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Longchamp's Iconic Bags "Le Roseau" and "Le Pliage®" Capture the Essence of Leather Craftsmanship
Founded in Paris in 1948, Longchamp has garnered support from people around the world for its timeless designs and remarkable functionality, which are both lightweight and durable. In Japan, it is commonly seen being used in various settings, from commuting to studying and travel.
When one thinks of Longchamp, women's bags often come to mind, but it is surprising to note that it originally started as a “pipe shop” selling leather-wrapped pipes. How did Longchamp evolve from a luxury item to bags? We asked Ito from Longchamp Japan.
Began as a Leather-Wrapped Pipe Shop in Paris
Can you tell us about the background behind the brand's creation?
Longchamp was established by Jean Cassegrain and his family. Although the brand is now strongly associated with women's bags, Jean initially managed a tobacco shop in Paris that was founded by his parents in 1926.After World War II ended in 1945, American soldiers stationed in Europe found L-shaped pipes popular as souvenirs during their return.
Noticing this trend, Jean founded Longchamp in 1948 as a French leather goods brand, considering whether it could merge French craftsmanship into something beyond just an L-shaped pipe. He collaborated with leather artisans who hand-wrapped leather around the pipes, which were rare at the time and gained great popularity. This was the catalyst for developing leather products.
How did the production of bags start after the leather-wrapped pipes?
It was sparked by an idea from Jean's son, Philippe.In the early 1950s, when Philippe was just 16, Jean encouraged him to broaden his horizons by embarking on a solo world trip. During his travels, Philippe made three predictions about the future of “travel.” The first was that “people would begin traveling for leisure,” secondly, “people would gather at airports for travel,” and finally, “not just men but women would also travel.”
Based on these forecasts, Jean began creating leather passport cases and suitcases. Additionally, establishing a store inside an airport, which was rare at that time, proved beneficial, and travel-related leather goods were embraced by many customers.
Gradually expanding the range of leather items, it was in 1971 that Philippe produced the first women's leather bag.
Signature Creations of Longchamp: "Le Roseau" & "Le Pliage®"
Can you tell us about the brand's representative items?
Among the bag collection, we present "Le Roseau" and "Le Pliage." Both were launched in 1993."Le Roseau" is a quintessential Longchamp leather bag and is part of the brand's iconic collection. The name "Le Roseau" refers to the plant reed, and its trunk resembles bamboo, with this feature accentuating the bag like chunky duffle coat fasteners.
In Europe, reeds are known as strong yet beautiful plants that sway gracefully in the wind while their roots remain firmly grounded. This image is also reflected in "Le Roseau."
Originally, this bag was loved by fashion editors sitting in the front row of runways. Rather than being a cute, small bag, it is designed considering women's growing presence in the workplace, featuring a tote bag style for easy access with a wide opening, which was a revolutionary design at the time and received significant attention.
"Le Pliage®" is a collection originally made from nylon, a material that was rare for women's bags at the time. Philippe was inspired after seeing nylon military equipment used by the French army and thought, "It would be interesting to combine the leather techniques that Longchamp has developed with a foldable bag." This idea led to its creation.
The concept of folding is said to have been inspired by Japanese origami, which Philippe encountered during his travels in Hong Kong. He was captivated by how a single piece of paper can transform into various shapes and its minimal beauty. From Philippe's curiosity, a bag that embodies the brand's signature lightness and durability was born.
More than 30 years have passed since the birth of "Le Roseau" and "Le Pliage®," during which many different designs have emerged. While firmly adhering to the original characteristics and qualities of each collection, the design has expanded to adapt to the times.
New Collection "Replay" Featuring Patchworked Materials from the Atelier
Please tell us about the thoughts and philosophies you value in your manufacturing process.
From a manufacturing perspective, I believe that "if you create a product that lasts for generations, it is sustainable."The "Re-Play," born in 2022, also reflects your commitment to sustainability, right?
"Re-Play" is an upcycled collection that combines a diverse range of materials such as leather, nylon, silk scarves, and shoulder straps that have been resting in the French atelier, bringing them back to life as bags.What can we expect from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection?
This year’s Spring/Summer collection continues to be themed around the modern Parisian.
People from various backgrounds gather and live in Paris, inspired by the beauty of the city while crafting their own identities. I hope you will see the portrayal of the modern Parisian that Longchamp depicts through each season's collection.
While cherishing tradition, Longchamp also possesses the flexibility to continually incorporate new ideas. It is sure to continue radiating a strong presence as a global leather brand with bold ideas and a spirit of innovation.
PROFILE
Yukiko Ito
LONGCHAMP JAPAN K. K.
Marketing Manager
Text by Rika Okuyama
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