled staff that were essential to the operation.
The techniques and DNA of "Handmade in England," which have been continued for over 140 years, are richly inherited, releasing items in Walsall, a place known as a sacred ground for the British leather industry, adjacent to Birmingham, England.
I had the opportunity to speak with Soko Sato from Griffin International Ltd. about the appeal of Beorma, which is beginning to carve out a new history.
Beorma Leather Company, located in Walsall, England

A key individual initiated the start of Beorma

Beorma commenced in 2023, and there was reportedly a key individual driving its inception. Let's start with the story of how the brand was launched.
"There was a person named Alex Simpson, a British Army veteran who was fond of leather craft items. When the 147-year-old factory closed, he felt it was a shame for the traditional British techniques to end there and gathered about 25 craftsmen to establish Beorma. He continues to actively represent the brand today."
Alex Simpson, representative of Beorma Leather Company

Key to Know: "English Bridle Leather"

When discussing Beorma, it's essential to know about "English Bridle Leather."
"English Bridle Leather is made from cowhide and has historically been used as material for horse gear (bridle) and reins, hence the name of the leather derived from the horse gear nomenclature.
"This strong and durable leather features a smooth texture gentle on a horse's skin, produced by tanners within the UK. It’s finished by fully soaking high-quality vegetable-tanned leather with a special grease that blends natural animal fats and oils.
"Another characteristic is the white powdery film known as 'bloom' that forms on the surface; the oil that has penetrated the interior occasionally rises to the leather's surface, indicating that it is high-quality English Bridle Leather.
"As you start using it, the initially robust leather gradually softens and conforms to your hand over time, allowing you to enjoy the aging process of the leather."
When polished, the white bloom of English Bridle Leather reveals a beautiful luster

Beorma's Lineup Evolves while Inheriting Techniques & DNA

Now, let's delve into Beorma's product lineup.
While they offer a variety of products primarily in wallets, belts, and luggage, they have refined the items crafted by artisans with consistent quality since the Whitehouse Cox era. Let’s highlight some of their products.
"The signature item of Beorma is the '3 Fold Wallet,' which is a three-fold wallet. This has been a staple since the days of Whitehouse Cox and is released in a unique size specific to Beorma.
"Later, they also released the 'Original 3 Fold Wallet,' which features the size from the Whitehouse Cox era, and currently, two types are available."
The 3 Fold Wallet features a bill compartment, a large coin case, four card pockets, and three multi pockets
A glimpse of handmade production at Beorma's factory
Aging of the 3 Fold Wallet is visible in this photo; the one on the right has seen several years of use
S0007 3 Fold Wallet / Bridle Leather, 59,400 yen (tax included)
The Original 3 Fold Wallet includes a bill compartment, a large coin case, five card pockets, and three multi pockets, boasting exceptional capacity
S7660 Original 3 Fold Wallet / Bridle Leather, 66,000 yen (tax included)

The Bodleian Standing Tote Bag

There’s another item I would like to introduce that utilizes Beorma's English Bridle Leather. It’s an all-leather tote bag called “The Bodleian” that exudes a classic British atmosphere.
"I believe it's not an easy feat to prepare a piece made from the finest, blemish-free English Bridle Leather in a single layer, but that's achievable with the Beorma brand.
"With an exquisite size balance, it offers ample capacity for everyday use. The interiors feature a simple design with one pocket, and the unlined construction allows you to experience the texture of the bridle leather directly.
"The corners of the bottom are reinforced with overlapping leather, ensuring stability and self-supporting characteristics, making it endearingly known as the 'standing tote bag.'
"Moreover, what's distinctive is the use of Beorma's iconic mesh leather, intricately woven with cowhide handles. Like the wallet, this item gains character and beauty over time, so I hope you will use it for many years to come."
The Bodleian
A glimpse into the handmade craftsmanship of the wallet at Beorma's factory
L0017 The Bodleian / Bridle, 154,000 yen (tax included)

Mesh Belt that Conveys Handcrafted Heaviness

Lastly, I’d like you to know about another iconic item from Beorma, which is the mesh belt.
The thick and high-quality cowhide is carefully woven by artisans, resulting in a palpable sense of handcrafted heaviness.
"I would like you to take a look at three types of classic mesh belts. The standard herringbone woven 'Herringbone Plaited Belt' is finished with a belt width that is easy to use casually, featuring prominent details like a flat square buckle and a woven belt loop.
"Another is the 'Interlinked Plaited Belt,' which has its leather thickness exquisitely adjusted to match the narrow 25mm belt width, making it perfect for dress pants, and is finely woven down to the tip, allowing for unisex wear.
"Additionally, the 'Basket Weave Plaited Belt' features a distinctive buckle used in horse riding stirrups, characterized by a beautifully textured weave resembling a basket pattern.
"There are several traditional weaving methods, and these three are continuously crafted as staples at Beorma."
Each Beorma mesh belt is meticulously woven by artisans
P0009 34mm Herringbone Plaited Belt, 33,000 yen (tax included)
P0011 25mm Interlinked Plaited Belt, 33,000 yen (tax included)
P0058 28mm Basket Weave Plaited Belt, 33,000 yen (tax included)
Currently, we have a shop called FRAME Aoyama on Antique Street in Aoyama, Tokyo, serving as our flagship store. Together with FRAME Fukuoka, which opened earlier, it serves as a platform for communicating Beorma's presence in Japan.
Since leather items are meant to last for years, it’s important to choose quality materials, which enhance the joy of aging due to careful selection.
The Beorma brand meets all these expectations. I hope you experience the assured quality crafted by British leather artisans.
FRAME Aoyama: 5-12-2 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo

PROFILE

Soko Sato

Griffin International Inc.
Press

Joined Griffin International's directly-owned store “FRAME Fukuoka” where they've been conveying the skills and passion of craftspeople to customers. Later, they moved to the Tokyo headquarters to oversee general press activities.

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