Comfort From the Summit to the Street! L.L.Bean’s New Merino Wool X COOLMAX Base Layer

Many people swear by merino wool for their base layers. Thanks to its excellent moisture-regulating, odor-resistant, and antibacterial properties, it's often called a “natural performance fabric.”

L.L.Bean, a quintessential American outdoor brand, has harnessed this amazing material. But what makes their new base layer so special? It’s said to leverage the best of merino wool while conquering its tendency to dry slowly. We sat down with Hironori Nakamura from L.L.Bean's PR team to get the details.

Cool in Summer, Warm in Winter. That's Why Merino Wool Is the Top Choice

"We developed this product in response to numerous customer requests for a high-quality base layer. We chose merino wool for its incredible performance characteristics."

Merino wool is a high-quality wool from the Merino breed of sheep.

"Its fibers are finer than those of regular wool, which gives it a soft feel against the skin and makes it less prone to itchiness. It combines moisture absorption, heat retention, and odor resistance, and has long been a go-to choice for mountaineering base layers."

When used as a base layer, the strengths of merino wool are further enhanced. The natural crimp in wool fibers creates numerous air pockets and has the ability to absorb water vapor from within and release it to the outside. This function helps release moisture to keep you dry in hot weather and retains heat to keep you warm in cold weather—it acts just like an air conditioner.

Additionally, its high moisture-wicking capability inhibits bacterial growth, which contributes to its excellent odor resistance. This makes it an invaluable asset on long treks where frequent laundering isn't an option.

"Its antibacterial and odor-fighting capabilities have passed tests conducted by a Japanese inspection agency in accordance with JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards)."

Solving Post-Sweat Chills with a COOLMAX Hybrid

However, even a material as comfortable as merino wool isn't perfect in every respect.

"While it's highly absorbent, it releases moisture more slowly than synthetic fibers. This means it can take a while to dry after you sweat, which can lead to post-sweat chills, particularly in the summer. That's what sparked the idea of creating a blend with COOLMAX."

Developed by the American company Invista, this high-performance polyester fiber features a unique cross-section with grooves and channels. This structure rapidly pulls sweat away from the skin and disperses it, enabling it to dry incredibly fast. By keeping the skin-contact surface dry, it helps reduce that sticky feeling and the risk of post-sweat chills.

"So, for our new base layer, we decided to use a hybrid material that combines ultra-fine 17.5-micron merino wool with COOLMAX."

The blend ratio was also carefully chosen to enhance performance.

"The blend is over 60% merino wool and under 40% COOLMAX. By making merino wool the star of the show, we created a hybrid design that preserves all the benefits of wool while using COOLMAX to supercharge its drying speed."

Stretch and 3D Modeling for Unrestricted Movement

Trying it on, the texture is smooth and comfortable. It's also stretchy and easy to move in. But there's no polyurethane in the blend...

"That's because merino wool fibers naturally possess elasticity and resilience from their unique crimped structure. We also engineered the knit fabric to further enhance the stretch, which is essential for a base layer."

As a base layer, the design is simple, with the traditional Katahdin logo subtly placed on the hem of the top.

The shirt features raglan sleeves, a common element in sportswear and outdoor apparel. A diagonal seam runs from the neckline to the underarm, increasing the arm's range of motion for better mobility. This enhanced freedom of movement is also thanks to a pattern design that utilizes 3D modeling.

Conventional pattern design starts with creating a 2D paper pattern, which is then sewn into a 3D garment before modifications are made. In contrast, 3D modeling captures the human body in three dimensions from the outset using 3D scanners and modeling software. It designs the pattern by analyzing factors like body shape, lines during motion, and range of motion.

“With our 3D modeling, we can design clothing three-dimensionally on a computer and view it from 360 degrees, much like a virtual fitting. The fabric's properties are also incorporated, allowing us to visualize and address any discomfort, such as areas of tightness or pulling, when the garment is actually worn. This helps us make improvements.

Moreover, by adjusting the avatar's physique, we can simulate fittings on various body types, enabling us to deliver a comfortable fit to a broad spectrum of users.”

By three-dimensionally sculpting the body's natural contours, the slope of the shoulders, and the arms' range of motion, the fit is significantly improved. Furthermore, by ensuring ample room for movement, actions like raising your arms or bending down while hiking become effortless.

“We adjust the sizing and pattern to ensure comfort not just in the outdoors, but in everyday life as well.”

The Secret to Its Popularity: High Versatility and Reasonable Pricing

“We’ve received a lot of positive feedback from customers, with comments like, ‘It feels great against the skin,’ ‘It dries sweat quickly,’ ‘I always feel comfortable in it,’ and ‘I really noticed less of a chill from sweat at the summit.’ Thanks to its versatility, it seems many people are using it not just for hiking, but for daily wear too.”

Additionally, while merino wool apparel is typically pricey, L.L.Bean offers theirs at a more accessible price point, which is another key reason for its popularity.

“Since our founding, L.L.Bean has focused on providing long-lasting, high-quality products at a fair price. We wanted this base layer to be something people could wear casually in their everyday lives, so we've kept the price as affordable as possible.”

The company is also reportedly considering expanding the line to include sleeveless versions and arm covers. L.L.Bean's base layer achieves its high performance by blending natural and synthetic fibers. It’s more than just an undershirt; it’s a piece of gear designed to help you enjoy a more active daily life.