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The Philosophy Behind the Craftsmanship of FULLCOUNT, Japan's Leading Jean Brand
FULLCOUNT is a premier Japanese brand that consistently creates high-quality denim items. Launched in the midst of the 1990s vintage jeans boom, FULLCOUNT quickly gained popularity for its meticulous attention to detail. Their exceptional quality earned them the reputation of being "hard-to-get jeans," making them a sensation among fashion lovers.
Since then, the brand has continued to pioneer a style that fuses originality with a passionate, vintage-inspired approach to craftsmanship. Today, FULLCOUNT is highly acclaimed not only in Japan but also internationally, having grown into a top-tier denim brand with a global footprint.
We sat down with Mikiharu Tsujita, CEO of Fullcount Co., Ltd., and Shoya Hagiwara, the Production Manager of the International Sales Department, to discuss the history of FULLCOUNT's craftsmanship and its current classic items.
First, let's hear from Tsujita about how the brand got its start.
“I got into the jeans business around 1989. I had this drive to create truly high-quality jeans, so in 1992, I struck out on my own and started making them myself.
Looking at vintage jeans from that era, their construction was a world away from the manufacturing of the 1990s. There were forgotten sewing methods and details, and I felt there was so much untapped potential—that's what motivated me to launch the brand.
At the time, American and French jean brands were just starting to reproduce selvedge denim, known as *'akamimi'* or 'red ear.' Even though it was scarce in Japan, we managed to source some. We used it to create our first model, the '1101,' and FULLCOUNT officially kicked off in 1993.”
FULLCOUNT's First Model: The "1101"
Let's take a closer look at the "1101," the very first pair of jeans from FULLCOUNT. For this, we'll turn it over to Shoya Hagiwara.“The '1101' is FULLCOUNT's foundational straight-leg jean. It features details inspired by vintage jeans from the 1940s to the 1960s, like using selvedge denim, 'hidden rivets' securing the back pockets from the inside, and a 'V-stitch' reinforcement by the waistband button.
While we've continually made minor adjustments to the silhouette over the years to keep it modern, we did a pretty major overhaul six years ago. We eliminated features like the decorative pocket stitching and the 'red tab,' and returned the silhouette to its original form from our founding days.
With its comfortable mid-to-high rise and classic, well-balanced silhouette, this model has been a cornerstone of FULLCOUNT's philosophy from day one, prized for its comfortable fit and versatile style.”
Crafting a Uniquely Original Denim Fabric
While FULLCOUNT is known for its incredible quality, we decided to focus on one of its many areas of expertise: the creation of its original denim fabric. We had Mikiharu Tsujita tell us the story of when the brand first developed its own denim back in the 1990s.“In 1994, in our pursuit of a denim with superior fading properties and exceptional comfort, we set out to create our own original fabric. However, to custom-order the yarn and produce the fabric required a massive minimum order of 84 bolts—about 5,000 meters of fabric. For a fledgling brand, it was a monumental decision.
Given that jeans are quintessentially American, we made that first 84-bolt batch of original denim with American cotton. We made a great product with it, of course, but that marked the beginning of our deep dive into perfecting fabric quality.
To replicate the fabric of vintage jeans, you need to create what's called *'mura-ito,'* or slub yarn, which has an irregular thickness. This process depends on using long-staple cotton, so we began sampling cottons from all over.
That's when we came across Zimbabwean cotton. This cotton was of such high quality that we could perfectly recreate the ideal slub yarn we had envisioned. The resulting denim was also exceptionally comfortable. I remember how discovering Zimbabwean cotton cemented my vision for the brand: to create 'comfortable jeans you can wear every day.'”
Meticulous Attention to Detail in Indigo Dyeing
Crafting one-of-a-kind denim fabric also requires an unwavering commitment to the indigo dyeing process. Let's dive deeper into their dedicated approach."When making denim, we dye the warp threads with indigo before they're woven. We specifically ask the dyers to adjust the process so the indigo doesn't fully penetrate the core of the yarn, creating what's known as 'nakajiro' (a white core). This technique is the secret to achieving that perfect fade over time.
Typically, the dyeing process involves pre-treatments like bleaching the yarn to ensure the dye penetrates the core. But I figured they probably didn't do that back in the day, so I asked them to dye the yarn without any pre-treatment.
It took plenty of trial and error, but we eventually developed the exact fabric I was searching for. Back then, I don't think many people were making requests like this. It was only through close communication with our partner factory and a meticulous focus on every single step that we brought it to life.
This special dyeing method, combined with how the thicker parts of the slub yarn wear down and fade first, creates the contrast that results in the sought-after 'tate-ochi' (vertical fading) that gives the fabric its beautifully aged character.
Today, we offer more variations of this original denim fabric. You can now choose from three different ounce weights for our jeans and denim jackets. We recommend the lighter-ounce options for those who prioritize ease of wear and comfort, and the heavier-ounce options for those looking for a more dramatic fade."
The "0105" Jeans: Kicking Things Off with Original Denim
Alongside the "1101," the "0105" stands as one of the brand's signature pairs of jeans, a model that debuted alongside FULLCOUNT's original denim fabric."The \"0105\" jeans were the very first pair we created with this original denim. We launched it as a new model number in 1994 when the fabric was perfected. Today, however, this original fabric is used in all our models, including the \"1101\" I mentioned earlier. The \"0105\" features a wide silhouette with a significant difference between the front and back rise to emphasize a low-slung, hip-hugging look."
FULLCOUNT: How Japanese Denim Won Over the World
This year marks the 33rd anniversary of the brand's launch. Today, FULLCOUNT is widely available both in Japan and internationally. It's carried in about 80 stores domestically and around 200 stores overseas, with its popularity spreading across the globe."It took us a while to break into international markets," Tsujita shared. "But I believe we've grown to our current scale because our brand concept resonated with people. They understood our philosophy of using high-quality items for a long time and our commitment to preserving artisanal techniques and the spirit of craftsmanship."
While holding deep respect for American vintage jeans, FULLCOUNT has consistently focused on Japanese-made craftsmanship. Their jeans have earned a reputation as "high-quality Japanese jeans," cementing its name on the global stage.
PROFILE
Mikiharu Tsujita
Fullcount Co., Ltd.
CEO
Born in Osaka in 1966. After attending Kinki University, he joined Lapine, a vintage shop in Umeda, Osaka, in 1989. In 1991, he began working for Evisu Jeans. He launched Fullcount in 1992. By 2025, the brand will celebrate its 33rd year, with two directly-managed stores and distribution to approximately 80 stores in Japan and 200 stores overseas.
PROFILE
Masaya Hagiwara
Fullcount Co., Ltd.
Head of Production / International Sales Department
From Shiga Prefecture. After graduating from university, he gained experience in the music and culture scene as a booking manager at a live music venue. A pair of FULLCOUNT jeans he owned as a student was the catalyst for his career in the apparel industry. Today, he oversees production, planning, and overseas sales for the brand, while also playing guitar in a rock band.
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