Why Are People Obsessed with Vintage T-Shirts? Talking to Harajuku's Legendary "LABORATORY®" About the True Value & Future of Rock Tees

Located on Tonchan Street in Harajuku, the vintage shop LABORATORY® tells a fictional story as its concept: "A rock musician who gave up wealth and fame starts selling vintage clothing in a ruined place during their travels."

LABORATORY® opened in 2003 as a sister store to "BerBerJin" before becoming independent. For the past 23 years, it has continued to evolve with its one-of-a-kind worldview. To get a feel for the current state of rock T-shirts that have transcended generations, we sat down to speak with the store’s director, Yoshiyuki Maeda.

It All Started With an Imaginary Story About a Rock Musician

LABORATORY® primarily deals in vintage rock T-shirts, but the range of items is broad. The reason why people say "If you're serious about finding a rock T, go to LABORATORY®" is actually quite simple.

"Among the many vintage influences, the style that impacted me most was that of 70s rock musicians. I was drawn to their T-shirts, leather jackets, bell-bottoms, accessories—those became the core of the shop from the very beginning."

LABORATORY® treats T-shirts not just as "merch," but as a kind of "moving archive," each one imprinted with thought and aesthetics. According to Maeda, the history of the rock tee can't be explained with fashion alone.

"T-shirts let you express a 'NO' attitude without saying a word. For example, the Sex Pistols' 'God Save the Queen' tee is a biting satire of the royal family, and the message tee Kurt Cobain wore that said 'Corporate Magazines Still Suck' was full of sarcasm toward the media.

"During the era of punk and grunge, T-shirts were actual 'weapons.' More than just fashion, they're a way to declare, 'I'm here,' 'This is what I believe.'"

Music, philosophies, dissatisfaction with society—these things are expressed not in words but through clothing. Rock tees became a way to make rebellion against authority and norms visible.

The Standard: Whether or Not You Can Feel a Story

With social media and video making it possible for anyone to express themselves freely now, the weight might be a bit lighter than in those times. Even so, the attitude of "people who wear rock tees with conviction" still comes across.

The LABORATORY® selection standard is based on whether or not you can "feel a story."

The rock T-shirts handled here aren't chosen merely for their rarity or age. What really matters is the "life" the T-shirt has lived. There's a deeper value that's different from the current trend of escalating vintage T-shirt prices.

"I feel like used clothing isn't just fabric—it's almost soaked with someone's memories and feelings. The way the print is cracked, the faded color, the design of the tag, the quirks in the stitching… all of it documents the 'time' that garment has witnessed. Where it was worn and how it was lived in—you can feel that kind of warmth is still present.

"That's not just unique to rock tees, but is really the charm of all vintage clothing. It's not simply an object, but something that's absorbed people's memories and emotions. That's why I think we're drawn to it."

Maeda continues, explaining that tag design and sewing techniques reflect their eras like tiny mirrors. For example, Hanes, Screen Stars, Giant—the tags of each era carry a unique spirit from their time.

"Depending on the body, the fabric blend, thickness, and silhouette will be totally different. It's a little thrill when you find the perfect shape."

Spinning the Future of Rock T-Shirts

The appeal of rock T-shirts, as envisioned by LABORATORY®, lies in the fact that "anyone can wear them, but depending on how you wear them, the meaning changes." In today's fashion world, which is increasingly becoming silent, the rock T-shirt remains one of the few items that still has a "voice."

"I believe a rock T-shirt is something that adds a ‘story’ to your style. Fashion nowadays is becoming ever more silent, with more and more clothes that don’t express anything. But a rock T-shirt still has a ‘voice.’ When you wear one, your background and vibe naturally come through, reminding us of the fun of wearing context and narrative."

In recent years, thanks to the vintage boom, Gen Z youth have started to embrace rock T-shirts as a new kind of fashion.

"Oftentimes, young people get into the music because it just ‘looks cool’—and if that leads them to discover the music itself, that’s the best possible outcome. Gen Z has its own sense of distance and freedom, and I feel like these new perspectives are breathing new life into rock T-shirts."

However, as the popularity of vintage T-shirts surges again, there is also a growing problem with the proliferation of counterfeits.

"Unlike jeans, T-shirts don’t have clear historical records or detailed specifications, so your ability to spot the real thing depends entirely on how many ‘authentic’ pieces you’ve seen. I really hope the younger generation gets to encounter lots of genuine rock T-shirts."

These days, you can spot rock T-shirts in all kinds of places, but the only way to encounter the “real deal” is at trusted shops.

"If you’re going to spend good money on a T-shirt, I want you to find the real thing, not get misled by incorrect info or fake value. That’s why I recommend sticking to reputable long-standing shops or those with deep knowledge, expertise, and a good aesthetic sense—and LABORATORY® wants to remain a place like that, too."

What LABORATORY® aspires to is not just “selling” T-shirts, but "spinning" and weaving their stories. Sensibility over knowledge. A generation’s unique, free outlook can nurture new culture. More than anything, there’s a strong desire to ensure that "the culture of rock T-shirts isn’t just a temporary fad, but something carefully carried forward into the future."

Finally, Maeda shares a memorable story from his buying trips to the U.S.:

"Back in the days when I was hunting for finds in America, I often wore vintage rock T-shirts, and strangers would frequently stop me in the street to say things like ‘Amazing!’ or ‘I love your shirt!’ The best reactions were always when I wore an Ozzy Osbourne shirt (laughs)."

One T-shirt can cross borders and languages. Believing in that power, LABORATORY® continues to spin the “memories of music” to this day.