Focusing on the “Tompkins” Series that Incorporates Details from the 1960s of Healthknit

Founded by Edward J. Macmillan in Knoxville, Tennessee, the venerable American brand "Healthknit" has a history of 125 years. It started as a proprietary brand of the company Standard Knitting Mills.

Having maintained three policies of "QUALITY," "STYLES," and "COMFORT" since its inception, it has become a beloved T-shirt and cut-sew brand across the United States and the world after supplying products to the U.S. military.

This time, we will focus on the series made using a knitting machine called “Tompkins,” and Yoshiteru Harada from Healthknit Brands Co., Ltd. will introduce us to the items.

A Texture that Can Only Be Achieved with Tompkins

First, I would like to hear about Tompkins. This knitting machine has been around for quite some time, and it is still in operation at the factory contracted with Healthknit.

"We use an old-style knitting machine made in America, known as Tompkins, which has the major structural feature of knitting slowly from the bottom to the top, in contrast to typical knitting machines. The fabric knitted with this Tompkins features a soft, fluffy texture that fits the body without stress.

"Although it goes against the latest knitting machines that can knit a large amount in a short time, it has a unique texture that only Tompkins can provide, and we are creating several items with that fabric.

"It is made with what is called '裏毛 (Uramoe),' a finish without nap, making it suitable for all-season wear."

Reproducing Specifications from the 1960s while Updating Them for Modern Times

Next, let's look at some items actually made with Tompkins. Most of the items in this collection are based on details from the 1960s, featuring a vintage-like lineup. Let's check them out alongside some valuable deadstock vintage models preserved by Healthknit.

"I would like to start with the crew neck sweat, which is a reproduction of the Healthknit archive sweat from the 1960s.

"One characteristic detail is that the neck features a 'Reinforced Neckline,' which includes an additional layer of reinforcement fabric under the rib to prevent collar distortion. This construction is commonly referred to as an 'Oyako Binder' among vintage enthusiasts in Japan.

"In terms of design, the raglan sleeves have a narrow width to recreate a snug feel around the neck, and the rib seams positioned at the back are also authentically replicated. Additionally, the fabric has been treated to achieve a slightly faded appearance.

"The silhouette is another area of focus; while most vintage sweats from that era are tight-fitting by today’s standards, all items in this series have been updated to a modern relaxed fit."

Please Pay Attention to the Pocket Known as “Dragon Pocket” in This Sweat Hoodie

"Next, I would like to introduce the sweat hoodie. This item is also a reproduction of the Healthknit archive sweat from the 1960s, and while the specifications of the raglan sleeves and the faded feel from the processing are similar to the previous item, its distinctive feature is the pocket design known as 'Dragon Pocket.'

"Typically, standard pockets are attached to the bottom edge of the rib, but the Dragon Pocket is separate from the rib and features a rounded cut at the bottom. Additionally, it is sewn with a vintage-style flat seam (four-needle stitch), which is typical of that era.

"This Dragon Pocket design is not commonly seen in brands other than Healthknit, making it a unique design for the 1960s."

A Vintage-Inspired Hoodie to Enhance Your Style

The most popular item in the recently released Tompkins series is the "Sweatshirt with Hoodie."

This design features details seen from the 1950s to 1960s, with the absolute production numbers being significantly lower compared to crew-neck sweatshirts and hoodies. When vintage items from that era become available, they tend to fetch high prices. Healthknit has reintroduced this design. Let's continue to hear from Harada about this item.

"This model replicates a vintage specification known as the 'Sweatshirt with After-Attached Hoodie,' where a hood and pockets are added to a ready-made crew neck. Details such as the parent-child binders and narrow raglan sleeves from the earlier crew-neck sweatshirt have also been incorporated into this model. While the pockets do not have the drag pocket specification, we have recreated the vintage style using a double needle for stitching.

"The standout feature is the hood, designed to wrap around the crew neck, which gives it a vintage vibe and has received positive feedback. As for the fabric processing, this item undergoes a stronger treatment than others, resulting in a more pronounced fade effect."

Reproducing Sweatpants Originally Used by the U.S. NAVY at Tompkins

We have seen the tops made by Tompkins so far, but this series also includes sweatpants.

"This model is reproduced based on the sweatpants used by the U.S. NAVY in the 1940s.

"The design highlights include a double knee specification with patches sewn from the inside. Other features include a wide waistband rib, often called an 'abdominal band,' and a spindle at the hem for adjustable silhouette.

"Although the original vintage version did not have pockets, we have updated it for modern times, adding pockets on both sides. This item also features processing to achieve a faded texture."

From the historic Healthknit, we've seen a series focused on the Tompkins material. We definitely want you to enjoy the unique texture that can only be achieved with this specific knitting machine. However, it's worth noting that all the products introduced maintain a commitment to vintage-like specifications that have become less common today.

Furthermore, being updated to modern shapes, these pieces can be worn with contemporary flair, which adds to the appeal of the Healthknit brand.