From School Shoes to the World: The Craftsmanship Behind Made-in-Japan Loafers "HARUTA"

Boasting the top market share for student shoes in Japan, HARUTA is a brand tied to memories of "first leather shoes" for many Japanese people. In recent years, however, it has gained new momentum, winning over fashion-conscious adults and international fans alike.

Since its founding in 1917, the brand's craftsmanship has been passed down for over 100 years, evolving alongside changing times while preserving its timeless values.

We spoke with Isao Haruta, President and CEO of HARUTA Co., Ltd., about the brand's history and the manufacturing philosophy behind its enduring popularity.

The Era When Loafers Became School Shoes

The loafer is synonymous with Japanese footwear brand HARUTA. Almost everyone in Japan wore a pair during their school years. The shoe gained widespread recognition in Japan during the 1970s, sparked by the Ivy League style trend led by fashion brands like VAN.

However, the pivotal turning point that truly made HARUTA a household name occurred between the 1980s and 1990s due to shifts in Japanese schools. Nationwide, an increasing number of schools transitioned from traditional sailor suits and stand-up collar uniforms to blazer-style uniforms. Naturally, loafers were chosen to complete the look.

Isao Haruta, President of HARUTA Co., Ltd., reflects on that era:

"From the 1980s to the 1990s, school uniforms rapidly shifted toward blazer-style designs. The Ivy League look was popular in street fashion during the 1970s, and similar styles were adopted into school uniforms. I believe this transition was a major factor in HARUTA becoming widely recognized."

Riding this major wave, HARUTA loafers evolved from a trendy item into an essential staple of student life.

The System Behind Delivering Made-in-Japan Quality at an Affordable Price

What's truly remarkable is the price. Despite being high-quality, Made-in-Japan leather shoes, they are priced to remain easily accessible for students. How was this price point achieved? The answer lies in a business strategy of "focus and concentration."

"To put it simply, achieving an affordable price was all about focus and concentration—specifically, building a production line specialized exclusively in loafers."

As Haruta explains, HARUTA deliberately established a production line dedicated to loafers. This allowed for thorough cost management and a stable supply, bringing high quality and affordability to life. It was precisely this simple yet rigorous strategy that enabled HARUTA to become the go-to footwear brand supporting students across the nation.

Quality Backed by Integrated Domestic Production

The cornerstone of HARUTA's quality and reliable supply is its fully integrated domestic production system—a commitment maintained since its founding. The company operates four primary factories in Japan: the original plant in Senju Miyamotocho, Adachi Ward, Tokyo; Kyowa Kogyo, also in Adachi Ward; a factory in Sagae City, Yamagata Prefecture; and Miyagi Haruta Shoes in Wakuya Town, Miyagi Prefecture.

Furthermore, the shoe uppers—the "face" of the shoe—are produced in Kitami City, Hokkaido, while components such as insoles are manufactured by group companies in Adachi Ward, establishing a highly specialized division of labor.

"Except for a few specialized items, nearly 100% of our shoe production is kept in-house across our group companies."

While outsourcing is occasionally used to handle sudden spikes in demand, the vast majority of HARUTA's more than 100-year history has been sustained by integrated in-house production. This unyielding dedication to being "Made in Japan" forms the bedrock of HARUTA's quality.

"Spock Shoes": Loved for 70 Years

When discussing the history of HARUTA, alongside loafers, the "Spock Shoes" are an indispensable icon. Surprisingly, their history is even older than that of the brand's loafers. This unique shoe was born in 1955, inspired by ideas Haruta's grandfather—the company's founder—gathered during an inspection trip to the United States.

"Shoes you can slip right on and slip right off." This shoelace-free, easy-on, easy-off slip-on design was considered ideal for the Japanese lifestyle, where taking off shoes indoors is customary. According to Haruta, these shoes were not originally developed as a fashion item, but rather as "work footwear" designed to support specific professions.

Examples include doctor shoes worn by physicians inside hospitals, indoor shoes used by school teachers, or driving shoes for taxi drivers. That was the initial concept at launch.

Nearly 70 years have passed since their release. What was once work footwear has now transformed into an icon embraced by fashion-conscious consumers. The retro-designed shoe box, depicting doctors, hairstylists, and other professionals, continues to convey the original concept to this day and has remained unchanged since its debut.

New Value Born from Scrap Leather

While HARUTA is strongly associated with school shoes, the brand began opening directly managed stores in 2011, putting effort into offering a new concept: "HARUTA for Adults."

Born out of this direction was a playful project: "HARUTAG," accessory parts that let customers easily customize their own coin loafers. By attaching separately sold bits or tassels, a single pair of coin loafers takes on a completely different look. As a manufacturing company, HARUTA had a specific goal behind this initiative.

"Instead of throwing away leather scraps generated during production, we repurpose them into accessories like tassels. The goal is to create new value out of materials that would have otherwise been discarded, and we are thrilled to see our customers embracing it."

This initiative not only provides customers with a new way to enjoy their shoes, but also incorporates a sustainable perspective that minimizes waste. This fresh challenge from a century-old company resonates deeply with modern values.

Japanese-Made Loafers Expanding Worldwide

The appeal of HARUTA is now spreading across borders. Directly managed stores see a steady stream of international visitors, with purchases made by inbound customers from over 50 countries last year alone. Support is particularly strong among people in East Asia, whose body types are similar to Japanese consumers. Supporting this global demand is an impressive range of sizes honed through years of making school shoes.

"As a company providing school shoes, our mission is to offer products fairly to everyone. That's why our strength lies in providing a wide selection of ready-made shoes—from 21.5 cm for women's shoes up to 30 cm for men's shoes—without relying on custom ordering."

The extensive size lineup, born out of a sense of mission to supply shoes to students nationwide, ultimately created a foundation to fit feet from diverse countries. A strength forged by standing by Japanese students for generations has now become a major advantage in the global market.

Having long focused on the student market as its core arena, HARUTA is now setting its sights on further expanding into international markets. One of the key drivers is Japanese pop culture.

"Many of our international customers discover HARUTA through Japanese anime. Seeing the main characters in school uniforms wearing loafers makes them wonder, 'Are those HARUTA shoes?' and sparks their interest."

Building on the foundation of "Made in Japan" quality cultivated over a history of more than 100 years, HARUTA is leveraging modern culture like anime to win over new fans. The brand's traditional craftsmanship looks set to open up exciting new horizons moving forward.