Articles
Gathering Popular Outerwear from SANYO SHOKAI: Achieving True Darkness with Special Collection "BLACK OF BLACKs"
"Tetsu-guro (iron black)," "Kurotsurubami (black oak)," "Roiro (laquer black)"—when one simply says "black," there are actually numerous shades, with some sources claiming there are about 300.
In this profound world of black, SANYO SHOKAI aims for the blackest of blacks.
The collection unveiled for the 2024 autumn/winter season, " BLACK OF BLACKs," achieves a rich black by utilizing special threads and dyeing and processing techniques, and is a heartfelt collection incorporated into the outerwear of 10 major brands.
How did SANYO SHOKAI realize the "true black" they sought? Koji Shimasaki, who led this initiative, shares the full story.
PROFILE
Koji Shimasaki
Executive Officer, Business Headquarters, Business Department, Planning Division, SANYO SHOKAI Co., Ltd.
Ideas Born from the Product Development Committee
Black is one of the standard colors in modern fashion. What sparked this focus on the color?
SANYO SHOKAI has a company-wide project called the Product Development Committee aimed at creating products valued by the market.Regularly, brand managers gather fabric and product samples for planning meetings, and every brand has at least once focused on black.
However, black encompasses a variety of shades, from bluish to reddish tones. Questioning the nature of "true black" led to the decision to pursue the "true black among black," giving rise to the "BLACK OF BLACKs" collection.
Is the type of black determined by its depth?
The International Commission on Illumination defines a standard called Lab, which includes a numerical value for brightness known as "L value." This is measured by a color difference meter and represents the brightness of ground powder; black has an L value of 0, while white has 100.Typically, a value of around 18 to 20 is considered black, and below 17 is regarded as deep black. However, we achieved a much lower range of 14.5 to 16.1.
What challenges did you face in achieving the ideal black?
In recent fashion scenes, outerwear made from functional synthetic materials like nylon and polyester has garnered attention. However, unlike natural fibers such as cotton and wool, synthetic fibers are inherently difficult to dye in deep black due to their properties.To achieve an unprecedented true black, it was necessary to reconsider everything, from yarn selection to dyeing and processing techniques, and we needed collaboration from fiber manufacturers with specialized skills.
We reached out to various partners, but all said it was "difficult." Among them, the only company that responded with "It might be possible" was SEIREN Co., Ltd.
What kind of company is SEIREN?
SEIREN is a research and development-oriented global company headquartered in Fukui Prefecture. They engage in a wide range of businesses, including the production of upholstery fabric for car seats, material development for the electronics and healthcare sectors, and the design and manufacturing of ultra-small satellites.They are also heavily involved in fashion-related industries, developing functional innerwear and more.
3 Principles for Creating True Black
How did you achieve the deep black?
In the development of "BLACK OF BLACKs," we focused on the following three principles.(1) Selection of yarn that dyes darker
(2) Achieving deeper dyeing
(3) Creating the appearance of deeper black
We meticulously refined the selection, dyeing, and processing of the thread in three stages to achieve a true black that is even deeper than standard black.
You paid attention to the thread, didn't you?
Among synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester, which are difficult to dye, we carefully selected threads with properties that are easier to dye. At the same time, it's essential that the threads are compatible with the dyeing and processing methods used to achieve a deeper black.What innovations were made in dyeing the thread?
To enhance the depth of black, it’s necessary to use dyes that penetrate deep into the fibers. However, the easier it is for the dye to enter the fibers, the more likely it is for the dye to wash out or transfer, which raises concerns about fading or color bleeding.Thus, at "BLACK OF BLACKs," we opted for dyes that penetrate fibers with difficulty while simultaneously utilizing our unique dyeing techniques to enhance concentration. As a result, we achieved a rich color while maintaining excellent colorfastness to prevent fading and transfer.
Not only did we adjust the types of dyes and agents, but we also adapted the balance of quantities and processing temperatures through numerous adjustments.
What can be done to make it appear "blacker"?
What became crucial was a special processing technique known as deep dye processing.Humans recognize color by detecting the light reflected back through nerve cells in our eyes. Therefore, if we can reduce the amount of light reflected from the fabric, it can appear blacker. This is also why fabrics look darker when wet with water.
After dyeing, we applied a resin finishing process that creates a resin film on the surface of the fibers. By doing this, we reduced reflections and increased the light transmission rate through the fibers, allowing us to achieve a profound color effect.
It's surprising that you utilized the characteristics of human vision.
Moreover, since this is an outerwear collection, water resistance was an essential factor that couldn’t be compromised. After collaborating on prototypes with the factory, we decided to apply a laminate processing technique that bonds a film to the back of the fabric, thereby adding functionality such as moisture permeability and waterproofing to create special coats and outerwear.10 Major Brands Offering 10 Styles of Outerwear
It's truly a labor of love in fabric. Can you tell us more about the lineup?
The decision to showcase a lineup that transcends brand boundaries was made to emphasize the special quality of our unique black.The brands involved include MACKINTOSH LONDON, Paul Stuart, SANYOCOAT, LOVELESS, and others, making a total of ten brands. Each brand will present one style of outerwear.
There are five types of materials available. Broadly categorized, we have two types with the outer layer being nylon taslan and polyester taffeta, each with specifications of three-layer, two-layer, and one-layer structures.
These are all cornerstone brands of SANYO SHOKAI. The collective presence is even more impactful.
By concentrating solely on black outerwear, we were able to enhance the visual impact when displayed in stores.At the end of October last year, we showcased the entire collection across three stores: "LOVELESS Aoyama," "LOVELESS Newoman Yokohama," and "LOVELESS Tenjin" for about two weeks. Thanks to this, we caught the attention of many customers, allowing them to thoroughly examine the products. We also exhibited multiple brands in department store presentation areas to enhance our appeal.
All the fabrics not only present a rich black but also exude a sense of quality.
The black color that minimizes light reflection has a unique depth and an elegance that is surprising for synthetic fibers. It took about two years from conception to completion, but as a result, I believe it has turned out to be a shade unlike any other."BLACK OF BLACKs" embodies the aesthetic sense of SANYO SHOKAI and the expertise of SEIREN. If you're intrigued, I encourage you to visit the store and see the products for yourself. You will surely be captivated by the deeply alluring black.
Text by Ryota Osujo
How was the article?
Share
Related Articles
