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What Era Does the Clothing in "The Apothecary Diaries" Represent? Exploring the Unseen World of Hanfu
The popular anime currently airing, "The Apothecary Diaries," is a fantasy work inspired by the imperial harem of ancient China.
Many captivating characters appear, including the protagonist, Maomao, who is a poison taster, the eunuch Jinshi, and the emperor's consort, Princess Gyokuyo. The court costumes they wear are designed based on the traditional attire of ancient China known as Hanfu.
Hanfu is not very well-known in Japan. I spoke in detail with Assistant Professor Yonei from Bunka Gakuen University about its historical background, artistic expressions in the work, and key points for creating it yourself.
PROFILE
Yumi Yonei
Assistant Professor, Faculty of International Culture, Bunka Gakuen University
Completed graduate studies in the Department of Humanities at Tokyo Metropolitan University. Studied abroad as a senior research student at Shanghai Normal University. Her specialties include modern Chinese literature and women's magazine studies. She authored Chapter 2, "着る――チャイナドレス、人民服、ファッション" in the book edited by the Chinese Modernism Research Society (中国モダニズム研究会), "中華生活文化誌――ドラゴン解剖学 竜の生態の巻" (Kwansei Gakuin University Press, 2018). Currently, she teaches Chinese, Chinese cultural affairs, and Japan-China relations at university.
The Setting of the Work is the Tang Dynasty When Hanfu Flourished
First, what exactly is Hanfu?
As the name suggests, Hanfu refers to the clothing worn by the Han people. It's a traditional Chinese garment characterized by wide sleeves and flowing silhouettes, worn across a broad range of social classes from the elite to commoners.
Women's Hanfu is characterized by colorful decorations and skirts that widen significantly. Historical records indicate that skirts could be long enough to drag on the ground. In contrast, men's Hanfu generally featured a more linear and simpler design.
In addition to its aesthetic beauty, Hanfu was also celebrated for its comfort. By changing materials, it could be made cool for summer, and layering allowed it to be warm for winter, making it a practical garment.
Could you tell us about the historical changes of Hanfu?
Hanfu has a very long history but was not worn for extended periods. Throughout the time when the Han people ruled from before the Common Era to the medieval period, Hanfu was widely donned across China.In the 17th century, with the establishment of the Qing Dynasty by the Manchu, clothing was significantly influenced by their traditions. One notable result is the prototype of the today well-known cheongsam.
Later, during the People's Republic of China, the "People's Clothing" was promoted. As reforms began in the 1980s, Western fashion, particularly jeans, flowed into China, leading to the modernization and diversification of clothing.
Hanfu began to be worn again in the 2000s, spurred by the Hanfu revival movement, popularity among young people due to social media, and an increase in the popularity of court dramas set in ancient China.
Hanfu went unworn for about 400 years, leading to a near cessation of its cultural presence. However, recently, it can be said that there has been a reassessment of Hanfu as a representation of Han ethnic identity.
The clothing in "The Apothecary Diaries" is modeled after that of the Tang Dynasty. What are the features of Hanfu from that era?
The Tang Dynasty was a period of significant economic development due to China's unification and active domestic and international exchanges. Against this backdrop, fashion culture also flourished and gained higher stylistic importance.In terms of materials, there were advancements in silk weaving technology, increasing its usage in clothing as a fabric.
On the decorative front, embroidery featuring plants and animals became widespread. It is believed that high-ranking individuals, particularly from the imperial family, began incorporating lavish embroidery using gold and silver threads during this era.
Maidens' Clothes Were Dyed Using Natural Materials
Now, I'd like to talk about the costumes of the characters, starting with the outfit of the maid, Maomao.
Maomao's costume seems to resemble "Aoqun" (襖裙), a type of Hanfu.Aoqun has existed since the Tang Dynasty and is characterized by its design that separates the top and bottom.
The "Ao" (襖, top) has a straight and flared shape, which is paired with a "Qun" (裙, long skirt) underneath.
This style was worn during the Ming and Qing Dynasties and the Republic of China period, with Maomao's outfit particularly resembling the Aoqun that was used as a school uniform for female students in the Republic of China era. While the female students secured their collars with Chinese buttons, Maomao ties hers with ribbon, but overall, the impression is similar.
For an active character like Maomao, who frequently runs and carries things, this style must be comfortable and easy to move in.
The color combination of burgundy and green seems unusual at first glance, but was this actually a common combination at the time?
During that period, red was favored among women. Burgundy, which is close to red, was also likely common.Green is said to have been frequently worn in China at that time. Therefore, this combination could indeed be plausible.
I’ve heard that many fans replicate Maomao’s outfit. If someone wants to wear or create something like hers, are there any points to be careful about?
I think the material and color are important. In that era, high-ranking individuals wore silk, while commoners wore clothes made of hemp or cotton. Since Maomao is set as a maid, using rough hemp fabric would likely create a vibe more aligned with the actual setting.Additionally, concerning colors, high-status individuals wore vibrant and flashy colors, while commoners wore subdued colors dyed from natural materials.
Particularly for maids, it is believed that they wore more understated colors to avoid standing out compared to high-status individuals. To get closer to the realistic Maomao, it would be wise to choose calm colors.
Also, pairing the skirt with something loose would be ideal. If you want to add volume, wearing wide pants similar to Japanese "Hakama" (袴) beneath the skirt could help achieve a similar silhouette.
