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What Is the Goal of the Made-to-Order Suit Label "illbe"? Initiated by a Former J-League Player

2025.01.30
The personal made-to-order suit label "illbe" was launched in 2021. It was founded by former professional soccer player Tomoyasu Hirose, who played for Montedio Yamagata and Tokushima Vortis.
 
We spoke with Hirose about why he chose the fashion industry as his second career, the reasons behind starting a suit label, and his future aspirations.

Dissonance Lingering Despite Turning Pro After High School

Born in Saitama, Hirose was on the path of a soccer elite since elementary school and went on to attend Maebashi Ikuei High School, a powerhouse that won the national high school soccer championship this New Year. Even before admission, the soccer team coach, Kosuke Yamada, personally visited him.
 
"Although I was playing matches from my first year at Maebashi Ikuei and leading a smooth sailing soccer life, my wheels began to falter due to a hamstring injury in my third year."
 
He was selected for the U-18 Japan national team in January 2008 and participated in the Qatar International Youth Tournament, but the dissonance remained. Even after joining Montedio Yamagata right after high school, he continued to doubt his abilities.
©MONTEDIO YAMAGATA—Right after graduating from Maebashi Ikuei High School, he joined Montedio Yamagata. Hirose learned about the joys of apparel from seniors during his days in Yamagata
"Around that time, I realized my professional soccer career would be short, so I asked the team to make business cards and started meeting people from various industries to expand my network."
 
The action of exchanging business cards to let people know who he was and gather more valuable information to foster his growth reflected a sense of crisis about his unstable career as a professional.
 
In the Japanese national lineup for the U-23 at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics held in July 2017, his name did not appear.
 
"Although I wasn't selected for the Asian qualifiers, I thought there was a chance. However, when I couldn't get involved, I realized reaching the top wouldn't be possible."
©TOKUSHIMA VORTIS—He was introduced to the apparel world by Kiyoshi Yamaguchi, president of "NALUTO TRUNKS," which he encountered during his Tokushima Vortis era
In his seventh pro year, Hirose transferred to Tokushima Vortis, a team that was promoted to J1 in 2014. Yet, he only played in three league matches this season and got relegated to J2 within a year. Realizing his career would end as a player oscillating between J1 and J2, he began considering his second career.
 
"I've always loved clothes and wanted to jump into the apparel world after retiring. I wished to start learning from scratch."
 
He had the opportunity to seek advice from Kiyoshi Yamaguchi, president of the apparel brand "NALUTO TRUNKS" which deals with trunks and swimwear, in Tokushima through an acquaintance. Initially, he was turned away.
 
"Even after repeatedly expressing my enthusiasm to Kiyoshi, I kept getting dismissed [laughs]. However, he gradually opened up, and when I decided to retire, I consulted him first. He suggested, if I was serious about learning the basics of manufacturing, I should go to 'TOMORROWLAND' and immediately made a call to their contact person, arranging my interview after the season ended."
 
Retiring as a pro soccer player on January 31, 2016, he took his first step into the world of apparel as a shop staff at "TOMORROWLAND Lumine Yurakucho" in February of the same year.

"illbe," a High-Flexibility Suggestive Made-to-order Suit Label

Hirose joined "TOMORROWLAND" as a mid-career entrant. In the unfamiliar world, he was indeed perplexed at first. Though initially experiencing many failures, his effort honed his skills, and within just two years of joining, he grew to become a consistent top monthly seller.
©KAORI TOMABECH—During his time as a salesperson at TOMORROWLAND. He learned about dress rules and suit knowledge, becoming a top salesman within the company
"At Tomorrowland, I absorbed knowledge about dresses and honed my sales skills. However, even after entering the apparel industry, I vaguely felt a desire to give back to the soccer and sports world that nurtured me."
 
After working at "Tomorrowland" for five and a half years, I decided to join Murmuration Co., Ltd., a company founded by a senior colleague. Murmuration is engaged in planning and designing apparel goods for sports teams, including the J-League.
 
"It aligned with what I wanted to do, and shortly after joining, I worked on the team suits for Omiya Ardija VENTUS (women's team), which led me to launch the custom suit label 'I'll be' in September 2021. We have since changed the name to 'illbe.'"
The upper half is a cotton-based double-breasted set-up blended with linen. The lower half is a 100% wool tweed suit. The suits from "illbe" offer high flexibility, with generous width and wider pants.
"At 'illbe,' you can have custom suits tailored to your body's lines, which is the basic service, but we also offer styles that incorporate current trends, like wide pants. 'illbe' is a proposal-based custom suit label that doesn't stick to rules, making its high degree of freedom one of its attractions.
 
