Praised by Vintage Enthusiasts Worldwide! What Makes the Craftsmanship at "Blue Champion" So Renowned for Unending Restoration Orders?

The more important something is, the more it needs daily care.

Among the specialists who "bring items back to life" with their craftsmanship, "Blue Champion"—a denim repair shop based in Niigata City—captivates fans from all over.

Receiving restoration requests from both Japan and abroad, this rare specialty denim repair shop is fueling a quiet craze among vintage denim connoisseurs. Their delicate stitching and hardly noticeable repairs are said to be so immaculate that it’s impossible to tell where the mending began—truly a work of art. Among many remarkable feats, the restoration of torn-apart denim excavated from coal mines is a show-stopper, leaving observers breathless.

This time, we had the chance to speak with Kanae Kato, the artisan behind Blue Champion’s celebrated skills, about the roots and philosophy of her repair work.

Kato of Blue Champion started her career nearly 20 years ago at a vintage shop, beginning as a store staff member. Her journey into repairs began when she was entrusted with hemming customers' pants.

“I didn’t go to fashion school, and at first, I never imagined I’d be handling repairs. But when I gave it a try, it was incredibly fun. I just started repairing, day after day, completely self-taught”.

At the time, information was scarce and research online had its limits. That's why she made it a point to learn by physically handling vintage clothing and garments daily—absorbing sewing techniques and the feel of materials through hands-on experience.

“Washing and restoring denim found in coal mines—most people never get the chance to do that. It was an invaluable experience”.

Requests began to pour in not only from the shop but from private individuals as well. Riding this growing demand, Kato fulfilled her longtime dream and opened Blue Champion as an independent business.

Far Beyond Expectations—Long Lines on Opening Day

Blue Champion opened its doors in Niigata in August 2024. Contrary to Kato’s expectations, a line formed outside the shop from day one.

“Honestly, when I opened, I never imagined there’d be so many requests—I was expecting just a few customers from around Niigata Prefecture to drop by.

But even before opening, there were already two or three customers queuing, and more joining behind them. Plus, dozens of requests came in via direct message and email; I distinctly remember feeling completely overwhelmed (laughs).”

Now, the turnaround time has reached a staggering 18 months or more. But the constant stream of orders is a testament to the deep trust customers have in Kato’s skills.

An Obsession with Thread & Sewing Machines—The Foundation of Her Craft

This meticulous attention extends to the "thread" she uses as well.

“At Ujyo Bussan, a sewing thread manufacturer in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture, I custom-ordered three colors of thread specifically for denim repair.

I’m very particular about using 100% cotton thread. Most people use spun thread for denim repairs, since cotton thread is so rare and difficult to source nowadays. With more factories closing down and companies withdrawing from cotton thread production, demand has steadily declined.

Despite that, Ujyo Bussan continues to offer specialty thread for denim repair, as well as 100% cotton and denim stitch threads, which is such a huge help.”

Kato's attention to detail goes beyond just the "thread material". She brings her unique touch to the shades of thread and how she uses them as well.

"I use a sewing machine to adjust the colors. It's an extremely subtle difference, but denim isn't just one color—in order to repair it naturally, replicating the faded hues and gradations, I have to use many different threads.

Sometimes I layer a lighter color first, followed by a darker one, and other times I do the opposite—the order changes depending on the situation because denim fades in various ways.

To make features like whiskers and honeycombs, and the overall look of the denim blend in naturally, I mix a variety of thread colors, changing them often throughout the sewing process to create a nuanced gradation. I'm recreating the original look of the denim with both the sewing machine thread and the way I stitch it, so honestly, it feels almost like painting by machine."

At Blue Champion, denim repairs aren't done with just a single sewing machine. They make skillful use of a main machine, an embroidery machine, and a chain-stitching machine.

"This blue machine is a professional treadle machine by Singer—a vintage model made sometime between the 1950s and 1970s.

The name 'Blue Champion' displayed on the far right became the shop's namesake.

The main machine I use for my main repairs is the German-made 'PFAFF 2063'; it's great for darning repairs. I also use a Union Special for chain stitching.

The 'Union Special 43200G' is famous for hemming, but what I use is the '33700' model. It's useful because it's extremely versatile—you can use it not only for hems but also for all kinds of chain-stitching needs."

Orders Pouring In from Overseas: Connecting Through Denim Worldwide

Blue Champion receives requests from all over Japan, but in recent years, overseas orders have also been increasing.

"On Instagram, I posted before-and-after photos of denim restorations, and the response was huge. Vintage collectors, especially, often take notice.

Now, orders come from all over the world—France, the US, Hong Kong, Singapore, and beyond."

Even vintage denim enthusiasts across the globe can't help but be impressed by Kato's delicate expression and technique. It's not just repair work; her skill at conveying the subtle nuances of true denim hues is something only she can achieve.

Since Blue Champion opened last year, orders have been coming in one after another. Even with hardly a moment to catch her breath, the time Kato spends focused on her craft is pure bliss, because she loves repair work.

"Blue Champion is the kind of shop that gets requests for denim repairs that couldn't be done elsewhere, and I'd love for it to continue to be a place for those needs. Plus, there aren't many stores that achieve denim restorations to this extent, so I want to keep honing my expertise in this field.

From here on out, I want to keep facing each and every customer, performing careful, thorough repairs for them."

Many denim lovers entrust their "treasures" to Kato because she truly loves denim and puts her heart into every stitch.

It's a shop that truly convinces you—the wait for your finished piece is worth it. And that's right here in Niigata.