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The Craftsmanship of JUGEM: Bringing Functional Outdoor Materials to Everyday Wear
DOUBLE-I INTERNATIONAL Co., Ltd., a company primarily focused on its OEM business for apparel manufacturers, launched its own brand, JUGEM, spurred by the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite possessing advanced technical skills honed by producing OEM outdoor wear, the brand's chosen concept was "the ultimate everyday wear."
Why did they channel their manufacturing expertise, once dedicated to pursuing functionality, into creating everyday apparel? The reason lies in a vision for the future of clothing that was uniquely visible from their perspective as an OEM manufacturer.
We sat down with CEO Takeya Tamaki to discuss the story behind JUGEM's creation and the brand's vision for its craftsmanship.
Why an OEM Manufacturer Started Its Own Brand
DOUBLE-I INTERNATIONAL, the company behind JUGEM, originally centered its business on ODM (Original Design Manufacturing), handling everything from OEM services and design proposals to production for apparel brands. They carved out a niche specializing in technical product development for outdoor brands, establishing a strong reputation within the industry.However, the COVID-19 pandemic sent shockwaves through their business model. CEO Takeya Tamaki reflects on the events that led to the brand's launch.
"The business environment was completely upended by the pandemic, and I realized we couldn't just keep doing things the way we always had," he explains. "So, we decided to launch our own brand—something we could build ourselves—partly as a way to shift our own perspective and start fresh. That was the initial spark."
It was an essential step for the future, building upon their existing business structure. By finally bringing a long-nurtured brand concept to life, JUGEM was officially launched in 2021.
The Philosophy of Subtraction That Creates the Ultimate Everyday Wear
JUGEM's approach to craftsmanship is built on a deep understanding of high-performance materials, honed through their OEM experience. However, Tamaki wasn't interested in simply creating a rehash of technical outdoor gear."Clothing from highly specialized outdoor brands is often over-engineered for city life," says Tamaki. "At JUGEM, we focus on a process of 'subtraction.' We take advantage of the high-quality materials but consciously strip away features to make the garments fit seamlessly into an urban setting. We prioritize eliminating non-essential functions and concentrating only on what's truly necessary."
This "philosophy of subtraction" is the very core of what makes JUGEM the "ultimate everyday wear." By bridging the three elements of TRAVEL, OUTDOOR, and LIFESTYLE, the brand focuses on delivering comfort that fits into daily life, rather than on excessive technical specifications.
This philosophy is also reflected in the brand's name. With an eye on international expansion from the very beginning, they chose "JUGEM"—a Japanese name easy for foreigners to remember. Inspired by the classic folktale "Jugemu," the name is imbued with the meaning of "boundless happiness."
"I just want people to feel a little happier when they wear our clothes," he shares. "That's how I interpret the kanji '寿限無'—as 'boundless happiness.'"
Overseas, the name is often pronounced "Joo-gem." Along with this sound, the brand's philosophy is beginning to resonate globally.
International Expansion That Started in Paris
JUGEM launched with high hopes, but the journey wasn't easy. Initially, they pursued a direct-to-consumer strategy, releasing a few new styles each month exclusively on their e-commerce site without any wholesale partners. But the reality was tougher than expected."Honestly, I was a bit complacent and thought it would be easier to sell our products," Tamaki admits. "But once we got started, it was incredibly challenging. It was a stark reminder of just how difficult it is to sell things."
This experience led to a crucial realization: wholesale was essential for building brand awareness. Tamaki then made a bold move, pivoting towards international expansion before focusing on the domestic market, setting his sights on Paris, the epicenter of fashion.
Their first step was exhibiting in a showroom during Paris Fashion Week. The initial attempt wasn't a perfect fit, as they experienced a mismatch between the brand's identity and the showroom's clientele. But they persisted, and eventually, JUGEM caught the attention of buyers from South Korea and the United States. After these buyers featured the brand on social media, inquiries began to trickle, then flow.
"We're still just planting seeds," Tamaki says with humility, but there's no doubt that their persistent efforts in Paris have built a solid foundation for JUGEM's growing global recognition.
Dyneema®: Redefining Everyday Apparel
JUGEM's approach to craftsmanship doesn't involve setting specific themes for each season. Instead, the brand is known for drawing inspiration from the materials it deems best at any given time. This season, JUGEM is shining a spotlight on Dyneema®, a material renowned for its high strength and light weight.According to Tamaki, while Dyneema® is typically a stiff fabric used in products like bags, a supple new fabric has been introduced, created by blending special threads with nylon, making it perfect for apparel. Focusing on this innovative material, JUGEM has rolled out a collection of items, including a vest, a shirt, shorts, and a cap.
Take, for instance, the stand-collar "DYNEEMA PACK SNAP VEST." It features generously sized armholes, making it easy to layer over a shirt. The mesh lining enhances breathability and comfort against the skin, while its packable design ensures it's easy to carry on the go.
The "DYNEEMA GURUKHA SHORTS" boast a distinctive wide, below-the-knee cut. Perfect for summer when tops tend to be simpler, they offer plenty of storage, including a zip pocket inside the slash pocket and asymmetrically placed cargo pockets.
Behind its minimalist exterior lies a wealth of functionality, meticulously designed with the wearer's every move in mind. This is the essence of what JUGEM calls "the ultimate everyday wear."
JUGEM's venture into wholesale, which began with a challenge in Paris, has steadily paid off. The brand is now stocked in approximately 20 stores in Japan and 15 overseas. Furthermore, a broader expansion has begun in Taiwan and China through distributors.
Going forward, the brand plans to host more pop-up stores, mainly in Tokyo, to create more opportunities for customers to get hands-on with the products. A large-scale event is also planned in Hong Kong in collaboration with a local retailer, aiming to create a space that tells the brand's story in depth.
Alongside its OEM business, JUGEM meticulously crafts a curated collection of about 30 styles per year. Tamaki's final words, "We want to keep going for a long time, little by little," reveal a quiet determination to deliver enduring, intrinsic value, not just follow passing fads.
PROFILE
Takeya Tamaki
President and CEO, Double I International Co., Ltd.
He founded Double I International Co., Ltd. in 2015. The company specializes in OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), handling production for other apparel makers, and ODM (Original Design Manufacturing), which covers the entire process from design to production. In 2021, he launched his original brand, JUGEM, which he is expanding both in Japan and abroad.
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