An Incredible Lineup of Vintage Boots! A Look Inside HOPESMORE

Located near the Mishuku intersection in Tokyo sits HOPESMORE. Step inside, and you’re immediately struck by the sheer number of vintage boots filling the store. It's a truly breathtaking sight.

We sat down with the owner, Norihiko Fukushima, to chat about his vision for the shop and ask about his favorite boots.

The Origins of Vintage Boot Specialist HOPESMORE

To understand the story behind HOPESMORE, we asked Fukushima about his background.

"This shop opened in October 2010. The name HOPESMORE comes from an area in British Columbia, Canada, called Hopesmore Place. I chose the name because my host family lived in that district when I was studying abroad there.

Before I set up shop in Mishuku, I started out with an online store from my studio apartment in Komazawa back in 2006. At the time, I was also selling vintage clothes, which is different from what I do now.

I did carry boots, of course, but I treated them as a seasonal item—I'd gather them before winter and aim to sell out by the time the season ended.

But even then, I had this vision of opening a store that specialized in boots, and I was already starting to work toward that goal."

The Breathtaking Collection of "RED WING"

Looking around the shop, you can't help but notice the vast number of "RED WING" boots and their powerful presence. It's a clear testament to Fukushima's passion.

Many customers visit daily, specifically seeking out these RED WING boots. Has focusing primarily on RED WING been the shop's approach since it first opened?

"Besides RED WING, we also carry brands like 'WESCO BOOTS,' 'WHITE'S BOOTS,' 'RUSSELL,' and 'CHIPPEWA.' But when you focus on American work boot brands, you inevitably end up with a large number of RED WINGs. Currently, I think they account for nearly 75 to 80 percent of our inventory."

"I've always been a huge fan of fashion, and I was especially into Air Jordan basketball shoes.

Back in middle school, I’d take my New Year's gift money and head straight to Harajuku to buy a pair of Air Jordans. There was a famous shop in Harajuku back then called Tomahawk Chop, and it was just packed to the brim with Air Jordans.

That incredible sight is still burned into my memory. It was the impact of seeing that massive collection that inspired me to do something similar, but this time with boots.

I guess when I started, I really wanted to shake things up in the fashion world."

A Passion and Curiosity for Unraveling the History of RED WING

Let's dive in and take a look at some boots from different eras, exploring the materials and unique features of their time.

"I loved my Air Jordans, but I was also a big fan of RED WING's Engineer Boots and owned a pair in high school. But when I bought a new pair of RED WING Engineer Boots as an adult, I couldn't help but feel that 'something was different.'

RED WING is a brand with over 100 years of history, so naturally, the leather tanning methods and construction have changed over time. The design of the name tags and the text on them are different, too. For brands like Levi's, for example, you have enthusiasts who meticulously classify the differences between vintage models by era. But back then, I don't think anyone was really looking at RED WING boots with that same level of detail.

That's when I started to think that maybe this was my calling. Driven by what felt like a sense of mission, I began collecting vintage RED WINGs and researching all the subtle differences.

For a long time, the lot number for the Engineer Boots was 2268, but that model has now been discontinued. Maybe because you can't buy the 2268 new anymore, Engineer Boots are seeing a resurgence in popularity.

So, let's compare a pair from around 1994-1996 with a 2017 model and check out the subtle differences.

While there are variations in things like the shape of the belt buckle, the biggest difference lies in the leather tanning process. The 1990s Engineer Boots are only dyed black on the surface, so the cross-section of the leather retains its natural color. In contrast, the 2017 model is 'core-dyed'—known as *shintoshi*—meaning the black dye penetrates all the way to the core of the leather.

Both styles have their own merits. The older boots show their age more readily. As you wear them in, they develop a brownish undertone and cracking, letting you enjoy that classic leather aging process.

The more recent models have a thicker surface coating and more resilient leather, making them incredibly durable. This just goes to show that RED WING Engineer Boots from every era have their own unique appeal."

"You can also date RED WING boots just by looking at the name tag. If you compare the same boot model, for instance, the 1990s versions only have a name tag in one boot, while the 2017 version has them in both.

Starting in late 1992, the name tags on the boots were marked with 'PT91.' This marking indicates the steel toe specification and was updated roughly every eight years, with the key cutoffs being 1983, 1991, and 1999.

What's more, up until mid-1993/1994, the boots had a stamp on the inside, but this was omitted during the 1994-1996 period. This means if you find a model with the PT91 tag but no internal stamp, you know it was made between 1994 and 1996.

On the 2017 boots, conversely, you'll see '0117' at the bottom of the name tag. This tells you it was shipped from the factory in January 2017.

Back then, there wasn't really a community or resource for sharing this kind of knowledge—deciphering the era from the specs and tags on RED WING boots. So, I had to build up my expertise one piece at a time, asking myself, 'What makes this different?' and 'Where are the variations?'

It was honestly a ton of work at the time, but looking back on it, the whole process was fascinating."

More Than Just Engineer Boots: A Lineup of RED WING Classics

HOPESMORE doesn't just stock Engineer Boots; it boasts an extensive collection of other classic RED WING models. Let's take a look at a few more.

"RED WINGs are always in high demand, and we get a lot of customers coming in specifically for models they couldn't get their hands on back in the day, like the 'Irish Setter' (a nickname) and the 'Pecos.'"

"Other popular styles include the 'Postman' and the 'Postman Chukka.' The Postman we're featuring here is a 2021 model, but the style has a very long history, originally released back in 1954 as a service shoe.

The 'Postman Chukka,' model number 9196, has already been discontinued. Because of that, they tend to sell out pretty quickly whenever we get them in stock."

Meticulous Care for Every Pair of Boots

At HOPESMORE, every pair of boots undergoes a meticulous care process upon arrival. A quick glance at the items on display reveals the exceptional level of maintenance they receive.

"Here, we clean the soles of every incoming pair with a special detergent, remove any dirt or mold from the welt and interior, and then sterilize them using UV light. Afterward, we polish the uppers with oils and creams specifically chosen for each type of leather.

We put a great deal of effort into our care process, so you can shop with confidence."

The shop's location at the Mishuku intersection is a bit of a walk from both Ikejiri-Ohashi and Sangen-jaya stations. Despite this, there's a constant stream of customers coming and going, and the store is always buzzing with activity. This is the ultimate testament to the shop's undeniable charm.

Why not visit and find your own special pair, the kind you'll only discover at HOPESMORE?