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The Best “Paternless” Garments Offered by the Plain Body Brand "Knuu" from Tokyo
The blank body, also known as a pre-printed or embroidered plain T-shirt or sweatshirt, has various brands both domestically and internationally. However, "Knuu," a brand that has carefully reconstructed the concept of blank body from the material and silhouette, was established this spring.
This Knuu brand involved multiple creators who collaborated to craft each piece. We gathered some of those creators and spoke with bestie global's Takeshi Kikuchi, who oversees the brand.
The Trigger Came from a Piece of Fabric Sample
“To start with the origin of the brand, our representative Yokobori showed me a loopback fabric (sweatshirt material) and said, 'Can we create something with this fabric? It can be made at this production lot and price.' After hearing about the high quality of the fabric and the production lot and price, I thought it would be better to establish a brand."From there, I researched the market for blank body brands and began preparations for starting the brand.
"For example, when considering BtoB transactions, there are companies wanting T-shirts for events or to create original sweatshirts. They often express that 'production costs are continuously rising, but they want high-quality items.' I thought I could create a brand that meets such needs.”
Having heard about the trigger for starting the brand, let’s continue to discuss how the Knuu brand was actually developed.
“Instead of thinking alone, I reached out to trusted individuals and brought them together to discuss aspects such as our lineup. We created everything from scratch, designing logos, summarizing concepts, and incorporating everyone's opinions from freelance apparel designers, including color choices and intricate details, all while keeping a simple finish in mind.
"Firstly, the brand name comes from the Japanese word '縫う' ('nuu,' to sew), and we added a 'K,' which is a silent letter like in English, and it became 'Knuu.'
"We decided to use only two types of fabric: jersey (T-shirt fabric) and loopback fabric, launching with a total of six items: short-sleeve T-shirts, long-sleeve T-shirts, crewneck sweatshirts, two types of hooded sweatshirts, and sweatpants.
"Of course, customers can add prints or embroidery, but our focus is on creating high-quality items that can stand alone as plain pieces. Knuu doesn't refer to us as blank bodies but rather as plain bodies. We also established the keyword 'Premium and Basic' to express our worldview and began our launch.”
Ultra Heavyweight Jersey
Now, we would like to look into the careful item creation at Knuu. We will start with the two items made from jersey: the "Heavy Crewneck T-Shirt" and the "Heavy Crewneck Long Sleeve T-Shirt."“The most notable feature is the heavyweight fabric. Generally, a T-shirt is considered heavyweight starting around 6.5 ounces, but Knuu's jersey is rather thick at 9.5 ounces. To get technical, it's crafted with a double-twisted yarn made from two threads of 26-gauge (thickness of the yarn), which is quite rare for jersey, and this double-twisted structure gives it a heavy and unique texture.
"Moreover, T-shirts often tend to twist diagonally after wear, but Knuu items are less likely to experience this issue.
"We paid close attention to the silhouette and sizing to ensure they don’t become overly distinctive, slightly widening the body width compared to standard ones and adjusting the shoulders to have a slight drop shoulder effect. This work was approached with great attention to detail.”
Heavy Crewneck T-Shirt – 4,400 yen (tax included)
Heavy Crewneck Long Sleeve T-Shirt – 5,500 yen (tax included)
Items Made with Dedicated Back Fabric
Following the items made from jersey, let's explore those made from back fabric. In this material, we have created four styles: the "Heavy Crewneck Sweatshirt," "Heavy Sweatpants," and two variations of the "Heavy Hooded Sweatshirt." Let's continue to hear more about this material and these items."This back fabric is 17.6 ounces, and by using a rare 26-gauge end yarn for both the surface and connecting yarn, a hard texture is formed on the surface. Additionally, the back yarn is purposely knitted together with an 8-gauge end yarn to create a uniquely dense pile fabric, resulting in a soft and fluffy texture.
"The 'Heavy Crewneck Sweatshirt' pays careful attention to the silhouette, just like a T-shirt, and the seam from the neck to the sleeves is slightly shifted back. This design ensures that the shoulders do not rise when wearing it, allowing for a clean look.
"The sweatpants are designed in a silhouette that finds the perfect balance—not too wide and not too narrow. Since the fabric is sturdy, I believe they are quite suitable not only as loungewear but also for outings."
Heavy Crewneck Sweatshirt – 11,000 yen (tax included)
Heavy Crewneck Sweatshirt – 11,000 yen (tax included)
The Unique Character of the Heavy Hooded Sweatshirt
Additionally, among the back fabric items is the "Heavy Hooded Sweatshirt." Here as well, we can see a commitment that is rare among plain body brands."First, a significant feature is that alongside the hood's drawstrings matching the body color, there is an additional drawstring in a natural color. I think it’s the first time that wearers can choose the color of the hood's drawstring, so I hope they can select their favorite and enjoy it.
"We offer two types: a standard model with a patch pocket on the abdomen and 'Heavy Hooded Sweatshirt – Seam Pocket,' which has a pocket along the side seam.
"Due to the patch pocket, the print area on the hoodie becomes smaller, but with the seam pocket, we can secure a similar graphic area as that of T-shirts and crew neck sweats."
Right in the photo: Heavy Hooded Sweatshirt – Seam Pocket – 14,300 yen (tax included)
Color variations: HEATHER GRAY / NAVY / MAROON / WHITE / BLACK
Knuu's items are filled with clever details within their simplicity.
For instance, regarding threads and fabrics, even the navy color is referred to as "dusky purple" (ナス紺, literally "eggplant navy"), which gives a vintage feel and expresses an atmosphere reminiscent of college sweatshirts seen in second-hand shops.
At first glance, the solid colors may seem plain, but the more one learns, the more it appears that such a level of commitment to a solid body is hard to find elsewhere. Furthermore, the uncompromising attitude towards logos, tags, and even packaging reflects the pride that the Knuu brand embodies.
[1] Double Yarn:
There are two types of yarn: single yarn and double yarn. Single yarn is a single thread spun as is, while double yarn is made of two single yarns twisted together. The characteristics of double yarn include its softness and high strength.
[2] Plied Yarn:
Plied yarn refers to yarn that is formed by laying two or more yarns together without twisting them. By combining different colored yarns, plied yarn can create unique textures, and by knitting several strands of thin yarn together, a variety of thicknesses can be achieved.
PROFILE
Takeshi Kikuchi
bestie global
After returning to Japan from a five-year stay in Canada, he established 2step co., ltd. in 2000 and launched the brand SANDINISTA.
After a one-year preparation period, in spring 2024, he will collaborate with Bestie Global to launch "Knuu," and he is currently overseeing the Knuu division within Bestie Global.
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