Official Uniform of the Osaka-Kansai Expo! A Thorough Breakdown of the Masterpiece Sandal "Unda" by "goyemon," an Evolution of the Traditional Setta

Every new release sells out in an instant. With collaborations with Paris Fashion Week brands and now adopted as the official uniform for the Japan Pavilion at the Osaka-Kansai Expo, this Japanese product brand is turning heads—and that brand is goyemon.

The brand's most iconic item is the unda-雲駄-. This signature product is a new kind of footwear that reimagines the traditional Japanese Setta with a modern twist. It boasts a unique silhouette and the sensation of walking on clouds, winning over a loyal and passionate following.

We spoke to the two designers about the blend of traditional "Wa" (Japanese aesthetics) and technology that defines Unda.

The appearance of Unda closely resembles traditional Setta. But look closer: you’ll spot an air cushion in the midsole. On the design, Goyemon conceptor Kenta Takeuchi shares:

"Originally, 'Setta' involved attaching leather to the bottom of straw zori sandals, reportedly for walking on 'snow.' By adding sneaker soles, we wanted to recreate the sensation of walking on 'clouds.' That’s why we named them 'unda-雲駄-'!"

I slipped on a pair of Unda at Goyemon’s shop and atelier.

Sure enough, they feel cushiony like a sneaker, and the outsole has a strong grip beneath your feet.

What surprised me even more was the overall shape—a playful revival of the classic Setta form.

"Just like the traditional Setta, Unda have 'no left or right.' Switching feet helps prevent the soles from wearing unevenly—a clever Japanese detail. Historically, wearing them a bit small so your little toe and heel stick out was considered 'Iki' (stylish). We recommend the same sizing for Unda," says Ai Onishi.

"Setta provide full sole contact, spreading your weight evenly—so they're surprisingly stable and balanced. We kept this advantage and fine-tuned the weight distribution," says Takeuchi.

"During development, we hand-carved style form for the outsole with cutters and made dozens of prototypes," adds Onishi.

The key to Unda’s one-of-a-kind comfort is precise, innovative detailing.

"Traditional Setta are made by weaving slim strips of bamboo skin and wrapping them around a compressed paper core. With Unda, we modernized this structure—adding cushioning materials and updating components," says Takeuchi.

"The thong is under the most strain, so we’re always refining the materials and structure for an even better fit as you wear them," Onishi adds.

The first Unda model dropped in 2018. Today, including all fabric, color variations, and special editions, there are over 100 different versions. Collaborations with major brands like A BATHING APE®, White Mountaineering, and FR2 keep on coming.

The bold design could easily be mistaken as simply a novelty.

But throughout our interview, both designers spoke with a deep respect for Japanese culture and an obsession with thoughtful development. What exactly is Goyemon all about?

Goyemon's Design Principle: "Creating Instant Connection"

Goyemon was founded in 2018 by two high school classmates from Tokyo Metropolitan Kogei High School, debuting alongside Unda.

"After entering the workforce, we started chatting and got excited about doing something together. We wondered if we could raise funds through crowdfunding—so we began by researching successful projects.

"Two major trends emerged: 'Japanese traditional culture' and 'gadgets using the latest technology.' That’s when the idea to fuse Setta and sneakers was born," says Onishi.

It might come as a surprise considering Unda's current popularity, but they didn’t actually set out to create a fashion brand.

"Why has investment flowed into 'Japanese tradition' and 'cutting-edge gadgets'? I think it’s because of the storytelling aspect of history and the sense of excitement about the future. Goyemon is a brand that expresses those through products," says Onishi.

Goyemon's creations span a wide range: the portable light "ANCOH-庵光-"—an update of the traditional lantern—and the heat-resistant glass "Fuwan-浮碗-" with cut-glass design, to name a few. All of their products are unified by a consistent worldview. Among Japan’s many traditional crafts, why were Unda their first product?

"Most apparel brands don’t make their own original footwear—they usually do collaborations. So if we could create truly unique footwear, we’d have a chance to work with the brands we respect. That was our quickest route to carving out a position for ourselves.

"More importantly, the first product needed to 'instantly resonate.' Something whose concept, functionality, and brand identity could be communicated in a single photo. For that, 'Setta sandals x sneakers' was the obvious choice," says Onishi.

Since they were unknown, they relied on strategy. Although the two already had some product manufacturing knowledge, they had no experience with footwear; it took more than half a year to develop. However, they don’t remember it as a struggle.

"I’m often asked about challenges in interviews, but honestly, I don’t have any tough memories. We definitely experimented a lot, but we were just seriously enjoying the process of creating something we truly wanted," says Takeuchi.

"I clearly remember working with the Setta artisans. We broke down traditional techniques to see how we could introduce new approaches—constantly asking ourselves, 'How can we make it happen?'" says Onishi.

Unda’s soles are crafted by traditional Setta artisans, with their most popular fabric woven in Kyoto. Every step is made in Japan, and upon launch, they received crowdfunding support exceeding 20 million yen in just a week.

Now, they are heading in a new direction.

Chosen as an Expo Uniform. Japan's New Footwear Makes Its Debut on the World Stage

For the Osaka-Kansai Expo's "Japan Pavilion," Unda were selected as the official footwear.

"Yuya Nakata, designer of 'postelegant' and the person behind the uniforms, is a big fan of Unda and reached out to us. For extra stability, we wrapped the base with rubber and used a newly-developed, coarsely woven poly-blend fabric for slip resistance," says Onishi.

There were several functional requirements to meet before Unda were chosen for the uniform, but the skills built up through previous updates and collaborations paid off. Today, Unda are worn by staff during VIP events at the Japan Pavilion.

Moreover, the lineup of Unda derivative products just keeps growing.

"For the summer, the EVA-made Unda are particularly popular. Their excellent cushioning and water resistance make them perfect for the season.

"'unda TEGU' use straps inspired by 'Setta-dome,' which are ties used to secure Setta sandals when carrying a portable shrine. We also developed our own neoprene Tabi socks," says Takeuchi.

It’s been seven years since Unda first launched. Now, they’ve opened a flagship store in Shibuya, drawing fans from Japan and abroad.

"When I’m at the Goyemon shop, I sometimes see customers bringing friends with them and explaining Unda. Moments like that make me the happiest. It reminds me that users have joined the story we’ve been so passionate about crafting," says Takeuchi.

"Reactions from overseas are pure 'Amazing!' Right now, we’re only taking orders through our own e-commerce site, but eventually, I know we’ll need to have retail presence abroad too," says Onishi.

After speaking with the two designers, I felt that Unda’s international expansion is just around the corner. Japanese culture and street fashion are seamlessly fused here in a way never seen before.

I want to highlight that beneath the surface is a deep respect for tradition, an obsession with detail, technology, and a playful spirit. It embodies a truly "Japanese" style of footwear.