Artist & Fashion Designer: The Unique Career of "Elegant Thorns" Artist Mayu Yukishita

Mayu Yukishita, an artist known for her realistic yet somewhat dark illustrations, launched her fashion brand "Esth." in 2020, marking the beginning of her activities as a designer. Although her brand activities were temporarily paused, she plans to relaunch in 2025. What kind of world does she intend to depict in the realms of illustration and fashion? We delved into her thoughts.

The Origin of Her Activities: "Copying"

First, can you tell us what inspired you to start drawing illustrations?

I don’t have a clear moment that sparked my interest; I have liked drawing since I was a child, and I vaguely thought I wanted to pursue a job in art when I was in elementary school.

Initially, I would copy images from animal encyclopedias, but during my elementary to junior high years, I was influenced by the works of manga artist Shou Tajima, and I began to mimic his manga drawings. I started to depict realistic art in a manga style using fewer lines.

Once I entered university, I majored in graphic design while teaching myself sketching and oil painting. Around that time, I began creating works that incorporated both the two-dimensional elements of manga and the realistic aspects of oil painting.

When did you start your career as an illustrator in earnest?

I began sharing my illustrations on social media around my first year in university, and gradually, more people started to see my work. By my second year, I began to receive freelance opportunities. At one point, I considered getting a job, but ultimately, I started working as a freelance illustrator immediately after graduating from university, and I’ve continued along this path.

Did your artistic style resemble what you create now from the beginning?

When I first began sharing my work on social media, my style was cute and pastel-toned. As I received more work, the clarity of what was expected of me increased. Particularly, the project for CreepHyp’s album "泣きたくなるほど嬉しい日々に" felt like a turning point for me and seems to connect to my current artistic style.

Clothes to Hide Everyone’s Insecurities

While expanding her activities in the illustration field, you launched the fashion brand "Esth." in 2020. Was there a specific trigger for this?

It all started with my graduation project: I created clothes printed with oil paintings using silkscreen. At that time, I made them purely as artwork, but a friend involved in garment production management saw my exhibit and invited me to start a brand together.

I have been interested in fashion since entering university, particularly brands like "HELIOT EMIL" and "alexanderwang," but I never thought I would end up running a fashion brand myself.

What is the brand concept of “Esth.”?

The brand name is derived from the horror movie "Orphan." The character Esther in the film harbors a significant insecurity, but the clothing that she wears to conceal it is elegant, sharp, and somewhat cute. I found that style and mood appealing, which led to the choice of brand name.

I believe everyone has their own insecurities, even if they differ in content. I hope that viewers of my illustrations can resonate with my work and feel reassured. In "Esth.," I aspire to create clothing that serves as an "elegant thorn" to hide the insecurities that everyone carries.

Where do you find inspiration when considering design?

Music and movies are my main sources. In terms of music, I often draw inspiration from the fashion of customers attending club events and costumes featured in music videos of my favorite artists. In particular, the fashion of Yolandi from the rave music group Die Antwoord has a similar impression to the concept of “Esth.,” and I reference it for balance and such.

In movies, I frequently reference color palettes when shooting brand looks or creating illustrations. I’ve been a big fan of the nightmarish aesthetics that come from the purplish hues and greenish film tones in David Lynch’s works since high school, and I continue to be influenced by them.

The World of Expression Expanded by “Esth.”

Has your experience in the world of illustration influenced your fashion design?

Perhaps due to my background in realistic illustration, I tend to include detailed aspects like seams in my design sketches, which some pattern makers commend for being concrete and easy to visualize. However, on the flip side, one could argue that being too specific makes it challenging to broaden the scope, so I’ve been considering trying a more abstract approach in my future design sketches.

Conversely, has your experience as a fashion designer influenced your illustrations?

I feel like I’ve found new modes of expression. In particular, I’ve learned a lot from professionals like stylists and photographers during look shoots.

Since starting my brand, my perspective has changed as well. At the beginning of my freelance journey in the illustration world, I thought all I had was drawing, which began to feel like a suffocating burden.

However, by starting to express myself through fashion branding beyond just illustration, I feel like my world has expanded. Now, I’m willing to engage in anything I’m interested in, like trying my hand at DJing. I have the sensation that this approach positively influences my illustrations as well.

I believe “Esth.” is set to restart in 2025; are there any new things you’d like to try?

Having taken a break for about two years, my mindset has changed, so I want to present expressions that differ a bit from what I’ve done before. Specifically, designs from the early stages often had a sharp impression, but the collection starting this year will be more mature in tone.

I’m currently preparing for a solo exhibition in March and hope to finalize the details for the “Esth.” designs to announce them as soon as possible. Ultimately, I’d be happy if those who wish to express themselves even more can wear my designs.

Yukishita shared her thoughts on her future: “Even if I set future goals, things rarely go exactly as planned, both positively and negatively. That's why I want to give my all to what’s in front of me, as I believe that will connect to the future.” She seems to actively expand her activities into areas of interest without overly confining her future, suggesting she will continue to grow while enjoying her journey ahead.