A Nod to the DC Brand Boom! "1978 MEN'S MELROSE"—The Keyword Is 'Late 80s–Early 90s'

Back in the 1980s, Japan was swept up in the massive "DC brand" boom. Even if you weren't around then, chances are you've heard the term. The "D" in "DC brand" stands for "Designers," and the "C" for "Characters." Brands named directly after their creators were dubbed "Designers" brands, while those with a distinct, separate identity were called "Characters" brands.

This DC brand boom was a monumental event in the history of Japanese fashion. The 1980s were also the very era when Japanese designers began making waves at Paris Collection (Fashion Week).

The brand we're featuring today, "1978 MEN'S MELROSE," masterfully channels the vibe of that era while blending it seamlessly with contemporary design.

We sat down with designer Makoto Matsushima to discuss the debut Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, tracing the history of "MEN'S MELROSE"—a brand born in 1978 and a key player at the heart of the DC brand boom.

What '1978' Signifies: The Brand's Birth Year and the Spirit of the Era

"The womenswear brand 'Melrose' launched in 1973. Five years later, in 1978, 'Men's Melrose' was born. The '1978' in our new brand name, '1978 MEN'S MELROSE,' signifies its founding year."

"The 1970s were really the prelude to the DC brand boom. Small-scale apparel companies, known as 'mansion makers,' began popping up one after another in places like the Dojunkai Apartments in Omotesando (now Omotesando Hills) and the surrounding neighborhood."

"It was a time when designers were actively drawing inspiration from overseas fashion but also searching for their own unique style and building a distinct vision. I believe this momentum accelerated and eventually led to the DC brand boom of the 1980s. The values of Japanese fashion underwent a major shift, and the Melrose brand was at the forefront, sparking a huge movement."

A New Take on Trad Style from "1978 MEN'S MELROSE": Where Nostalgia and Modernity Collide

Now, let's dive into the history of Men's Melrose from the late 1980s to the early 1990s, the period that inspired the launch of "1978 MEN'S MELROSE."

"'1978 MEN'S MELROSE' will launch in October 2025. The concept is a 'return to our roots.' The company has kept old catalogs and documents in its archives, but we've rarely had the chance to go back and look through them."

"However, with Melrose's 50th anniversary two years ago, we took the opportunity to look back at those old catalogs. There was such a creative and free-spirited energy in them; it was incredibly exciting. By revisiting the brand's history and vision and respectfully re-examining our design archives, the brand concept began to take shape."

"The first collection features many pieces inspired by the 1987 collection. We aimed for a vibe that feels both nostalgic and fresh, something you might stumble upon in a vintage shop."

"The 1980s was a time of economic prosperity, and I think it was an era when creating clothes was just pure fun. We want to capture that spirit while weaving in contemporary moods and trends."

"Furthermore, the designers who shaped the Men's Melrose style from the late 80s to the 90s each had their own unique personalities. But when you look at the old catalogs, you can feel an energy from every era that just makes you think, 'This is cool.'"

"While each designer had a different approach, a traditional 'trad' style was always at the core. We plan to use this element as a foundation to reconstruct the designs for '1978 MEN'S MELROSE.'"

Key Items from the First Collection

Now that we've delved into the brand's concept and the historical backdrop of the DC brand boom, let's check out some key pieces from this season's debut collection.

"Let's start with the duffle coat. The 1980s coat silhouette, with its charmingly roomy and oversized fit, served as our inspiration, which we've updated with a modern twist. It features classic details like hemp rope and wooden toggles, giving it a timeless appeal.

While coats back then were often made from heavy, dense melton wool, today's fashion values lightness and comfort. That's why we bonded a sponge-like material to a thinner melton fabric, making it incredibly lightweight. This spongy layer also traps body heat, providing excellent insulation.

Additionally, diving into the archives, we noticed a lot of checkered patterns from the 1980s, which inspired us to release a plaid duffle coat. It showcases a classic British-style check with a brushed, shaggy texture for a catchy, statement-making look."

A Quintessential Trad Style Item: The 'Single-Breasted Jacket'

Let's dive into another signature piece that epitomizes the trad style we were just talking about.

"Next up is the blazer-style 'Single-Breasted Jacket.' It features the classic gold buttons and patch pockets, but we've sprinkled in authentic details from that era.

For example, while coin pockets typically have a flap, we've intentionally left it off. Also, the lapel's gorge line, which is usually set higher in modern jackets, was often lower in the 1980s and 1990s, giving it a more classic 'business suit' vibe. We've mirrored that by designing this model with a slightly lower gorge.

It's crafted from Super 100s wool, making it exceptionally soft and comfortable to wear. We also suggest pairing it as a set with the 'Easy Wide-Leg Trousers' made from the same material. It creates a refined, high-quality look."

The Iconic 'Jacquard Sweater' of 1987

The new collection also includes several pieces that faithfully recreate designs from the archives. While the materials have been updated, let's look at an item that pays deep respect to its vintage counterpart.

"Let's talk about the 'Jacquard Sweater,' first released in 1987. Our only reference was a photo from an old catalog, but we were so captivated by its vibe and powerful presence that we recreated the pattern based on that single image.

It's a jacquard knit. While the original sweaters from that time were made of a rather heavy wool, this version uses bouclé yarn—known for its fluffy, textured feel—blended with stretch yarn for a soft, lightweight fit.

During the DC brand boom, it was said, 'When you think of knitwear, you think of MELROSE.' That's why this jacquard sweater is a key item in our collection. It's a piece that instantly captures the feel of that era."

The DC brand boom was a defining moment in Japanese fashion history. But this isn't about wistful nostalgia. We've heard a story of rediscovery—unearthing the essence of that era's style, adapting it for today, and honoring the legacy of the designers who shaped it.

By returning to its traditional roots and infusing timeless designs with a contemporary edge, the '1978 MEN'S MELROSE' brand carves out a truly unique space in the fashion world.

This brand is just getting started, and we can't wait to see what comes next.