From Eunuchs to Queens, Different Statuses Wear Different Costumes in the Palace
Next, let's discuss the eunuch, Jinshi, who works in the harem. On the surface, he appears to be a eunuch, but there are mysteries surrounding his actual status. Additionally, in the story, he is in a position close to Maomao's superior.
During that time, eunuchs serving in the harem typically wore modestly colored garments such as gray and blue. Thus, at first glance, it seems that Jinshi might not be a particularly high-ranking eunuch.However, his upper garment features gold trim, which was only permitted for royalty or high-ranking officials. This suggests that he may not be an ordinary eunuch.
Furthermore, while other eunuchs in the story wear a headpiece known as "Futou" (幞頭), Jinshi does not don one of those.
This also likely indicates his unique standing.
The clothing reveals characters' complex statuses, doesn't it? There is also a scene in the story where Jinshi is wearing formal attire, which features a dragon emblem.
Dragons are emblems only permitted for high-ranking individuals such as royalty in China.However, there’s a story that eunuchs who were favored by the imperial family could also wear such emblems.
Jinshi's status is an important point in the work, and the clothing serves as a subplot as well. Next, we will look at the four senior consorts living in the harem: Consort Gyokuyo, Consort Lihua, Consort Lishu, and Consort Ah-Duo.
First, I thought the shape of the obi that Princess Gyokuyo is wearing is quite rare. The embroidery on the surface is also distinctive. It appears to be designed to showcase differences from other princesses, but it doesn't seem to have derived from Hanfu shapes; rather, it feels influenced by another culture.
Princess Lihua's outfit has a large neckline. Since senior princesses often bear heirs, it seems that attire emphasizing a healthy fullness like this was indeed existent.
Princess Lishu has what looks like frills on her sleeves. I haven't seen much of this in actual Hanfu. It seems to accentuate Princess Lishu's youth and cuteness.
Moreover, Hanfu isn't just in light colors; there are also darker hues like those worn by Princess Ah-Duo. Since Princess Ah-Duo is older than other senior princesses, perhaps this color was chosen to convey a more mature vibe.
Each outfit reflects its individual personality, which is delightful.
As Princess Gyokuyo is said to come from the western city far from the capital, perhaps this is reflected in her attire as well. Did actual senior princesses of the Tang Dynasty also dress like this in their daily lives?
That's right. In Hanfu, when appearing in public, they would wear a three-piece set consisting of a top known as "Shan" (衫), a skirt called "Qun" (裙), and a shawl referred to as "Pibo" (披帛).The "Shan" is a silk garment worn in summer, and outside of summer, they wore a shorter top called "Ru" (襦).
Unlike maidens with cat-like appearances, senior princesses would commonly wear this three-piece set. Although it looks cumbersome, their servants handled daily tasks, so there was no need for them to move around much.
Furthermore, while they typically donned splendid attire, during festivals, they would change into even more extravagant outfits.
There seem to be more hair accessories compared to modern times, but that's also because there was no need to move.
The Tang Dynasty was a time when diverse hair accessories emerged, and high-ranking women wore multiple accessories at once. Thus, I feel this aspect is also quite close to historical fact.
However, regarding hairstyles, styles without bangs were common during that time.
In ancient China, there existed a belief that one should not damage hair given by one's parents, so generally, hair wasn't cut regardless of gender.
It is thought that the hair was styled in a bun-like updo on top, while bangs were not cut but allowed to grow and were tied together with the back hair. While Princess Lishu has bangs, I believe this is an arranged hairstyle adapted for modern Japan.
Lastly, could you share your thoughts on the work?
“The Apothecary Diaries” maintains historical accuracy while skillfully arranging details to make it approachable for contemporary viewers.The Hanfu appearing in the work features designs that incorporate the historical background and the personalities of the characters, effectively expressing their characteristics.
As mentioned at the beginning, Hanfu has not been worn for about 400 years, and its culture nearly faded away, but it has recently begun to be reevaluated.
I hope the beautiful costumes depicted in “The Apothecary Diaries” encourage many people to take an interest in the history and culture of Hanfu.
Header Caption:
© Natsu Hyuuga, Imagica Infos / "The Apothecary Diaries" Production Committee
Image Assistance:
TV Anime “The Apothecary Diaries” Exhibition
Sino-Japanese Friendship Center Art Museum's 2024 exhibition "Chang'an: Night Banquet— Food, Clothing, and Living in the Tang Dynasty"
＜Exhibition Information＞
TV Anime "The Apothecary Diaries" Exhibition
Dates: March 26, 2025 (Wednesday) - April 14, 2025 (Monday) *All days require advance reservation
Venue: Matsuya Ginza, 8th Floor Event Square
Opening Hours: 11:00 AM - 8:00 PM
*Closed at 7:30 PM on March 30 (Sunday), April 6 (Sunday), and April 13 (Sunday)
*Final day closes at 5:00 PM
*Last entry is one hour before closing
Admission Fee: General ¥1,800, High School Students ¥900, Middle School Students ¥700, Elementary School Students ¥500, Entry with Goods ¥3,900
*All amounts are tax inclusive
Inquiries: Matsuya Ginza 03-3567-1211 (General Inquiries)
Official Website: https://kusuriya-exhibition.jp/
Official X: @kusuriya_ex
*Information regarding this exhibition may change without notice.
*Please check the official exhibition website for the latest information, details, and precautions.
Text by Maishiro
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