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The Reality of the Fashion Industry as Depicted by Haruna Lemon: Unraveling the Popular Manga "Fashion!!"

2024.12.05
The glamorous world of fashion, seen from the outside, features runway shows, models in fashion magazines, and designers of collections. Many people may look upon this with envy and aspire to work in the industry.
However, every industry has its hidden sides. That’s why it’s worth checking out the manga by Haruna Lemon, titled "Fashion!!" serialized on "OUR FEEL." The story follows a protagonist working in the fashion industry who becomes embroiled in various troubles and human relationships after meeting a rookie designer, realistically depicting both the glamorous and gritty aspects of the fashion world, along with human desires and passions.
This time, we spoke with Haruna Lemon about her experiences creating a manga centered on the fashion industry, discussing both its splendor and the gritty realities from the perspective of a manga artist.

PROFILE

Haruna Lemon

Making her debut with "ZUCCA×ZUCA" (Kodansha), Haruna Lemon’s major works include "タクマとハナコ" (Bungeishunju), "ダルちゃん" (Shogakukan), among others. Currently, she is serializing "Fashion!!" on the web manga site “OUR FEEL” (ShuCream).

The Fascination of Working in the Fashion Industry

What sparked your interest in the fashion industry?
I've loved the Takarazuka Revue for a long time and was part of a fan community, where many people from the fashion industry were present. Through this hobby, I gained more friends who were fashion magazine editors and photographers, and at one point, I even shared a room with them.
 
At that time, I had some free time from work, so I would help them out whenever I could. I also walked around high-end stores borrowing clothes and accessories needed for photo shoots.
Did you have an inkling that you would someday draw manga centered around fashion?
The desire to draw was somewhere in my heart. However, the world of fashion felt so distant from my daily life, and since it was a realm I had never experienced before, I often wondered how to express it in a way that would entertain my readers.
 
After all, the fashion-loving friends around me were genuinely struggling financially, yet they would suddenly buy a fur coat that costs 400,000 yen. They’d say, “If you choose to pay in installments, this much can be forgotten” (laughs).
Their behavior often made me worry, leaving me to think that people who love fashion are quite fascinating.
To convey the interesting and peculiar aspects of the fashion industry, you started drawing "Fashion!!"
Fashion manga has mostly depicted the struggles of models and designers, but I thought that if I could provide a different angle, it would be worthwhile for me to draw.

The Spirit of Trying Everything

The manga realistically portrays the process of a fashion show; what kind of research have you conducted for this?
I reached out to acquaintances working in the fashion industry, volunteering to help out with anything. Rather than strictly conducting interviews, I mostly acted like a member of the staff, so some people might have thought I was an intern. I assisted at the fashion show reception while sneaking in some photos here and there to gather information.
The foundation for this stance comes from Akiko Higashimura, whom I assisted. She embodied the spirit of trying everything, which has really influenced me.
 
During that time, I not only worked as a manga assistant but also as event staff, and for some reason, I even danced at one point. I found myself in a situation where I had to do a wide variety of tasks, and surprisingly, I enjoyed it.

The Behind the Scenes of the Stage & Human Inner Nature

I think "Fashion!!" strikes a perfect balance between the realism of reality and the entertainment aspect of manga.
I’m still exploring this, and I find it truly challenging.
For the first three or four volumes, I was in a state of uncertainty about what I should do. I wanted to incorporate entertainment while also showing reality. Although I still have conflicts regarding this, I believe I've started to get accustomed to it.
It's definitely challenging to make judgments, especially with the accumulation of research.
There are two things I want to depict in my manga.
One is the behind-the-scenes stories of the fashion industry. I want people to know about how fascinating the fashion industry is based on my interviews and experiences. While it appears glamorous, many people are uninterested in anything but clothing and are surprisingly satisfied with convenience store rice balls (laughs).
The other focus is on human nature. This is what I genuinely wish to convey. Through the thoughts and behaviors of those working in the industry, I aim to portray universal aspects of humanity or the struggles inherent to any profession.
What materials do you reference for the clothing of your characters?
I don't have a specific brand in mind; I often draw inspiration from street snaps. The way people in the streets style their outfits is genuinely valuable reference material. Individuals who wear brands' looks tend to have a more human aspect in their portrayal.
 
In contrast, when drawing a single illustration, I often refer to shows from brands like ANREALAGE or VETEMENTS. The extraordinary looks from shows often translate into interesting visuals when illustrated, and depicting these outlandish designs is a lot of fun.
An illustration inspired by the ANREALAGE show. "Fashion!!" ⒸHaruna Lemon / ShuCream
Are street snaps actually taken out in the streets?
There are instances where I get to photograph at fashion events, and last year, I attended the Jean-Paul Gaultier musical at the TOKYU THEATRE Orb, and the audience there provided great inspiration.
 
While fashion enthusiasts are often thought to have outrageous outfits, many of them dress simply, with perhaps just one standout accessory. There are various patterns depending on the individual, and you can catch glimpses of their unique sense.

Insights on the Fashion Industry from a Cartoonist's Perspective

During your interviews so far, have you noticed any issues in the fashion industry?
I was shocked to discover that many people give up on becoming designers due to financial problems. This issue has nothing to do with talent. If young individuals don’t develop, I believe there’s no future for fashion.
I don’t think this structural issue can be solved by one person alone, but perhaps it can only change gradually. It saddened me to hear stories of young award-winning talents, once filled with promise, who decided to pursue different paths because they couldn’t make a living.
"Fashion!!" ⒸHaruna Lemon / ShuCream
How does it compare to the world of manga artists?
I believe it's not just unique to manga. True ability is judged solely on whether something sells, so a completely unknown person can become incredibly wealthy if they generate sales, and I feel there's no gender disparity. Therefore, there have likely been many female manga artists since the time of Moto Hagio and the 24-year group.
 
Unlike other forms of art, there's no belonging to a certain school, no needs for fame, connections, or hidden dynamics in the manga world. It’s the essence of manga, and I think it's a hopeful profession.
Has your perspective on fashion changed through this series?
I initially had an image of a glamorous and sparkling world, but I found that many people were more down-to-earth and true to their desires.
Even if it appears glamorous on the surface, behind the scenes, there are extremely human exchanges, struggles, and individuals sewing clothes for very low wages. I deeply felt that this industry is sustained through mutual support.
Through this series, I have also started attending exhibitions, and I realized for the first time that you need to wear something to truly understand its quality.
My friends kept telling me that trying on clothes is free (laughs), and now I make it a point to try out garments that catch my eye.
At the exhibition of Motohiro Tanji. It's important to enjoy trying on various clothes.
Please share a message for your readers.
Having depicted the entertainment and common narratives of the fashion industry up to this point, I've struggled with the balance of its realism, but now I'm diving into the discussion about the inner nature of people, which I truly wanted to draw.
I’m excited to draw this, and I look forward to hearing your reactions. I hope you enjoy reading it!

Header Caption: "Fashion!!" ⒸHaruna Lemon / ShuCream

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