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Ayumi Hamasaki Captivates with the Costumes Created by Designer Hirosumi Saito, Enhancing Their Charm
Hirosumi Saito, who creates stage costumes for top artists, as well as costumes for theme parks, commercials, and events, is responsible for the outfits of Japan's songstress "Ayumi Hamasaki" and the emerging idol group "FRUITS ZIPPER."
Using meticulously chosen materials, the stunning costumes crafted through abundant creativity instill confidence in the wearers and captivate the audience. With robust support from artists, his ability is well recognized.
How has Saito carved a path as a costume designer? We explored his journey and the behind-the-scenes of his work.
PROFILE
Hirosumi Saito
While performing in Tokyo's club culture, Saito began self-studying costume design, drawing on the sensibility he developed from practicing the Ohara School of Ikebana since childhood. He has wide-ranging experience, from working with artists like Ayumi Hamasaki, Kiyoshi Hikawa, Naomi Watanabe, to providing costumes for director Mika Ninagawa's movies like "xxxHOLiC" and "Diner," and overseeing costumes for Japan's representative theme parks, the "One Piece" ice show, and the Tokyo 2020 Paralympic Games closing ceremony. Recently, he has gained media attention as a costume designer, being featured in programs like "Jonetsu Tairiku" and magazines like "SO-EN."
Costume Design as a Turning Point in Life
Hirosumi Saito, who has loved unique and flamboyant fashion since childhood, became increasingly interested in Harajuku style and overseas underground fashion during high school.After moving to Tokyo for university, he started frequenting clubs. He describes this choice as influenced by the diversity of creators he encountered in these spaces, differing in age and position, which he found fascinating.
"For someone like me, who is shy, flamboyant clothing became a communication tool. Even if I couldn't express my thoughts verbally, just by wearing unique fashion at the club, I could connect with others who appreciated my style, and I'd often hear comments like, 'What an interesting outfit!' I felt comfortable in that environment."
As he delved into extravagant clothing, he began making his own costumes. Although he was studying business administration at university, his fashion journey started through self-learning. Winning several "Halloween Costume Contests," which were held frequently at clubs, allowed him to expand his activities as a costume designer.
Saito excels in creating bold and fetishistic costumes that reflect a dark aesthetic. However, it's important to note that his designs are not just about flamboyance; he has a remarkable sense of balance in adding and subtracting elements. The spatial awareness apparent in his designs stems from the Ikebana skills he cultivated from childhood.
"My costumes are quite extravagant, but they aren't just accumulations of flashy elements. I think about what I want to showcase most and only add necessary components to create a synergy. I believe my ability to create 'bold yet easily understandable concept designs' comes from the Ikebana principle of 'thinning out' things to enhance clarity."
Doing What Can Be Done Until the End, Even on Tight Schedules
Although he often receives short-term requests, Saito finds it stimulating and fun, stating, "Being tested on my adaptability in those situations is exciting." Sometimes, he receives 20 to 30 costume orders within a month from the idol group "FRUITS ZIPPER," for which he currently designs costumes.When stylists or producers consult him about costume images, he swiftly sketches designs to propose. To respond quickly, he is constantly brainstorming different ideas even before consultations happen.
The butterfly-themed costume worn by FRUITS ZIPPER during the Japan Record Awards last year was one of the designs he had been nurturing long before. It was intended for a grand stage, perfectly aligning with the theme of "taking flight to a new stage" propagated by the group's management.
This costume is a grand project made using over 10 types of fabrics, including tweed and sequins, with around 150 parts involved. Creating just one outfit requires an enormous amount of work, and since seven outfits were needed for all the members, it totaled more than 1,000 parts.
About 20 craftsmen collaborated, each taking on tasks such as pattern drawing, patchwork, decoration, and making accessories, all working 24 hours to advance the production.
"I believe the key to idol costumes is to create the perfect balance that makes them look cute, while also ensuring the design stands out with impact. While the shape may be traditional, it's packed with detailed intricacies that are noticeable upon close inspection.
"I'm confident that they will definitely pull off these outfits, so I actively incorporate tricky designs that are not commonly adopted in idol costumes, continually brainstorming new designs. Additionally, using widely favored materials can diminish the sense of uniqueness, so I often create originals with materials that other artists have yet to use."
Veteran artists have a trained eye for materials honed through years of experience. It’s suggested that when presenting materials, if they are not unique, they might not evoke a response, but when offered something special, they can be adopted immediately at first sight.
Ayumi Hamasaki, for whom Saito designs costumes, is one artist known for her keen sensitivity towards materials. She personally cares about the material selection and pursues the highest quality in the finished costumes. It is not uncommon for changes to be made to the costumes even during the show itself.
“For last year’s concert in China, I received a request for costumes inspired by a Chinese dress. I created over 100 design proposals and shared the final image while reflecting the detailed requests I received. Hamasaki is someone who pursues quality as the work progresses, so sometimes the costume design is completely different by the time of the first fitting compared to the final performance.
"It’s not uncommon to make adjustments to the costumes on the day of the show. Between the first and second performances in China, and during the costume changes, I've had to work on modifications down to the second. While it can be challenging when time is tight, I believe it is this persistence that creates the best stage performance. I think the key is to 'deliver costumes that the performers can be satisfied with,' so I continuously strive to get closer to the ideal right up until just before the performance."
Enhancing the Wearer's Charisma through Costumes
When creating a show, many people are involved, from artists and performers to costume designers, lighting, and sound. The moment everything links beautifully on stage transforms into an incomparably joyous experience. Saito describes the allure of being a costume designer as follows:“A wonderful artist or performer can become even more stunning when wearing the right costume. When the charm of the individual merges with the costume and the overall creation, it brings a deep sense of fulfillment. Nowadays, through social media, we directly receive feedback from those who watch the costumes on shows and programs. It brings me great joy to find comments that decipher the underlying messages we've embedded in the costumes.”
Looking ahead, Saito expresses a desire to “challenge pure creative activities without constraints.” She also has a passionate interest in nurturing the next generation.
“I feel that the number of people aspiring to become costume designers is gradually decreasing. It’s a challenging profession, and the hurdles may seem high, but overcoming them leads to invaluable experience and skills, marking the true delight in endless creation.
"There are indeed those with exceptional talent, but in most cases, steady accumulation of experience is key. Although there's a trend to seek quick results these days, I believe that if one steadily hones their skills and builds on failures and successes, a moment will come when they bloom. I would be delighted if they continue to persevere in their pursuits of creation.”
Hirosumi Saito, who harbors a deep passion for the work of a costume designer, will continue to enhance the charm of the wearers with her lavishly detailed costumes, enchanting all who see them.
Header caption image right: ©ASOBISYSTEM CO., LTD. / Image left: ©AMG
Text by Rika Okuyama
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