The Origin & Pinnacle of the Polo Shirt: Why Does Lacoste's "L.12.12" Remain Timelessly Loved Across Generations?

Summer is the season when you just want to throw on a polo shirt.

Tracing the roots of this now-iconic item—long established as a staple of lifestyle wear—brings us back to LACOSTE's legendary L.12.12.

The polo shirt of all polo shirts, adored around the globe. Let’s take a look back at its journey from creation to becoming a modern classic.

Rewind to 1928, when professional tennis player René Lacoste appeared in the finals of the French International Championships (now the French Open). The crowd was astonished by what they saw.

The world champion, a point of national pride in France, wore a short-sleeved knit shirt. Inspired by the shirts worn by polo players[1], René developed his creation: a collared short-sleeve shirt.

The tennis scene in the 1920s was far more conservative in terms of dress codes, and rigid rules were strictly enforced. Players typically wore long-sleeve, loose-fitting, woven cotton shirts.

Ignoring the perplexed reactions around him, René gave a stellar performance in his sleek, fitted shirt, catching the eyes of both spectators and fellow competitors. Despite some criticism, he wore his creation with confidence, unfazed by the backlash.

This shirt was dubbed "Polo Shirt" and quickly took the tennis world by storm.

In 1933, René founded Lacoste and launched his polo shirts to the public. This marked the birth of the now-iconic "L.12.12."

In Japan, it's often called "Eru Ichini Ichini," but the correct pronunciation is "L-twelve twelve."

"L" stands for Lacoste, the first "1" denotes "material," the "2" stands for "short-sleeved," and "12" is the number of the prototype that finally received René’s approval after many trials.

A Natural Hi-Tech Fabric that Revolutionized Tennis Wear

The body is crafted from a knit material called "Petit Piqué," made of 100% cotton.

René developed this fabric together with his friend and businessman André Gillier. Known as "Kanoko" in Japan, it's fine-textured, soft on the skin, durable, and extremely resilient—making it the ultimate choice for tennis wear.

At the time, tennis shirts were woven, trapping heat and barely absorbing sweat, leading to severe chills—something René himself often battled. In contrast, Petit Piqué offered outstanding breathability and absorbed perspiration with ease.

Lacoste’s signature Petit Piqué is crafted exclusively from select materials even today.

The cotton used is extra-long staple, with fibers over 35mm—specifically premium Supima cotton from the USA.

Furthermore, twisted two-ply yarns are used in production, offering greater strength and durability compared to single-ply kanoko, so the shirt holds its shape and stays crisp for longer.

The knitting machine’s deep needle beds and pronounced curvature create a clear, bumpy texture on the surface—another hallmark of the fabric. This texture minimizes skin contact, helping the fabric feel dry and fresh even when you sweat.

Why the Crocodile Logo?

When you think of a Lacoste polo, you instantly picture that iconic crocodile on the left chest.

This legendary patch debuted the very year the brand was founded, in 1933. Adding a symbolic logo to the chest of sports uniforms was considered groundbreaking at the time.

So why a crocodile?

The answer: René earned the "Crocodile" nickname for his relentless, never-let-go playing style—hence the motif.

The very first crocodile image was based on a sketch by Robert George, René’s designer friend.

Afterwards, for approximately 90 years, designers have gradually changed the color and appearance of the crocodile emblem, passing it down to the present day. Since the brand's founding, the rules have stipulated that the emblem patch must be sewn on with black thread matching the outline of the crocodile, and the patch itself must be 3 cm wide.

Detail Work Balancing Elegance & Functionality

Let’s check out the details.

Side slits are featured at both hems to enhance ease of movement. Many brands have imitated these slits, but their length has remained fixed at 20 mm.

The buttons on the placket are made of natural shell, the same material used for luxury dress shirts. Depending on the body color, either white mother-of-pearl or black mother-of-pearl buttons are used.

Additionally, the upper placket is designed to extend about 2 mm to the right, towards the true front. This ensures that when all buttons are fastened, moving your body won’t reveal the inside placket underneath.

Elsewhere, the inside of the shoulders is reinforced with a hidden tape, and the collar is constructed with special stitching to maintain its three-dimensional shape—showing that even the less visible parts are meticulously crafted.

Underlying this Lacoste quality is Japan’s remarkable technical expertise.

The current models sold in Japan are made at Lacoste’s dedicated factory in Yokote City, Akita Prefecture. Here, they follow the precise specifications created at the brand’s own factory in Troyes, France, down to the millimeter, and almost all of the approximately 30 finishing steps are performed by hand.

Surprisingly, for nearly 20 years after its launch, the only available color was white. This was because tennis courts served as a social gathering space for refined ladies and gentlemen, and wearing white—unaffected by obvious sweat stains—was considered proper etiquette.

It wasn’t until 1951 that navy and red were introduced, followed by the addition of more shades as seasonal trends evolved.

Now, there are over 40 color options available.

Six staple colors are always available: white, navy, red, and “Lacoste Green,” a dark green, among others. This season, you’ll find 26 colors online and 16 in stores.

No matter how many you already own, you’ll find yourself wanting more. Each season introduces new shades and an ever-expanding palette, sparking the urge to collect them.

From the Ivy League Boom to Mainstream Casual Wear

So how was the L.12.12, originally created as tennis wear, transformed into a fashion icon?

The turning point was sparked by the Ivy look and preppy style craze that took place from the 1960s through the 1980s.

This trend paved the way for the polo’s breakthrough as casual wear.

Recently, with the surge in vintage clothing popularity, demand has reignited once more.

New styles and collaborations reflecting today’s trends have helped Lacoste resonate with pop culture—from hip-hop and grime music scenes to skateboarding—winning fans among Gen Z as well.

This season, a new model called the "L.12.12 Light" has been launched in response to increasingly hotter summers.

This model uses a new polyester-blend fabric, lighter and more breathable than the classic 100% cotton petit piqué.

A revolutionary tennis shirt that initially stirred controversy, the L.12.12 now stands, after over 90 years, as the go-to for sophisticated casual wear—suited for any setting. The commitment of René Lacoste to comfortable, easy-to-move-in apparel remains a timeless common sense.