Liberating Tabi From Kimono Culture: How ISAMI's "The Knit Tabi" Opens New Possibilities for Tabi

Isami Corporation, a tabi manufacturer with over a century of history, has launched a new brand, ISAMI, and released "The Knit Tabi," a fresh take on footwear crafted from knit fabric.

Why did a company that has spent generations weaving a symbol of Japanese tradition take on materials and manufacturing methods from a completely different field? We spoke with Kaito Tsuchiya, Senior Managing Director leading ISAMI, about the craftsmanship and vision behind liberating tradition for the future.

"Even Kimono Wearers Aren't Wearing Them": The Untold Reality of the Tabi Industry

In 2021, Tsuchiya joined Isami Corporation from a different industry after being asked to "do something about the tabi business." Since its founding in 1907, tabi manufacturing had remained the company's core enterprise. However, what he witnessed on the ground was a reality far harsher than imagined.

As he conducted market research, a shocking fact came to light: even kimono enthusiasts—the main target audience for traditional Japanese wear—were no longer wearing traditional "oka-tabi" like those produced by the company.

Most people were opting for inexpensive, foreign-made stretch tabi priced at just a few hundred yen. Tabi were even being treated as free giveaways bundled with high-end kimono sales.

"As I tried various approaches, I realized that even people who wear kimono weren't wearing proper tabi. If we kept making conventional oka-tabi without anyone left to wear them, the craft of tabi-making cultivated over more than a century would be lost from our culture forever. That was how I felt."

The traditional tabi industry was deeply rooted in mass-producing set patterns, leaving little room to innovate. With the market in continuous decline, simply preserving tradition offered no future. Recognizing this challenge became the catalyst for creating the new brand ISAMI, launched with the core message of "Liberating what is fading away."

Pivoting Away from the Kimono Industry: Targeting the Sweet Spot Between Socks and Tabi

Deciding on a bold new path, ISAMI's first major choice was to stop relying on the traditional kimono trade. The brand shifted its target to modern consumers who had never worn tabi before, setting out to develop an entirely new category of footwear.

The goal was a product that was "neither a sock nor a conventional tabi." This idea stemmed from a deep understanding of both footwear types. Socks are convenient, but foot pressure tends to disperse while walking. Tabi, on the other hand, feature a split-toe design and stitching that firmly supports the instep, allowing the wearer to exert force as if gripping the ground. However, traditional tabi use non-stretch cotton, which can make feet feel tight and constricted as they swell toward the evening.

ISAMI sought a middle ground that combined sock-like comfort with the distinct functional benefits of tabi.

"If we leaned too far in either direction, we'd just get swallowed up by that market. If we moved too close to socks, we wouldn't have a competitive edge; if we leaned too much toward traditional oka-tabi, it wouldn't feel like a new product. That middle ground was precisely what consumers were looking for. Being able to craft that in-house is our pride as a 100-year-old company."

Comfortable enough for everyday wear while delivering the unique feel of tabi—this concept became the backbone of "The Knit Tabi."

Cross-Regional Collaboration and the "Sewing Wall" Standing in the Way

The key to realizing the concept lay in the material. Chosen as a partner was Mitsumoto Textile, a knit manufacturer in Mitsuke City, Niigata Prefecture. Together with the company, with whom they originally traded for school uniform sweaters, they set out to develop a knit fabric specifically for tabi using the polyester yarn "Amossa®". The biggest challenge was breathability and moisture management. To ensure comfortable wear year-round, they sought a material with high breathability and quick-drying properties similar to those used in activewear.

However, the biggest obstacle lay within their own manufacturing floor. For many years, ISAMI Corporation's factory had specialized in sewing woven fabrics. Lacking the know-how to handle soft, delicate knits, the initial phase was a constant process of trial and error.

"At first, things really didn't go well, and we couldn't sew it properly at all. The seams would come out crooked and uneven. We brought in sewing machines specifically for knits and crafted sample after sample until we finally reached a level where we felt the appearance was good enough."

They developed custom patterns and incorporated a design that meticulously calculated the fabric's stretch ratio. Flat elastic with minimal tightness was used at the opening to recreate the classic, gentle wrapping sensation of traditional tabi. The sewing techniques born from this trial and error are currently carried out by about two skilled craftspeople. Through the dual engines of cross-regional collaboration and the application of in-house craftsmanship, the ideal fit and feel finally came into view.

A New Sense of Comfort That Captivated Even the Makers Themselves

Released in June 2026, "The Knit Tabi" produced immediate results. At their directly managed store in Kawagoe, it overwhelmingly outpaced other products in popularity, becoming a true game-changer for the brand. The fact that sales at the physical store—where customers can hold and try on the product—surpassed online sales serves as proof that its unique comfort is truly appreciated.

Customers have also shared positive feedback about enjoying fashion across seasons, with comments such as, "I'm so glad I can keep wearing the sandals I bought even after summer ends."

Yet what brought Tsuchiya the greatest joy was the internal shift within the company.

"What made me happiest was seeing the craftspeople in our factory all wearing the knit tabi while they worked. They bought the product we crafted ourselves, wore it, and truly experienced its quality firsthand. I always believed that if our own team doesn't love it, no one else will, so that was incredibly gratifying."

Born from taking on a new challenge, this product not only brought fresh value to the everyday lives of wearers, but also fostered a deep sense of pride among the creators themselves.

The success of "The Knit Tabi" is just the beginning for ISAMI. Looking ahead, there are plans to connect with an even broader range of craft regions—such as shoe manufacturers in Nara and Nambu ironware artisans in Iwate—centering around "tabi" to create innovative new products.

Redefining conventional ideas of footwear, ISAMI serves as a hub linking Japanese craft industries while continuing to expand the concept of tabi. Tradition is not merely something to preserve; by setting it free, it connects to the future. ISAMI's bold venture powerfully demonstrates that potential.