The History & Evolution of Jack Purcell, Celebrating Its 90th Anniversary This Year

The "Jack Purcell" was first launched in 1935 as the signature shoes of John Edward "Jack" Purcell, a Canadian badminton player. Celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, Converse draws inspiration from vintage details of the 1970s with its new line, the "Jack Purcell 1935," which is modernized using today's technology and sensibility.

We spoke with Koji Horiuchi, who is in charge of the MD for "Jack Purcell" at Converse Japan Co., Ltd., about the brand's history and evolution.

The Precursor of Signature Shoes

While signature athlete models are now common, collaboration between athletes and shoe companies was rare back then. In that era, a pair of shoes was born that would later become known as a masterpiece: the "Jack Purcell."

When we asked Horiuchi, who is now the MD for this model in its 90th year, about its history, he explained:

"'Jack Purcell' was developed in 1935 as shoes for tennis and badminton. Jack Purcell, a Canadian badminton player who had won the World Championship, participated in the development, and the product was released using his name as the product name."

Although it's commonplace now, the birth of the signature model can be traced back to this "Jack Purcell." Originally born as sports shoes, their status as iconic fashion sneakers took off after legendary actors James Dean and Dustin Hoffman wore them in films.

At the time, manufacturing was handled by tire maker B.F. Goodrich, and sales were managed by Spalding. In the 1970s, the shoe business of B.F. Goodrich was merged with Converse.

In the 1990s, Hiroshi Fujiwara popularized the shoes on the Japanese street scene, leading to a boom in a variety of models and colorways. Today, the "Jack Purcell" remains beloved by modern sneaker fans.

A Refreshed Design that Pays Respect to History

The simple design fits any style, while iconic features known as "smile" and "mustache" are incorporated. Even now, 90 years since its launch, it's widely recognized as a masterpiece among low-tech shoes adored around the globe. With the 90th anniversary renewal, Horiuchi elaborates on the evolution:

"With the 90th anniversary milestone for 'Jack Purcell,' we wanted to evolve this historical, longstanding model to fit modern living—making it as comfortable as possible. That's how the renewal began.

"Because its design has been cherished by users for generations, we've shown great respect for that aspect, while making innovative changes to the internal construction."

So what were the specific changes? Horiuchi continues:

"With most traditional low-tech shoes, there's not much of a slant from heel to toe, which means the wearer's weight tends to fall toward their heel. As a result, many people feel tired wearing them. That's why we added up to 13mm of polyurethane in the heel, creating a slope towards the toe, enhancing the sense of forward lean.

"By angling the insole, the wearer's weight centers on the middle of the foot, reducing fatigue. It also makes stepping forward easier, improving walkability, thanks to the increased slant."

While this might sound like a running shoe, the sophisticated appearance—true to its refined heritage—remains untouched, with only internal updates drastically improving comfort. But that's not the only innovation inside. Horiuchi elaborates further.

"By inserting a shank (plate) between the wedge and insole, we successfully reduced the sinking of the heel. Additionally, we pursued a superior fit by adopting an anatomical last that conforms to the natural shape of the foot.

"Originally, the iconic 'mustache' design on the heel was a stylized representation of the arch support, so while inheriting this historical element, we’ve achieved a satisfying renewal by updating the comfort for modern lifestyles.”

Needless to say, these improvements have dramatically enhanced both comfort and fit. When I personally tried them on, I was genuinely amazed by the upgraded sense of fit and cushioning compared to previous models.

Evolution Focused on What Modern Users Want

The renewed "Jack Purcell," now featuring an internal structure reminiscent of leather dress shoes, delivers a superior fit and feel. When asked about the biggest challenges during the renewal process, Horiuchi shared his thoughts:

“It was tough to determine the best way to present ‘Jack Purcell’ to users for the 90th anniversary—the foundational aspect of branding. For example, if the goal was to dramatically improve comfort by overhauling the design, in theory, we could deliver this ‘Jack Purcell’ as more of a running shoe.

"However, since this model has a rich heritage, we needed to consider what today’s users are looking for. While retaining its refined appearance, we focused mainly on revolutionary internal structural updates to suit modern life. By doing so, our direction naturally became clear.”

This time, it’s not just the “Jack Purcell 1935” that’s being released. Alongside the conventional open-lacing style, there’s also a “Jack Purcell 1935 Circular Bump,” which features a closed-lacing design reminiscent of dress shoes.

Finally, when we asked Horiuchi about future plans, he shared,

“On July 11, the new black color of ‘Jack Purcell 1935’ and grey of ‘Jack Purcell 1935 Circular Bump’ will be released. We’re also working on collaborative models, as well as new releases for the fall and winter seasons—so please look forward to future announcements.”

With a long history and beloved by not only athletes but also by renowned artists and trendsetters, "Jack Purcell" is celebrating its 90th anniversary with a new focus on comfort, promising a new level of walking ease. Try them on to truly experience the difference for yourself.