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In an Age When Suits Are "Unnecessary," Why Did FABRIC TOKYO's "Washable Luxury Wool Suit" Become a Contrarian Hit?

2026.04.06

The year 2020 upended the very concept of business wear. As remote work became the norm and the "no-suit" movement gained traction, one company stepped up to the challenge of creating a "washable luxury wool suit." That company was the custom suit brand FABRIC TOKYO.

Why now, and why custom-made? We sat down with Tatsunori Sasaki, the head of product development, to uncover the story behind their smash-hit product, "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH," born out of challenging times, and the incredible Japanese textile technology that made it possible.

PROFILE

Tatsunori Sasaki

Born in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture.

After graduating from ESMOD TOKYO with a major in Men's Comprehensive Studies, he honed his skills as a planning designer and production manager at leading select shops and designer brands. He joined FABRIC TOKYO in 2015 as one of its initial members, where he was instrumental in shaping product planning, structuring the custom-order system, and developing new fabrics and products. Since 2022, in his role as Product Planning Director, he has focused on strengthening collaborations with production regions to champion meticulous, high-quality craftsmanship.

The "Third Option" Born from Adversity

In 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic dealt a devastating blow to the business wear market. With the rise of new work styles like stay-at-home mandates and remote work, the occasions for wearing a suit plummeted. A shadow of pessimism fell over the entire industry, with many believing that “suits are a thing of the past.”

But FABRIC TOKYO saw things differently. Sasaki recalls his analysis of the market at the time, which he believed was polarized between two extremes: “cheap, functional suits” and “high-maintenance, luxury suits.” When meeting colleagues on-screen for a remote conference, a T-shirt feels too casual, but a stuffy suit is out of the question. What people needed was a “third option”—something that combined the ease of at-home care with the professional dignity required for business.

According to Sasaki, the concept for “WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH” had been in the works even before the pandemic. However, the unprecedented crisis accelerated its development. After just one year of material development, the product was released in 2021. It was more than just functional wear; it became a smash hit perfectly adapted to the new way of working.

A Textile Miracle from the "City of Water," Ogaki

The groundwater of Ogaki City, key to "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH"

The secret to the quality of "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" lies, above all, in the environment where the material is produced. The partner chosen for this task was Sanko Textile, a company based in Ogaki City, Gifu Prefecture.

Ogaki has long been known as the "City of Water," a region blessed with an abundance of natural groundwater. The wool finishing process, which includes washing and fulling (a shrinking process called shukuju), requires vast amounts of water, meaning that water quality is a critical factor in the final texture of the fabric.

Sanko Textile uses soft water pumped from deep underground, which is rich in minerals. Sasaki explained that this soft water minimizes damage to the wool fibers, resulting in a luxuriously soft feel and vibrant color development.

Moreover, the use of groundwater contributes to a lower environmental footprint by circulating this precious resource. In Ogaki City, only a select few companies are permitted to draw groundwater, making this a unique production method possible only because of Sanko Textile's long-standing history and expertise.

A high-quality fabric was born through the collaboration with Sanko Textile.

What Sets It Apart from Cheaper Functional Suits

These days, the concept of "washable wool" is no longer a novelty. A quick look at the market, however, reveals that many such products are mass-market items that prioritize cost-cutting by using a high polyester blend. FABRIC TOKYO's goal was something entirely different: to create a "sense of luxury worthy of a custom-made suit."

The material blend for "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" is 44% wool, 54% polyester, and 2% polyurethane. The key detail here is the grade of the wool. While functional suits typically rely on low-cost raw materials, this product incorporates "Extra Fine Merino," a premium-grade wool.

Because of this, it completely avoids the scratchy texture and dull sheen often associated with inexpensive wool blends. Instead, you're greeted with a remarkably smooth touch, a beautiful luster, and a gentle feel against the skin that is truly impressive.

The premium "Extra Fine Merino" wool creates an exceptionally smooth feel.

Additionally, the polyester portions incorporate recycled materials. This decision was driven less by function and more by the company's commitment to sustainability as a core principle.

It's the perfect blend: the premium feel of wool, the practicality of polyester, and a commitment to the environment. Sasaki explains their focus was on creating a fabric that goes beyond being merely washable, aiming to provide a deep sense of satisfaction to the owner.

The 330g Challenge: The Dilemma of Lightweight Design and Expert Tailoring

Creating "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" also demands the use of the highest quality wool looms.

The first thing most people notice when they pick up a "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" garment is its incredible lightness. A single jacket comes in at just around 330g. Yet, Sasaki reveals that achieving this featherlight feel wasn't their primary goal.

To lighten a suit's structure, you typically have to remove the internal "interlining." The problem is, this can compromise the suit's classic three-dimensional form and its ability to hold its shape. This is where expert pattern making comes into play. By minimizing the interlining, strategically using fusible interfacing, and designing patterns that factored in the fabric's natural characteristics, the team successfully balanced a beautiful silhouette with a lightweight feel. That 330g figure isn't just a number; it's the natural result of their quest for functional beauty.

Weighing only 330g, its meticulously calculated pattern still ensures a stunning silhouette.

The development team also wrestled with balancing the suit's "washable" functionality with its inherent "dignity." When you think about machine washing, topstitching the hems is far more durable. But that would detract from the suit's refined look, presenting a difficult choice.

Ultimately, FABRIC TOKYO opted for the classic "blind stitch"—a hallmark of quality tailoring. While this stitch provides a premium finish, its weakness is a tendency to unravel under the strain of washing. To counteract this, they make minor, invisible updates each year, like adding more double-stitched sections and reinforcing high-stress areas.

This process highlights the brand's core strength: taking direct customer feedback and working closely with their manufacturing partners to make continuous improvements.

Proving "Washable": A Cross-Industry Partnership

Of course, some consumers might still be skeptical, wondering, "Can I really just toss this in the wash?" To put these fears to rest, FABRIC TOKYO recently launched a cross-industry collaboration, partnering with Lion Corporation, a company famous for its detergents and oral care products.

The partnership began when FABRIC TOKYO joined a project initiated by Lion. It's unusual for an apparel company to team up with a detergent maker for material development. Sasaki explains that he wanted to provide objective proof of the "washable" claim by conducting tests with professionals who are experts on detergents and washing machines.

The testing took place at Lion's research institute. It was a grueling process involving numerous washing machines set up to mimic typical home laundry conditions, with products being washed over and over. Sasaki admits that some of the samples his team submitted with great confidence didn't make the cut. The ones that endured over 30 washes without losing their shape or texture are now being released as the next generation of products.

This partnership has enabled them to propose a new lifestyle—one where you can love and maintain a delicate garment like a suit at home for years to come. Sasaki is certain that having their products validated by Lion, the "experts in washing," offers the ultimate reassurance to customers.

A Suit to Support the Evolving Nature of Work

Its beautiful sheen and pleasant feel make it an appealing new option for custom suits.

"WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" was born out of the adversity of the pandemic and has since become one of FABRIC TOKYO's signature products. However, Sasaki is already looking toward the future.

While the current model is known for its softness and elegant drape, he reveals that development is underway for a firmer material aimed at customers who prefer a more traditional, structured suit. He also lists ongoing research into fabrics with enhanced breathability and comfort as a key priority to tackle Japan's increasingly brutal summer heat.

From raw yarn cultivated by the waters of Ogaki City, to meticulous pattern design and real-world testing with industry partners, each suit is the culmination of an incredible journey. It's more than just a piece of clothing—it represents a new value proposition, upgrading the lifestyles of professionals in an ever-changing world. It's clear that "WASHABLE WOOL STRETCH" is poised to become the new standard in business attire.