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Exploring the Unexpected Commonalities Between "Heian" & "Reiwa" Fashion Through the Era of "The Tale of Genji"
The "Heian Period" featured in the NHK Taiga drama "Dear Radiance." In a society completely different from today, how did people choose their clothing and live their lives?
We interviewed "Jyoukouin," who has actually revived and wears clothing from that era. Let’s explore the fashion of the mid-Heian period, approximately 1000 years ago, through its design, silhouette, and trends.
PROFILE
Jyoukouin (承香院)
A researcher and practitioner of Heian period and surrounding culture. Engaging in unique research by wearing and practicing the clothing and culture of the Heian era, specializing in sewing and recreating garments from the mid-Heian period, allowing for a personal experience of the lifestyle of that time. Her publications include "あたらしい平安文化の教科書" (Shoeisha) and her X profile: https://x.com/jyoukouin
Experiencing Life from 1000 Years Ago by "Wearing" Heian
What sparked your interest in the Heian period, Jyoukouin?
Born in a regional city where many festivals and ceremonies featuring traditional attire still remain, I developed an interest in Japan's ancient clothing, including the garments worn by samurai such as Kamishimo and armor, along with kimonos.What particularly astonished me was the attire of the noble class living in the court during the Heian period (794-the 12th century), which is also the backdrop of "The Tale of Genji."
The designs, such as Eboshi, Kariginu, and the well-known Junihitoe (twelve-layered robe), are unimaginable by today's standards. Although they are very flamboyant in color, they somehow feel harmonious and possess an air of elegance.
The fashion equation differs from today.
Exactly. Moreover, it served both as "work clothes" and "everyday wear." I pondered how they lived while wearing such clothing. Thus, I began to gather information and started to recreate the "Heian period."Initially, I even cut curtains and sheets to create my own garments. Wearing them brought me a sense of experiencing the feelings of the nobility from that time.
It’s been nearly 20 years since I started these activities. Combining modern materials, I have actually revived garments and tools based on the shapes and designs of the Heian period, played instruments, and participated in events such as poetry gatherings and cherry blossom viewing.
Did Trends from the Era of "The Tale of Genji" Align with Those of Reiwa?
In this article, I would like to explore Heian period fashion from a fashion perspective.
The main focus of my research and practice is the clothing of the aristocracy (Kuge) around the reign of Emperor Ichijo (reigned 986–1011).The male garments include formal wear like "Sokutai" (束帯), which is akin to modern ceremonial attire, the somewhat casual "Noshi" (直衣), and the "Kariginu" (狩衣), which were worn by both commoners and aristocrats for outdoor activities. For women's clothing, there are several types including "Mogaragi" (裳唐衣) (which is almost synonymous with the "Junihitoe" (十二単) and "Tsubo-shozoku" (壺装束).
Among the Heian garments used in general ceremonies, some feature structures that make it difficult to wear alone, such as creating folds in places that are hard to reach.
Indeed, it is entirely different from modern attire.
On the other hand, when you actually "wear" them, you can surprisingly find commonalities with very recent fashion trends.One such similarity is the "loose fit" and "unisex" nature of the clothing. The only notable difference between men's and women's wear pertains to the outer garments, while the inner garment, referred to as "Uchiki" (袿), was common to both genders. There were also instances where both men's and women's bottoms could be the same.
Sizes were mostly limited to child and adult, making it quite normal for couples to borrow each other's clothes.
It does seem very modern.
The clear distinction between male and female attire became particularly pronounced in the medieval period, during what is often referred to as the samurai society. Heian fashion was quite free depending on the occasion."Layering" is another highlight. The simplicity of the garment shapes allowed for self-expression through the combination of materials and colors. The Junihitoe can be regarded as the ultimate in layering, with numerous patterns for the combinations of colors between the front and back of the kimono and the fabric underneath, known as "Kasane" (襲).
Essentially, the more layers one wore, the more dignified the attire became, with those of higher status wearing more casual outfits. The boss would be dressed more relaxed, while subordinates would emphasize formality while enjoying the nuances of layering.
It is said that colors of clothing were restricted according to class.
Indeed, while there are slight variations depending on the era, there were certain colors like "red" and "blue (specific greens)" that could not be worn without imperial permission, termed "Kinshoku" (禁色). There were also regulations regarding the color and shape of the "Ho" (袍) of the Sokutai, the length of the undergarment "Shitagasane" (下襲), and even whether one had to wear a crown or could opt for an "Eboshi" (烏帽子), leading to various clothing restrictions based on the occasion and position.
However, when reading the diaries of the aristocracy, there are frequent mentions such as "I was scolded for my way of wearing clothes" or "that outfit was inappropriate."
This indicates that there was a considerable diversity of garments. Everyday wear was not only casual; within certain bounds at work, people had the luxury of choosing and evaluating outfits based on personal preference.
High-sensibility Colors & Textiles from 1000 Years Ago
Were there trends during the Heian period?
Yes, indeed. The fashion leaders were the "royal family" or influential members within the administration. Since there were people of the same age as today's middle and high school students among the emperors, empresses, and high officials, they were likely very sensitive to fashion.It resembles modern times where court ladies (women serving in the palace) would gossip, and subordinates would imitate the patterns worn by their superiors.
A typical example of a trend was the massive popularity of the color "Kurenai" (紅). All clothing at the time was dyed with plant-based dyes, leading to the extensive consumption of safflower used for red dye, prompting multiple prohibitions on red dyeing.
The creation of garment materials also required high techniques and creativity. In an era without heating and cooling, the designs allowed for breathability in summer fabrics like "Ra" (羅) and "Sha" (紗), which could be likened to "screen doors," enabling fashionable patterns while also being airy.
In winter, layering could trap air to provide warmth. Living while wearing Uchiki feels as comfortable as using a Kotatsu (heated table) while wearing it.
Surprisingly, it might be quite excellent as winter loungewear.
Yes, commuting by train would certainly be a challenge (laughs).However, I think it would be beneficial to utilize modern materials and technologies to continuously recreate and adapt these styles as accessible culture. Isn't it a shame to keep the aesthetic and techniques of the Heian period as something elite and unreachable?
The Future of Heian Fashion Research
What do you hope to achieve in the future?
There are still many mysteries surrounding Heian fashion. "The Tale of Genji" gained attention with the NHK historical drama "Dear Radiance," but many depicted scenes relate to the private lives of nobles, often showcasing attire from their personal spaces.While there are records of clothing for business occasions at places like the imperial palace, specific information similar to that in ancient records is somewhat limited.
There are also many unknowns about summer clothing. The twelve-layered garments we envision today are certainly not suited for the peak of summer, so there must have been staple summer attire.
However, detailed information regarding ceremonial and event attire during summer is scarce, making research challenging. I look forward to exploring diaries and records written by nobles to relive their experiences.
Through fashion, I felt a little closer to the era of 1000 years ago.
Throughout history, humans have worked, experienced love, and lived while feeling beauty and challenges. I focus on studying the customs and culture of the Heian period, particularly emphasizing "practice," trying not to be overly academic.Utilizing this personal approach, I aspire to widely share the allure of the Heian period not only within academic circles but also with the general public and individuals from completely different fields.
Interestingly, fashion a thousand years from now may be reminiscent of the Heian period.
Text by GANTAN
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