"I Want to Express the Beauty of the East" – An Interview with HEōS Designer Shoma Akatsukigawa

Recently gaining significant presence at "Fashion Week TOKYO", the brand "HEōS" has been attracting attention.

The 2025 Spring/Summer collection, held at Hikarie Hall, received high acclaim both domestically and internationally, creating quite the buzz.

This time, we conducted an interview with designer Shoma Akatsukigawa, discussing the brand's inception and this season’s design work.

The Roots of Akatsukigawa, the Backbone of HEōS

HEōS started in 2020, but to understand its backbone, let’s explore Akatsukigawa’s roots.

"I am originally from China and came to Japan at the age of 19. At that time, I loved wearing Tokyo's 'Ura-Hara brands.' As I grew a bit older, I started to appreciate 'John Galliano' and 'Maison Margiela.'

"I studied design at 'Tokyo Mode Gakuen' and worked as a pattern maker for an apparel company in Tokyo for a few years. Later, I transitioned to a Japanese brand participating in 'Paris Fashion Week' and had the experience of Paris Collection there.

"Afterward, I became an independent freelance pattern maker and designer, creating patterns for Japanese brands and designing for luxury brands in China while holding exhibitions in Paris. For a while, I lived between Tokyo and Guangzhou, China.

"During that time, when the pandemic hit and everything came to a halt, I returned to Tokyo and started HEōS at that moment."

Participation in Fashion Week TOKYO

Thus began HEōS. While the designs stand out, the fabrics are also original creations from scratch, releasing many impressive pieces never seen before.

How is this unique worldview expressed, and what was it like to participate in Fashion Week TOKYO for the first time?

"HEōS doesn't specifically create concepts, but we try not to resemble typical Tokyo brands too much. It's difficult to concretely define what 'Tokyo brand-like' means, but we aim for a balance that's not too street and not too haute couture. We want to incorporate an artisan feel and warmth from handcrafting while capturing a certain androgynous atmosphere.

"The first time we presented our collection on the runway at Fashion Week TOKYO was in 2022, for the 2023 Autumn/Winter season. The theme of this collection was inspired by the story of modernization in China where 28,000 rivers have disappeared, expressing the relationship between nature and humanity.

"Using original textiles made from natural materials and recycled materials, we created designs based on traditional Chinese shoes called 'Qixie,' hand-sewn by artisans, and items inspired by 'Sun Yat-sen,' a figure related to the founding of the Republic of China, which allowed me to reflect my roots in this collection."

Fourth Participation in Fashion Week TOKYO

Now let’s discuss the latest runway for the 2025 Spring/Summer collection, which marked the fourth participation in Fashion Week TOKYO.

"The theme is 'Nightmare,' reflecting the era marked by ongoing wars in a dark fantasy world.

"Using keywords like midnight, dreams, and nightmares, we aimed to create an atmosphere reminiscent of cinematic scenes.

"In terms of garment creation, we incorporated artworks from young Chinese artists into our textiles and extensively used natural materials such as silk and cashmere.

"One particular fabric utilizes thin wool with a printed pattern that undergoes a salt shrinkage process, making the sewing stage quite intricate.

"Additionally, there is a setup with butterfly embroidery that has been well-received, where the wings are subtly cut out.

"Design-wise, I believe there are many items that are easy to wear as casual outfits with a military taste as well."

Changes through Participation in Fashion Week TOKYO

At the HEōS runway venue, many fashion professionals from abroad can be seen. We asked how the environment surrounding the brand has changed before and after participating in Fashion Week TOKYO.

"We've seen an increase in Instagram followers, and buyers from select shops in London have contacted us and visited our atelier. There are not only select shops in Japan but also stores in Macau and Shanghai, and we are currently in discussions with select shops in Guangzhou. I think our recognition both domestically and internationally is gradually increasing."

HEōS is known for its unique clothing production, often utilized as costumes by various artists, including well-known Japanese artists and live costumes for international artists.

Looking ahead, it seems that for the next season, they are considering a different method of presentation, not a runway.

There are many possible approaches, but Akatsukigawa stated, "I want to express the beauty of the East." It’s a personality that he can convey due to his understanding of the cultures of both China and Japan.

In the near future, HEōS may take the Asian fashion scene by storm.