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"Everyday Life in Mexico" Becomes Fashion: The Beauty of the Mercado Bag Woven by Letra & Mexican Artisans
Vividly colored, lightweight basket bags, intricately woven from plastic cord. Sola of Tokyo Co., Ltd. has named these bags, produced by Mexican artisans, "Mercado Bags," and has been expanding their Letra brand, steadily gaining fans in Japan.
We spoke with Norihiro Ogawa, head of the Letra division, about the origin story of the Mercado Bag and the craftsmanship and dedication poured into each item, born from the trust between Letra and their Mexican partners.
A Marketplace Encounter in Mexico: The Starting Point
Sola of Tokyo, well known for their women’s apparel brand "flower," saw the beginning of Letra’s journey during a trip to Mexico by its CEO, Masanori Kitajima. Based in Los Angeles, Kitajima visited a market in Oaxaca, southern Mexico, around 2004 and discovered these charming basket bags.The vibrant colors and distinctive forms immediately caught his eye, and this first step—selling these as imported items at flower—marked the birth of the Mercado Bag.
The colorful bags brightened up the displays at flower and quickly became a hit, especially with women shoppers. Ogawa, who manages Letra, reflects: "I think the bags felt new and fresh to customers, thanks to their playful yet not-too-cheap, toy-like texture, and their one-of-a-kind designs that set them apart from the crowd."
Around 2010, Kitajima also started selling Mexican basket bags at LA’s Rose Bowl Flea Market. Soon, Japanese select shops coming to buy at the flea market began placing orders, spurring Letra to explore the potential for a full-scale presence in Japan. Around this time, the style of the bags made in Mexico also began to evolve.
"The original bags used thicker cord, resulting in chunkier, more rugged forms. But as times changed and demand shifted, softer, sleeker, and more practical bags made from thinner cord became the norm.
We exhibited under our previous brand at a 2014 trade show in Japan, which marked the beginning of our own production, and this is when our brand development really took off."
It was also around this time that Kitajima officially named these local basket bags "Mercado Bags."
In Mexico, these Mercado Bags aren’t thought of as fashion items—they’re seen as durable everyday carryalls to bring to the market or farm, able to withstand dirt and wear. That’s why the bags were given the name derived from the Spanish word for "market", "mercado."
From Farm Tools to Fashion Accessories
Basket bags made in Mexico have developed unique characteristics across the various regions. In Oaxaca, where Letra has built their relationships, the tradition originally involved weaving with palm leaves. In the 1990s, plastic cord gradually became the preferred material.For farm work, these water-resistant, robust, and long-lasting plastic bags proved incredibly convenient, and their use spread rapidly.
When Letra began crafting Mercado Bags independently, they put special value on honoring the local atmosphere and the spirit of the artisans who weave each one. At the same time, they listened carefully to Japanese consumers’ needs and worked together with the artisans to update the bags little by little.
They were especially particular about the colors. Since these bags were originally for fieldwork or market trips, local preferences leaned toward colors that wouldn’t easily show dirt, and the inherently colorful taste of locals made it difficult at first to get them on board with simple, unpatterned, or white bags. But Letra patiently explained that such styles suited the look and feel of Japanese cities, and eventually convinced the artisans to try something new.
"We took great care in explaining our idea that we wanted to propose Mercado Bags not as work gear, but as stylish, town-use accessories to the local artisans.
These simple, unpatterned, or white designs were well received in Japan—and funny enough, they’re now trending in Mexico as well! It’s been a fascinating role reversal."
Locally, the larger M size (approx. 31cm height x 33cm width) is commonly used, but at Letra, the S size, which fits A4 documents (approx. 29cm height x 31cm width), and the slightly smaller XS size (approx. 24cm height x 27cm width) are especially popular. This shows just how well mercado bags have been embraced by Japanese users as a daily fashion item.
Fine Customization Possible Thanks to Trust-based Relationships
Mercado bags are deeply infused with elements of Mexican history and culture. Many of the geometric and zigzag patterns are motifs originating from the Zapotec civilization in the state of Oaxaca. Ogawa reflects, “I was once surprised to see how much the mosaic decorations at the Mitla ruins, which I visited in person, resembled the designs on mercado bags.”
Letra’s designers respectfully incorporate elements of these Mexican traditions, while also introducing original checkered patterns that fit seamlessly into modern Japanese lifestyles, reconstructing and suggesting new designs along the way.
The process of making the bags is extremely hands-on. Artisans insert cords into a mold box with a spatula and weave each section carefully by hand. The wide array of sizes Letra offers, as well as subtle changes such as handle length – tailored for easier use by Japanese customers – are the fruits of relationships built with local partners over more than 15 years.
“We sometimes place custom requests for very precise sizing, but normally, local artisans dislike being asked for such detailed specifications. The fact that they’re willing to accommodate our requests shows the kind of relationship we’ve built—this is Letra’s distinct strength.”
The current core target is women in their 30s and 40s, but with a variety of over 20 designs every season—from chic colorways to playful pop patterns—the lineup allows users of a wide age range (from their 20s to over 60s) to freely choose based on style and purpose.
First-time buyers often gravitate toward basic colors like black or monotone, but for their second or subsequent bags, many enjoy “trying something bold” by selecting a colorful pattern.
On Instagram, posts showing kids’ outfits paired with mercado bags also stand out.
“Mercado bags can easily be washed with water when they get dirt or mud on them, so they’re actually very handy for parents with young children. I’d be thrilled if families would share these bags, and if, when their children grow up and become adults, they choose their own favorite mercado bags—well, that would be even more wonderful.”
Aiming to Enrich People's Lives
Mercado bags let people enjoy their own style in many different situations. Ogawa says, “There’s no set ideal for what a mercado bag should be.”“People might think Letra is a mercado bag brand, but we actually started as a 'lifestyle brand for introducing Mexican household goods to Japan.' Mercado bags aren’t just for town use—the larger sizes can also serve as interior items, and you can now find them more often even at general goods stores. By making our items part of people’s daily lives, I hope we can become something that enriches their hearts, even just a little.”
Ogawa visits Mexico frequently. “People there are very warm and always welcome us with open arms. The food is truly delicious, and the beautiful artisanal skills passed down through generations are truly wonderful. I hope to continue sharing Mexico’s charms in the future.”
Instead of mass production, Letra delivers handwoven mercado bags—each one carefully crafted by artisans. Their appeal lies not just in the products themselves, but in the culture and human warmth woven within them, bringing color to people’s lives in Japan.
PROFILE
Norihiro Ogawa
Sola of Tokyo Co., Ltd., Letra Division Director
Born in 1983, currently residing in Kanagawa Prefecture
A lifelong fashion enthusiast since student days, with a love for vintage and contemporary secondhand clothing. Prior to his current role, he worked as a buyer, store manager, and salesperson at the same company. He first joined an apparel trading company as a new graduate, but switched to his current company in pursuit of working closer to the heart of the fashion scene. Under the guidance of the CEO Kitajima, he continues to gain a variety of experiences.
Ogawa has been involved in the business since its early days as a Mexican goods import and sales operation, and has officially headed the Letra project since 2015. He introduces beautiful Mexican handcrafted items to Japan, visiting Oaxaca three to four times a year to maintain close relationships with local people.
Favorite foods include market and street-side taco de carnitas, tlayuda, and Oaxaca coffee.
Text by Mika Kishino
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