Articles

The Secret Story Behind Factelier's Fluorine-Free Water Repellent "NEWEVER": A Journey Sparked by Discontinuing a Signature Product

2026.05.22

Factelier, an apparel brand championing high-quality, "Made in Japan" craftsmanship, has developed "NEWEVER," a groundbreaking fluorine-free water-repellent technology. The story behind this innovation, however, begins with a once-popular water-repellent product that was pulled from the shelves due to concerns over its environmental and health impacts.

Five years after giving up a best-seller, how did this new technology—one that achieves both high water repellency and moisture-wicking properties while prioritizing safety—come to be? We spoke with Masaki Kobayashi, head of sales promotion and PR at Lifestyle Accent Inc., the company behind the brand, to learn about the development journey and the story behind the scenes.

PROFILE

Masaki Kobayashi

Factelier / Lifestyle Accent Inc.
Content and PR Manager

Born in Osaka Prefecture in 1982. After graduating from university, Kobayashi studied public relations for two years at the PR professional training school 'EFAP JAPON' before gaining experience at two PR firms. While still at a PR company, he joined the founding team of Factelier—a direct-from-factory fashion brand specializing in 'Made in Japan' goods—as a volunteer in 2012. After two and a half years, he officially became the company's very first employee. His role has extended far beyond PR, encompassing content creation, 'Factelier on the Road' speaking tours, factory tours, customer support, in-store service, shipping, and even managing the Kumamoto flagship store. Today, as the Content and PR Manager, he shares the richness of Japanese craftsmanship through factory interviews, content and newsletter creation, PR, and his involvement in apparel product development.

The Hit C6 Water-Repellent White Pants and the Decision to Discontinue Them

Factelier once had a smash-hit product: white cotton pants that repelled dirt. Today, however, that item is no longer for sale. Kobayashi recalls that time.

"The water-repellent white pants we sold five or six years ago were featured on TV and sold incredibly well. They perfectly addressed a major customer concern: wanting to wear white pants in the summer but worrying about stains. They really struck a chord."

However, the water-repellent finish used back then contained an organofluorine compound known as 'C6.' This is a substance that does not easily break down in nature and has raised concerns about its environmental impact and potential effects on human health.

As the global movement toward eco-consciousness gained momentum, Factelier made a pivotal decision.

"It's not that all fluorine compounds are inherently bad, but the push to ban their use was accelerating, particularly in Europe. We concluded that no matter how popular the product, continuing to sell something that could potentially risk environmental and human health was inconsistent with our brand's principles. So, we made the painful decision to halt sales."

Parting with a flagship product that was driving revenue was by no means an easy choice for the brand. Nevertheless, Factelier chose to embark on a new path: developing a fluorine-free (C0) water-repellent technology from the ground up, one that would be safe for both people and the planet. Thus began a long, five-year journey.

Patented water-repellent pants perfected after a five-year development process. Available in three colors: White, Light Gray, and Navy. NEWEVER Water-Repellent: Stain-Repelling Chinos ¥17,600 (tax included)

The Technical Hurdles of Cotton and C0 Water Repellency

Developing a fluorine-free C0 water-repellent finish came with a host of technical difficulties. For synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester, their smooth surfaces and high density make coating them with a C0 repellent a relatively straightforward task.

However, Factelier was set on creating comfortable cotton pants for everyday wear.

"The cellulose in cotton naturally attracts water. Plus, unlike synthetic fibers, cotton fibers have a fuzzy, uneven surface, which makes it tough to apply a uniform water-repellent coating."

This dedication to the material cranked up the difficulty of development. Amidst these challenges, the company looked to external expertise for a breakthrough.

Teaming Up with Koritsu, a Jeans Factory in Kojima

With development at a standstill, Factelier partnered with Koritsu, a finishing factory in Kojima, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture. Koritsu is a team of specialists renowned for being the first in Japan to develop stone-washing techniques for jeans.

However, the C0 water-repellent challenge stumped even the artisans at Koritsu. While increasing the concentration of the C0 repellent agent enhances its ability to repel water, heat is required to bond the agent to the fabric. Applying high heat to a high-concentration formula caused a phenomenon called "yellowing," where the white fabric would turn yellow.

"If you lower the concentration, you prevent yellowing, but then the fabric loses its water repellency. Finding that perfect balance to stop yellowing while maintaining sufficient water repellency was a seemingly endless battle."

Furthermore, for Koritsu, the process of applying a water-repellent finish to white pants was fraught with risk. Since they typically handle indigo-dyed jeans, their factory machinery is often coated with dye.

