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The Tradition and Quality of Gloverall, the World's Favorite Duffle Coat
The duffle coat is one of the classic outerwear pieces for winter. In Japan, it has been a beloved staple for many years.
The duffle coat gets its name from the port town of Duffel, near Antwerp, Belgium's second-largest city. Its roots trace back to the cold-weather gear made for fishermen, using a thick, coarse fabric woven in the region. It was later officially adopted as an on-deck coat for the British Royal Navy.
Today, we're taking a closer look at Gloverall, the world-renowned brand synonymous with duffle coats.
We spoke with Hayato Tsukuba, a director at Associated International Co., Ltd., which has been handling Gloverall's distribution in Japan for many years, about the brand's history and classic items.
"Gloverall was founded in 1951, setting up a factory in Earls Barton, a town north of London. It's located near Northampton, famous as the heart of the British footwear industry, making it an area with a rich manufacturing culture.
The founders were siblings Harold and Freda Morris. After World War II, they started collecting and selling surplus coats from the British military. When these became a hit, they began creating their own original duffle coats—and that was the beginning of Gloverall. To this day, they avoid mass production, with a few dozen artisans continuing to craft duffle coats with a commitment to being 'Made in Britain'."
Gloverall's Long History in Japan
Just nine years after its founding, in 1960, Gloverall's duffle coats began to be sold in Japan. This early entry into the Japanese market was made possible because the founder of Associated International Co., Ltd. knew the Morris siblings, Gloverall's founders."Many people might remember the duffle coat boom that hit Japan in the 1990s, but duffle coats were already becoming a trend back in the 1960s when Gloverall first arrived in Japan.
The popular model back then was the 'CLASSIC,' which featured a double-faced melton fabric with a check pattern on the inside. The 'CLASSIC' model was also characterized by its buffalo horn toggles and leather loops."
The 'MONTY': Gloverall's Standard Model with Royal Navy Roots
Next, Tsukuba introduced us to the 'MONTY,' a signature item that represents the Gloverall brand. This model is known for driving the 1990s duffle coat boom mentioned earlier."During the 1990s duffle coat boom, military-inspired styles started to gain traction. The 'MONTY,' which closely resembled the original Royal Navy duffle coats, became popular, and I think that's how it cemented its image as a Gloverall classic.
When the boom first started, the 'MONTY' had four toggles. However, the original Royal Navy duffle coats had three, so in the late 1990s, the 'MONTY' was updated to have three toggles as well.
This change made the hem longer. To prevent the hem from flapping, a thick herringbone tape strap was added to the inside, which can be looped around the leg. It's a feature you probably wouldn't use in everyday wear, but I believe this detail was revived based on historical documents and photos.
The 'MONTY' features wooden toggles and jute rope loops. But it's not just the number of toggles that has changed. The wooden toggles from the 1990s had a glossy, lacquered finish, whereas today they have a more natural texture. Even for a classic, the specifications evolve subtly with the times.
Additionally, the buttons on the hood are a military-derived feature that allows you to adjust the fit. The material used is 'boiled wool,' a felted, dense wool fabric.
The standard colors are navy and camel. While seasonal colors are also released, these two have remained the most popular for many years."
GLOVERALL's Japan-Exclusive Model: The "KINGSTON"
GLOVERALL, which boasts a long history in Japan, offers a model exclusive to the Japanese market: the "KINGSTON.""The 'KINGSTON,' available exclusively in Japan, is a sophisticated piece made with herringbone wool fabric, making it a perfect match for more formal, dressy styles.
Just like the 'CLASSIC' model we mentioned earlier, it features genuine buffalo horn toggles and leather loop fastenings. The sleeves are lined to make it easy to slip on over a jacket.
Crafted with herringbone wool from the historic British fabric maker Mallalieus, this coat is positioned as one of GLOVERALL's top-tier models."
And there you have it—a look at three must-know duffle coats from the GLOVERALL lineup.
While flexibly engaging in collaborations and custom orders with various brands worldwide, GLOVERALL continues to craft classic, standard-setting pieces. In an ever-changing world, their dedication to unwavering, high-quality British manufacturing speaks volumes about the brand's unshakeable principles.
This winter, many will surely find themselves drawn to the timeless appeal of a duffle coat once again.
PROFILE
Hayato Tsukuba
Associated International K.K.
Director
In his sales role, he manages accounts with major select shops, specialty stores, and department stores across Japan. He has also orchestrated collaborations with brands like Ron Herman, BLUE BLUE, Canterbury, SOPH, and Aquascutum. Currently, he is involved in all aspects of the business, including discovering, planning, and marketing for brands with European production bases, with a primary focus on the British products his company handles.
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