A Man Embodying the Spirit of 1978: 29-Year-Old Kato Yumei on the Freedom and Style of "Showa Suits"

The suits and coats that once colored the street corners of Japan's Showa era. Today, Kato Yumei is reviving them as an "aesthetic of the times." At just 29 years old, he's making waves on short-form video platforms and YouTube with his Showa-era salaryman suit style, celebrated for its remarkable accuracy.

What he reconstructs is not just generic retro, but the specific sensibility embodied in a single year: "1978." The late '70s was an era when social energy, people's attire, and the mood of the city all resonated with fashion.

Why does he remain so dedicated to the year 1978? We sat down with Kato to explore his philosophy and understand what his stylish "Showa look" means for us today.

Inspired by Yokoyama Yasushi and Iwai Jonio

On the day of our interview, Kato arrived in a beige suit, complete with a gold watch and brooch, and tortoiseshell glasses. Meeting him in person, his gentle demeanor adds a touch of glamour and elegance to the overall style, even more so than in his videos. We wondered when he first became captivated by Showa-era suit styles.

"The first spark was the '80s boom' trend around the late 2010s.

Around that time, I was struck by old footage from the '80s of Beat Takeshi wearing a FICCE sweater and Kamikami Ryutaro pulling off a DC brand-style suit.

Looking back at old clips, I saw Tatekawa Danshi with his '70s 'Showa old-timer' style, which I thought was so cool and sophisticated. Through that process, I gradually became interested in Showa fashion.

At first, I collected slightly looser '80s casual wear from brands like Isao Kaneko's Karl Helmut, Papas, and Nicole. So, my entry point was really the DC brand culture of the late '80s."

At the time, Kato was still in his early 20s. The journey to his "1978 suit style," he says, was surprisingly sparked by *manzai* comedy.

"I'll admit, I have a bit of a tendency to follow trends. While the loose '80s silhouettes were popular, I started to feel that '70s suits' were getting another look.

For example, Gucci's collections around 2020 had a distinct '70s vibe. I was seeing more flared pants on the street and thought, 'Oh, maybe collecting '70s suits would be more interesting.'

The silhouette back then was so unique, cinched at the waist and flaring out toward the hem—a true 'flare style,' right?

On top of that, a huge factor for me was my identity as a comedian.

I was performing *manzai* at the time and posting about it on social media, so my 'comedian persona' was a big part of my identity.

When I thought about who to model my retro Showa comedian persona after, the first people who came to mind were Yokoyama Yasushi and Iwai Jonio in their retro suits.

When you think of a Showa-era comedian, 'Yassan' (Yasushi's nickname) is who comes to mind, right? I figured even younger generations who don't know Yokoyama Yasushi would still recognize 'that tight suit style' from somewhere.

In that sense, too, I started to think, ''70s suits are pretty cool.'"

A Dedication to "Made in Japan" and the Beauty of Imperfect Styling

One of his most important criteria when choosing a suit is a commitment to it being "Made in Japan."

"I almost always choose suits that were made in Japan.

For instance, I like brands like Mr.Van that have a silhouette with a cinched waist. The suit I'm wearing today I found at a thrift shop; it's by a brand like D'URBAN, which became famous in the '70s after the French actor Alain Delon appeared in their TV commercials.

There's a name, 'Okada,' embroidered on the lining, which was probably the name of the person who had the suit tailored. Back then, it was common practice to embroider the owner's name on bespoke suits."

They say the fit is everything when it comes to a man's suit, but how does Yumei Kato typically go about choosing one?

"I often get comments like, 'That suit fits you perfectly,' but it's just an illusion created by my hairstyle and overall vibe; in reality, the fit isn't that precise (laughs). I usually look for suits at second-hand stores or on flea market apps. Whenever I have free time, I'm always on the lookout for a great find.

When I'm choosing, I prioritize items that are 'Made in Japan,' but I'm not too fussy about the exact fit. My rule of thumb is that as long as it's not ridiculously small or oversized, it'll work.

That's because suits from that era, even those marked as a size L, are significantly smaller than today's standards.

I guess men were just smaller back then. Since I have a slim build myself, vintage sizes often fit me surprisingly well.

Sometimes the sleeves are a little short, but I make it work by balancing the overall look.

For instance, if I pair it with a smaller shirt, it brings the outfit together, and if I add a watch to my wrist, slightly short sleeves aren't a big deal. With a little creativity, you can create the impression that you're 'pulling it off' even if the size isn't perfect."

The Aesthetics of Freedom and breathing room, Born from an "In-Between" Era

The 'Showa-era suit style' he discovered through fashion is deeply connected to the unique atmosphere of late 1970s Japan.

"While collecting Showa-era suits, I happened to find and buy a custom-made suit from '1978' at a vintage shop, and that's what sparked my theme of '1978.' Looking back, I'm so glad I decided to focus on that specific year.

You see, the late '70s were a transitional period. The '60s and early '70s still had a lot of political fervor, and then in the '80s, things became incredibly glamorous with the bubble economy.

But '78 and '79 were in the middle of all that—a time when society had calmed down a bit and people were starting to cultivate their own personal hobbies and pleasures. I was drawn to that 'in-between' feeling, and the more I dug into it, the more fascinating it became."

Kato describes the appeal of a '1978 suit' this way:

"I think it's really about the 'freedom of the suit.' Today, many people are so concerned with proper etiquette.

But when you look at magazines from the '70s, the mindset was completely different. The way people wore suits was all over the place.

By today's standards, their shirts were untucked, their sleeves were too short, and the sizing was just off (laughs). They would layer a collared sweater between their jacket and shirt—it was a real 'anything goes' vibe. I feel a certain energy from the fashion of that time, a 'it's fashion, so do whatever you want!' kind of spirit.

For example, Shoken (Kenichi Hagiwara) wore a BIGI suit in the drama '傷だらけの天使' (Kizu Darake no Tenshi). He layered a white T-shirt under an open-collared shirt and paired it with a classic double-breasted suit—a 'rule-breaking' combination by modern standards. But it looked so natural and incredibly cool.

It's just clothing, so why can't we be that free with it? I think that kind of atmosphere existed in the '70s."

At the same time, Kato continues, the late '70s still had a touch of Japanese earnestness, creating an interesting 'mix of freedom and sincerity.'"

"Unlike the colorful, full-throttle energy of the '80s, I think the late '70s had an 'excitement for the era to come.'

Suits were a symbol of this. '70s suits had strong, voluminous shoulders but a cinched waist. It was a perfect middle ground—tight yet somehow loose. Not as stoic as the '60s, nor as flashy as the '80s.

There's a chic coolness to 'accentuating what you want to show off and cinching what you want to tighten.' And there's still a certain rawness, a 'Showa-era masculinity,' left in it. That might be the biggest reason I'm so drawn to the year 1978."

The 'Showa suit style' that Kato embodies isn't just a fashion statement; it's a form of entertainment. It's a 'relatable fashion' that can be replicated, yet it's also infused with a playful desire to 'make people smile.'

When we asked him, "Will you be dressing the same way in 10 years?" he replied with a smile, "I'm sure I'll have changed by then." We look forward to seeing more from Kato, who approaches both fashion and comedy with such dedication.