Since the factory also processes indigo-dyed jeans, the white chinos are handled in a completely separate process to prevent contamination.

"If the white pants get even slightly stained, they're unsellable. The artisans were forced into a very laborious process, thoroughly cleaning the processing vats and dryers every single time and even placing the pants in clear plastic bags during transport to prevent stains. We heard they initially considered turning down the project, but the president of Koritsu ignited his craftsman's spirit and took on this immense challenge for us."

Facing the two major hurdles of yellowing and staining, the development team would find a breakthrough in an unexpected place.

The Breakthrough: "Vacuum Processing" from School Uniforms

Kurashiki City is known not only for its jeans but also as a major producer of school uniforms. Koritsu handles finishing for both, and a turning point came when the stumped jeans-processing team consulted with the school uniform team.

The solution they proposed was a technique used in school uniform manufacturing called "vacuum processing."

"Cotton fibers contain a lot of air. By creating a vacuum inside the processing vat to completely remove the air from the fibers, we discovered we could make even a low-concentration water repellent penetrate deep into the core of the fabric."

In addition, Factelier developed a proprietary solvent and cross-linking agent that could firmly bond the repellent to the fabric even at low temperatures. A cross-linking agent is an ingredient that acts as a bridge, connecting the fabric and the water-repellent agent.

The combination of deep penetration through vacuum processing and low-temperature fixation with the proprietary cross-linking agent made it possible. They achieved high water repellency comparable to C6 and durability that withstands 20 to 30 washes, all while preventing yellowing.

And so, Factelier's fluorine-free water-repellent technology, "NEWEVER," was born.

Typically, fluorocompounds (like C6) are used to maintain high water repellency over the long term. However, NEWEVER achieves water repellency that withstands 20-30 washes without using any fluorine at all.

The NEWEVER process is also applied not to the fabric itself, but to the finished product after the pants have been sewn. The sewing is handled by Kanko Gakuseifuku, a school uniform manufacturer with a proud 170-year history.

"If you process the fabric at the bolt stage, you risk damaging its natural texture or causing it to shrink. By processing the finished garment, we can preserve the original soft feel of the cotton. More importantly, this ensures that even the needle holes from the sewing machine are thoroughly coated with the water repellent, preventing water from seeping through the seams."

Sewing is done with meticulous care to avoid staining the fabric. All high-stress areas are reinforced with double stitching, and the inner seams are finished with neat piping and stitches.

The finished pants are hand-dipped into a solvent by artisans. This method allows the water-repellent agent to penetrate every seam and needle hole without compromising the cotton's naturally soft texture.

The Perfect Fabric and Silhouette, Born from Customer Feedback

Although NEWEVER cleared the technical hurdles, Factelier’s craftsmanship doesn't stop there. When deciding how to integrate this perfected technology into a product, the company meticulously listened to its customers.

"Just making what our artisans want to create won't lead to products our customers will love for a long time. We gathered genuine customer feedback through methods like online interviews."

Previous feedback on their white pants included comments that the fabric was too thick and hot for summer wear, and the silhouette was too slim. While woven cotton is naturally moisture-wicking due to the gaps between fibers, a thick fabric will inevitably trap heat.

The 95% cotton fabric has a water-repellent (not waterproof) finish, allowing humidity to escape through the weave.

"We wanted a fabric light enough to be cool in summer, yet thick enough to not be see-through. To strike the perfect balance between these opposing needs, we developed numerous fabric samples and had our staff and customers test them out. We also refined the silhouette, adding a little more room in the thighs and calves to create a fit that remains elegant."

With just the right amount of room at the waist and hips, the silhouette gently tapers from the knee down, making legs appear longer and leaner.

The Future of Daily Wear: Offering Joy Over a Sense of Duty

The goal isn't just to perfect the technology, but to design the entire wearing experience that comes with it. This is the core philosophy at the heart of Factelier's craftsmanship.

Finally, Kobayashi shared his thoughts on the value NEWEVER provides:

"Instead of forcing the 'right' environmental actions on people, we want to create clothes that you want to wear simply because they repel water, resist stains, and feel cool and comfortable in summer. You’re freed from the little stresses of daily life, so you can play and dine without a worry. Then, you happen to realize those clothes were also made from eco-friendly materials. We believe the ideal society is one where that sense of 'rightness' is hidden behind the 'fun.'"

Five years after discontinuing a blockbuster product, Factelier has created a new form of everyday wear by combining Japanese craftsmanship with customer feedback to balance both environmental consideration and functionality. The company's journey showcases a new path forward for product development and environmental responsibility in the apparel industry.