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Unraveling the History of HOUSTON, the First Brand in Japan to Pioneer Military Wear, Spanning Over Half a Century

2025.05.28
Items like "MA-1" and "M-65 JACKET" continue to be influential across all kinds of modern fashion genres as essential military wear. After World War II, surplus U.S. military wear began circulating in Japan, and eventually, Japanese-made flight jackets emerged as fashion pieces.
The brand that made this happen is "HOUSTON," which we’re featuring this time. We spoke with Yu Sasaki and Kasumi Kimura from the PR team at Union Trading Co., Ltd. about the story behind the brand’s beginnings and its latest releases.

Launching with Surplus U.S. Military Gear & Imported Vintage Jeans

Let’s start by exploring how the HOUSTON brand came to be. Yu Sasaki shared this story dating back to 1947.
"Our company was founded in Omiya Ward, Saitama City, Saitama Prefecture. Back then, there were several U.S. military bases in Saitama, and the founder—being a fashion enthusiast—started by sourcing surplus U.S. military wear, imported vintage jeans, flannel shirts, and more, opening the shop under the name 'Makino Shokai.' That was the start of it all."

Japan’s First Domestically Made Military Wear: The "Aviation Jumper"

Makino Shokai, the predecessor to HOUSTON, is said to have created the very first military wear in Japan. The keyword here is the "Aviation Jumper." Let’s continue with the story.
"In the late 1950s, we upgraded our sewing facilities and began producing winter workwear. We created items like the 'Castro Coat,' which was basically the origin of today’s insulated workwear. By the 1960s, we introduced an item called the 'Aviation Jumper,' modeled after the MA-1, which became recognized as Japan’s first domestically produced military wear."
The left side of the photo has the original Aviation Jumper; the right is the reissued version released for the brand’s 45th anniversary.

The HOUSTON Brand Launches—Staying True to MADE IN JAPAN

The rise of domestically produced military wear began with the Aviation Jumper. The HOUSTON name was officially adopted in 1972, marking the brand’s official start. Over time, as the brand’s scale grew and production bases expanded, there are still products they have kept making from the start.
"When we first began producing military wear in-house, we made items such as the 'DECK JACKET,' 'M-65 JACKET,' 'BDU JACKET,' and 'HBT SHIRTS.' These iconic pieces are still regularly released to this day.
"Among them, the DECK JACKET has been continuously produced in our own Japanese factories since those early days, and within the HOUSTON community, this made-in-Japan DECK JACKET is especially valued."
N-1 DECK JACKET -regular model-, 32,780 yen (tax included)
Photo left:
M-65 JACKET with LINER, 27,280 yen (tax included)
Photo center:
RIPSTOP BDU JACKET, 7,590 yen (tax included)
Photo right:
The "FRENCH ARMY M-47 JACKET," made of the same fabric as the HBT SHIRTS, which is now a staple item.
FRENCH ARMY M-47 JACKET, 9,790 yen (tax included)
Scenes from the HOUSTON in-house factory producing the DECK JACKET

2 Pillars Define HOUSTON: Military Wear & Americana

Since its Makino Shokai days, HOUSTON has built its brand along two main lines: military wear and Americana-inspired items like jeans and flannel shirts. Next, Kimura introduces some top spring and summer picks that truly capture HOUSTON’s vibe.
"When people hear 'military,' they usually picture fall and winter styles, but for spring and summer, we recommend something a little different. The so-called 'Sukajan' or 'Souvenir Jacket' motif, especially the popular 'ALASKA' graphic, has been reimagined for our 'SOUVENIR SHIRT.' It’s a particular recommendation."
SOUVENIR S/S SHIRT (ALASKA), 10,780 yen (tax included)
"Among our Americana pieces, the 'BOWLING SHIRT' is a crowd favorite. Its design features embroidery with the name of San Gabriel, a city in California, and uses bowling pin-shaped buttons for vintage authenticity."
BOWLING S/S SHIRT (SAN GABRIEL), 10,780 yen (tax included)

One of the Finest Masterpieces of Japanese Patterns: "ALOHA SHIRT" (One Hundred Tigers)

Let's take a look at another American casual summer item that has become a hot topic. HOUSTON has recreated and released one of the most famous patterns among vintage aloha shirts.
"Known as one of the greatest masterpieces of Japanese patterns, the so-called 'Hyakutora'—One Hundred Tigers. This 'ALOHA SHIRT' features the striking design of tigers across the entire shirt. Like the DECK JACKET we just discussed, this item is also produced domestically."
ALOHA SHIRT (One Hundred Tigers), 20,680 yen (tax included)
We were introduced to HOUSTON's history and their recommended items for this summer. Originally, they started by selling surplus U.S. military items famous for their durability as fashion pieces, and now, the HOUSTON brand has been carried on for three generations.
While maintaining their renowned quality, they update aspects like silhouette, materials, and features to fit contemporary trends. As the first brand in Japan to produce military wear, HOUSTON continues to build on its legacy while staying true to its roots in both military and American casual fashion. Without a doubt, their story will keep evolving.

PROFILE

Yu Sasaki

UNION TRADING Co., Ltd. PR Representative

Handles PR for the military and American casual brand HOUSTON and manages their online store as well.

PROFILE

Kasumi Kimura

UNION TRADING Co., Ltd. PR Representative

In addition to corporate public relations, she is in charge of PR for products and the brand. In recent years, she has been actively promoting the brand’s women’s line, "HOUSTON woman," to expand its recognition.

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