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How B.V.D., the American-Born Daily Wear Brand, Has Set the Standard for 150 Years
Mention the name 'B.V.D.', and for many in Japan, images of trunks, briefs, and undershirts likely come to mind. That’s no surprise, given that the American-born brand boasts a history of over 150 years globally and has been a staple in Japan for half a century.
In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into the long and storied history of B.V.D. and the background of the brand. We sat down with Itaru Kitami, the B.V.D. brand manager at Fujibo Apparel Co., Ltd.
The History of B.V.D.: Becoming an American Everyday Staple
We started by asking Kitami about B.V.D.'s 150-plus-year history.“B.V.D. was founded in 1876 in New York City. The brand and company name, ‘B.V.D.,’ comes from the initials of its three young founders: Bradley, Voorhees, and Day.
“Initially, the company manufactured 'bustles'—the framework used to add volume to the skirts of women's dresses. As times changed, the business expanded, and 30 years after its founding, in 1906, the company ventured into manufacturing men's underwear.
“While close-fitting undergarments were the standard at the time, B.V.D. was one of the first to introduce a loose-fit style.
“Back then, the one-piece undergarment known as the 'union suit' was also very popular in America, and B.V.D. released its own version in 1915.
“This union suit, known for its stretchiness and light feel thanks to its waffle-knit fabric, reportedly sold seven million units in the 1920s.
“The brand's slogan was, 'Next to myself I like B.V.D. best.' The literal translation is, 'After myself, I like B.V.D. best.' Along with this memorable slogan, B.V.D. built its brand recognition worldwide.
“They even ran advertisements in major American magazines at the time, like 'LIFE' and 'Esquire'—often considered the world's first men's lifestyle magazine.”
Right: A vintage ad for the B.V.D. union suit.
“Later, in 1919, the brand caused a stir by featuring the New York Yankees in its advertisements. It continued to expand, launching what is now a staple athletic shirt—the tank top—in 1929.
“Amidst this growth, B.V.D. reached another major turning point.
“That was its entry into the swimwear market in 1931. After successfully launching lines for men, women, and children, the brand was featured in major fashion magazines and stocked in luxury department stores.
“They generated even more buzz by hiring Johnny Weissmuller, the Olympic swimmer and star of the film 'Tarzan the Ape Man,' as a model.
“Then came knit trunks in 1935 and knit briefs in 1938. As American lifestyles evolved, B.V.D.'s products gradually transformed into the modern underwear we know today.”
Right: An ad for swimwear featuring Johnny Weissmuller.
“As B.V.D. grew as an underwear brand in America, it also offered a wide range of other items beyond undergarments, including sweatshirts, shirts, and even denim pants.
“Then, in the 1960s, the brand developed a pocket T-shirt called 'B.V.D. SPORTOPS'.
“I believe the launch of this item was the catalyst that shifted the brand's image. People started seeing B.V.D. not just as a maker of packaged T-shirts and underwear, but as a brand for 'outer T-shirts' as well.”
Nearly 50 Years in Japan: How B.V.D. Became a Household Name
We've journeyed through B.V.D.'s extensive American history, but the brand's story in Japan kicked off in the 1970s. Now, approaching its 50th anniversary in the country, B.V.D. has established a rich history here as well. We continued our conversation with Kitami."A wide range of items was launched in Japan, but the brand's core has always been the foundational pieces of modern underwear: trunks, briefs, tank tops, and T-shirts.
For anyone who remembers B.V.D. from the 1970s, the brand is likely synonymous with underwear staples like T-shirts and briefs.
Back then, we had ads in the magazine "POPEYE" almost every month, and we even ran TV commercials.
One of the most memorable lines from that era is our “GOLD” series of T-shirts and briefs. It has been a fan favorite for years and is still in production today."
"Today, the clear distinction between an undershirt and a T-shirt worn as outerwear has become much more blurred, right?
Originally, 'undershirts' were typically made from a tight-fitting rib knit, while outerwear T-shirts or blank tees for printing were made from open-end jersey knit. While there were some exceptions, that was the general rule back then.
That brings me to the items we created to celebrate B.V.D.'s 150th anniversary. The idea was to bring back the classic American-made 'outerwear T-shirt' by using the same yarn as our 'GOLD' line.
The lineup features three styles. This includes a medium-weight model knitted with a two-ply yarn—made from two twisted strands of 36-count single yarn, which is quite fine for a standard T-shirt and the same used in the 'GOLD' series—and a heavyweight model using three twisted strands of the same yarn."
Left: LIGHT WEIGHT-2PACK Crew Neck T-shirt ¥5,500 (tax incl.)
Center: MEDIUM WEIGHT Crew Neck T-shirt ¥4,180 (tax incl.)
Right: HEAVY WEIGHT Boatswain Neck T-shirt ¥6,380 (tax incl.)
Introducing "STANDARD UNIFORM SUPPLY": Defining B.V.D.'s New Classics
Next, we delved into B.V.D.'s brand-new line, "STANDARD UNIFORM SUPPLY," which just launched this past February."'STANDARD UNIFORM SUPPLY' was born from the idea of B.V.D. 'supplying timeless everyday wear.'
The foundation is built on classic items like T-shirts and sweatshirts, but we infuse them with B.V.D.'s extensive American heritage. The concept is to create 'classic B.V.D. apparel' by drawing from our historical archives.
Since our inception, B.V.D. has been dedicated to crafting functional, durable, and long-lasting everyday clothing, always in pursuit of the classic style of the times. This new line carries on that timeless quality.
The neck label features the vintage logo used from the 1970s to the 90s. It’s a striking design with a red accent inside the 'V,' a logo that gained global recognition as printable wear became popular.
We chose this logo for the neck label to honor our brand's history and the spirit of that era, all while aiming to create new value for today.
Let me show you one of the items. It features a patch that was used on authentic B.V.D. products starting in the early 1900s. This patch became a cherished symbol of the brand—so much so that it was said, 'If it doesn't have this patch, it's not genuine.'
For this collection, we've placed that very patch design on the left chest. The T-shirt is made from heavyweight American cotton.
It has become a new signature T-shirt, representing the essence of STANDARD UNIFORM SUPPLY."
"There's one more collection I'd like to show you. We've designed a uniform collection around a fictional project called 'FRESHWEAR DELIVERY SERVICE.'
Based on the concept of 'a delivery service for fresh apparel,' we're releasing a variety of items like T-shirts and caps."
FDS S/S TEE ¥6,600 (tax incl.)
We've explored B.V.D.'s long history and its exciting new ventures. Born in the USA and evolving with the lifestyles of each generation, the brand's 'American spirit' is unmistakable.
From the products launched for its 150th anniversary to the "STANDARD UNIFORM SUPPLY" line that bridges its American heritage with modern times, B.V.D.'s craftsmanship reveals a clear vision for the future.
If you're looking to bring a touch of that classic, good-old-days American vibe into your everyday life, B.V.D. is a brand worth rediscovering.
PROFILE
Itaru Kitami
Fujibo Apparel Co., Ltd.
Brand Manager
Born in Niigata Prefecture in 1971. He began his career in 1992, spending about a decade as a buyer for an imported music retailer. He later relocated to Okinawa for two years, starting in 2005.
Upon returning to Tokyo in 2007, he joined an import wholesale company that handled numerous American national brands, including FRUIT OF THE LOOM. After then serving as a manager for another national brand, he joined his current employer, Fujibo Apparel Co., Ltd. Starting in 2025, he will be in charge of elevating the B.V.D. brand image in Japan.
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