From the bustle of New York to the tranquility of Mallorca—the brand KIKA/NY chose as “craftsmanship”

KIKA/NY rapidly grew its brand amidst the urban hustle and bustle of Brooklyn, New York. Yet founders Sabine Spanjer and Kika Vliegenthart chose to turn their backs on expansion and relocate their base to the Mediterranean island of Mallorca.

In an era prioritizing efficiency and speed, these two female leather artisans deliberately chose to “stay small.” We explore their brand philosophy centered on the essence of craftsmanship and “slowness and humanity.”

The origins of KIKA/NY lie in a leather workshop in Brooklyn, New York. At the time,Kika was the one working with Schaum. Kika, who was attending film school, was captivated by Barbara Shaum's shop located along her commute. Barbara was a legendary sandal artisan, sought after for advice even by renowned designers like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and one of the iconic figures of the New York scene.

Kika used her time waiting for film development at school to visit Barbara, eventually earning her apprenticeship. This marked the beginning of 15 years of rigorous training. As a leather artisan, the legendary Barbara Shaum had a craftsman's temperament and a demanding side, but Kika says she was thoroughly drilled in the traditional techniques honed in France and Provincetown, Massachusetts, along with the ethics of the craft.

“The techniques, materials, finishing methods—everything stems from those fifteen years I learned from her,” Kika reflects.

Later, Sabine and Kika launched “KIKA/NY,” beginning production of bags and accessories. The brand grew steadily in New York, establishing a store in the Navy Yard and gaining significant media coverage. However, as the business expanded, they began to feel uneasy.

Working around the clock, chasing collaborations and photo shoots. As production scaled up, outsourcing and division of labor increased, and the tactile creation—the feeling of “making something for someone”—began to fade.

“More people got involved, growth piled upon growth, and we were finally on the verge of burning out, unable to enjoy it anymore.”

A sense of loss felt in the midst of success. That feeling would prompt them to make a major decision.

Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the couple decided to leave New York and relocate their base to Mallorca, Spain. This wasn't merely a move; it was a fundamental shift in their business model. They chose to return to their roots as artisans, moving away from the pursuit of rapid growth as a “brand.”

Today, KIKA/NY operates intentionally on a small scale. They've reduced mass production and wholesale, shifting toward a style closer to made-to-order production, creating pieces while engaging directly with customers.

“Our work is almost very direct now. This is the style I learned working under Barbara.”

Customers can place detailed orders online, specifying bag colors, zipper types, strap orientations, and more. Production takes several weeks, but customers reportedly enjoy even this “waiting time.” Kika takes photos during the process and emails customers updates like, “I'm halfway through now.” She receives delighted replies, and after the finished product arrives, customers sometimes send photos of themselves using the bag on their travels.

“In New York, everything was so busy and fast paced just paying rent was all we could manage—this would have been impossible. Now, we have the space to savor time together, life, the island's beauty, and family.”

Life on Mallorca gave them the quiet and leisure needed for creation. They start work at 11 a.m. after the gym, focusing intently on the leather late into the night. Without rushing, they immerse themselves in the handiwork until satisfied. By scaling back and staying in a niche market, they reclaimed a “human” pace for crafting.

What defines KIKA/NY products is their serene presence and the inherent power of materials that grow more beautiful with use. They utilize vegetable-tanned leather from the renowned Italian tannery Conceria 800 in Tuscany.

Tanned without chemicals, using only natural materials like trees and oils over an extended period, this leather is thick yet supple, possessing a rich character.

Unlike chrome-tanned leather, vegetable-tanned leather undergoes dramatic changes due to environmental factors like the oils from the user's hands, sunlight, and rain. This is what we call “patina” (ageing). A bag worn for ten years reflects its owner's lifestyle, evolving into a truly unique piece.

To maximize the appeal of this material, KIKA/NY's design philosophy is built on thorough “subtraction.” When a new idea emerges, we first create a sample, then meticulously pare away unnecessary pockets and embellishments.

“It's fair to say that over half our work, our design, is dedicated to highlighting their (the tanners') craftsmanship.”

Design inspiration comes from tools that have remained practical across eras: Himalayan trekking packs, Japanese baskets, and early American-style mailbags. Beauty, functionality, universality. We pursue structures that embody these three elements and withstand decades of heavy use.

Every step of the production process is done by hand. Leather is cut with a knife according to patterns, edges are skived, glued, and sewn. Finishing the edges, in particular, differs from standard edge polishing. It involves sealing the leather itself using wax and machinery, without dyes, and can take 6 to 7 hours.

“It's extremely labor-intensive. It's not efficient, but we believe there's value in that too.”

While KIKA/NY has found an ideal production environment on Mallorca, it also faces a common challenge for modern artisans: the succession of skills.

While many interns once sought positions at their New York workshop, they note a decline in young people genuinely eager to learn the craft. Mastering specialized skills demands extensive time, yet financial success is far from guaranteed.

The business landscape is also shifting. While platforms like Instagram once fueled growth for small brands, algorithm changes and information overload have diminished their effectiveness. Furthermore, the surge in international shipping costs has become a significant burden for them, shipping products from Spain to the world.

Nevertheless, KIKA/NY does not entirely reject technology. Sabine expresses interest in the potential of digital technology for measuring foot sizes and communicating the production process.

“I believe the human desire to touch, inherent in our nature, will spark a counter-movement. People will want to touch and feel things,”

They feel that precisely because the world is becoming increasingly digital, there will be a return to physical tactility and craftsmanship where the maker's face is visible.

KIKA/NY's choice challenges the modern definition of “success.” Rather than pursuing rapid expansion or maximizing sales, they prioritize upholding the quality they believe in, connecting with each customer individually, and living a human-centered life. Their practice on Mallorca demonstrates that there is richness to be found in not chasing scale.

“We are happy because we can create things.”

Craft before brand. With that pride in their hearts, KIKA/NY continues to engage with leather today in their Mallorca workshop—quietly, yet powerfully.