"Another appealing aspect is the improvisational feel unique to custom orders. Deciding on items, styles, and fabrics while talking with customers and feeling the collaborative aspect of creating something together can only be experienced through custom orders."
 
Hirose also handles the official formal wear for his old team, Montedio Yamagata, where he proposes some unique ideas.
©MONTEDIO YAMAGATA—The formal wear for Montedio Yamagata crafted by "illbe" embodies high flexibility, with a navy blazer as its base. The jacket adopts "Yonezawa Ori," a traditional craft, and the knits are made by "Yonetomi Seni," a Yamagata company.
"Even when I was a player, we had team suits, but we only wore them at team events. Therefore, I wanted to create something players could use in various scenes and even in their second careers. We've created a timeless navy blazer using 'Yonezawa Ori,' a traditional industry in Yamagata, and with the cooperation of 'Yonetomi Seni,' a Yamagata company, we've crafted knit vests. For the 2024SS pants, we've adopted 'illbe's easy pants using 'Yonezawa Ori' seersucker fabric.
©murmuration Co.,Ltd—The blazer adopts "Yonezawa Ori" fabric made by "Aobun Textile," a textile manufacturer in Yamagata. This serves as a token of gratitude to local businesses.
"The ability to mix and match for various scenes is a major feature. I proposed a shape that doesn’t confine to the typical team suit model."
 
Hirose’s ideal embraces giving back to both the traditional industries of Yamagata and the soccer world.

The Unchanging Desire to Give Back to the Soccer World

Currently, he is also working on team suits for the professional rugby team Urayasu D-Rocks. Utilizing connections from his playing days, he also creates individual suits for current and former professional soccer players, professional baseball players, and actors, fully leveraging his accumulated experience.
©TF At "TF" shop in Gohongi, near Gakugei Daigaku Station, they jointly create black suits, and host order meetings and other lively events.
At "illbe," they also sponsor "MY FOOTBALL KIT" organized by "molten," widely known for its sports balls, continuing social contribution activities. "MY FOOTBALL KIT" involves companies and organizations gifting assemble-type balls to children attending special needs schools or orphanages, allowing them to experience the appeal of sports and nurture rich thinking skills. Hirose explains:
 
"I didn’t just want to make clothes; I wanted to give back to the soccer world through my business and contribute to creating a society where children can equally pursue their dreams. I was moved by the amazing products and support for children and the message behind it. I plan to continue promoting 'MY FOOTBALL KIT' further."
©murmuration Co.,Ltd—Participates in social contribution activities organized by "molten" through "MY FOOTBALL KIT." In August 2024, the sale of collaboration balls between "MY FOOTBALL KIT" and "illbe" also started.
Hirose, who made a stunning transition from being a professional soccer player, how does he feel about the second career for professional athletes?
 
"Firstly, the term 'second career' feels a bit heavy to me. Even after a professional career ends, the cycle of setting and achieving goals continues endlessly as long as one is alive. Everyone changes jobs, and if someone transitions to a different industry, that too becomes a second career. It's something that can happen to anyone.
"However, I believe those who have aimed to go pro in their field often have the ability to set clear goals and work towards them. I hope they'll courageously leap into their next world without fear."
 
Hirose has steadily advanced from being a professional soccer player to an apparel salesperson, and now as the director of a bespoke suit label. Recently, he's been collaborating with the shop "TF" in Gohongi, Meguro, to launch black suits. Are there any plans for further collaborations in the future?
 
"I can't reveal the details yet, but there are several projects I'm working on. I'm eager to actively pursue collaborations, so please look forward to it."
 
When asked about his aspirations for the future, Hirose responded with great conviction.
©murmuration Co., Ltd—"If I can somehow give back to the world of soccer and sports that nurtured me..." Hirose says.
"A major goal is for 'illbe' to become a globally recognized brand. On a more practical level, I want to establish 'illbe's' position as a bespoke apparel brand. Additionally, I'm considering expanding into ready-made products that reflect the sports culture I've been part of. Eventually, I aim to establish a style that mixes these two aspects."
 
Hirose has set ambitious goals and achieved them. The fruits of his efforts, diving into unknown worlds, are uniquely his. We're eager to see how he continues to add color to his bespoke label "illbe."

PROFILE

Tomoyasu Hirose

"illbe" Director

A former professional soccer player from Saitama Prefecture. He joined Montedio Yamagata straight out of high school in 2008, then transferred to Tokushima Vortis. He retired at the young age of 26 in 2016. After retirement, he entered the apparel industry and launched his own bespoke suit label "illbe" in 2021, where he continues to work to this day.

Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)

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