Is Silicone Harmful for Hair & Scalp? Kao, the Maker of the Non-Silicone "merit," Addresses the Misconceptions

When choosing shampoo, you might have heard sayings like "go non-silicone because it clogs your scalp" or "silicone makes it hard for hair color to take." However, some people may wonder if these beliefs are actually true.

In this article, we interviewed Noboru Chiba, who has long been involved in the development of hair care products at Kao Corporation, which produces both silicone and non-silicone products such as merit. We asked him about the impact of silicone on hair and scalp, and how to choose the right hair care for your needs.

"Clogging the Scalp" is a Misconception—The Facts About Silicone

It's been over ten years since debate began around silicone shampoos, yet much confusion remains. According to Chiba, there are still widespread misunderstandings about silicone.

"The 'silicon' that many people hear about and the 'silicone' we use in hair care products are actually different things. 'Silicon' refers to the element found in semiconductors and in nature, while the substance in hair care products is 'silicone,' an organosilicon compound. This means it's silicon bonded with other ingredients.

"Because of its appearance, silicone is often mistakenly believed to ‘clog the scalp,’ but that is not a concern in reality. When formulated into shampoo, surfactants are used to ensure it doesn't leave hair feeling greasy. Also, silicone molecules are much smaller than hair follicle openings, and they don’t have properties that make them linger in pores. So, when you rinse, silicone does not clog the scalp."

So, what about the belief that "silicone prevents hair dye from penetrating"?

"This is only partly true. Treatments—especially those aimed at repairing damage—sometimes contain generous amounts of silicone to make hair smooth. If you don’t rinse thoroughly and too much silicone remains on your hair, cuticles may not open as easily, which in some cases can make it harder for color to penetrate.

"That said, how well color takes actually depends a lot on the manufacturer’s technological capabilities. At Kao, we adjust silicone adhesion to improve shine and feel without affecting coloring results.

"If your hair feels heavy after shampooing, it could be a sign that excess silicone has built up. Ingredients on the label are listed from highest to lowest amount—and for those present in 1% or less, order is random—so referencing this while choosing products can be helpful. However, different types of silicone and company technologies mean this is just a rough guideline."

Silicone ingredients can appear as methicone, dimethicone, siloxane, silicone, silane, among others—but that’s not an exhaustive list. If you’re particularly concerned, contacting the manufacturer directly is your best option.

Kao offers a wide range of products, from the non-silicone "merit" to those containing silicone. Chiba explains, "This is based on our philosophy of creating what our customers want."

"Silicone-containing shampoos once dominated the market, and around 2000, glossy and shiny hair became the trend, resulting in hits like LUX, Pantene, and Asience. However, by around 2012, non-silicone shampoos and scalp care products started booming, followed by an organic craze.

"The 'merit' shampoo has been formulated without silicone since its launch, and by the 2000s, it clearly displayed its non-silicone and mildly acidic properties on its packaging. Following this, amino acid-based cleansing agents also gained popularity. At Kao, we comprehensively offer various types of products to meet changing market trends and diverse customer needs."

Under its business vision "From strengthening hair to empowering people," Kao has reorganized its hair care brand lineup based on intrinsic emotional needs (see portfolio). While focusing on emotions, Kao leverages its 100 years of hair care research expertise to exceed consumers' expectations with every brand.

"In recent years, Kao's approach has shifted to not only addressing the 'functional' needs around hair concerns, but also appealing to the 'brand worldview' and 'pleasant experiences'—targeting the emotions customers aspire to after achieving beautiful hair. For instance, 'melt' released in spring 2024 is themed around 'rest beauty' that evokes the emotion of 'comfort,' offering products that resonate with customers' feelings."

"On August 9, we launched the new brand 'MEMEME,' designed to produce the 'Intense' emotion. This brand provides a 'boost-care experience' with a playful sensation, allowing users to achieve their desired hairstyle effortlessly in less time, uplifting both hair and mood."

How to Choose the Best Hair Care for You

So, how can you choose the best hair care for yourself from countless products available? According to Chiba, the key is to consider two main axes: the condition of your hair and the condition of your scalp.

"Specifically, you should assess if your hair is damaged, or whether it’s thick or thin. For the scalp, evaluate if it’s oily, dry, or prone to dandruff—it’s important to be aware of your own condition.

"Kao develops the functions of each brand with these conditions in mind, designing them to serve as a guide when choosing your products."

In terms of function, the medicated product "merit" specializes in scalp care and is suitable for users with scalp concerns or those who like a refreshing finish. For younger users concerned about hair damage, "Essentia" brings shine to damaged hair.

For those worried about reduced hair volume or waviness as they age, "Segreta," a line for mature generations, is a great choice. For advanced care, "melt" offers carbonated shampoos and multi-sensory experiences through sound, lather, and fragrance, with a moist type and a smooth type coming in spring 2025 for a delightful sensory experience.

"THE ANSWER," packed with the five essential beauty hair ingredients, is another comprehensive care option, making it ideal for improving issues such as dryness or color damage by rebuilding hair from the very roots, starting with the shampoo process.

The new brand "MEMEME" repairs hair damage and creates glossy, touchably soft hair even after coloring or heat styling. Kao has improved the absorption of this highly concentrated treatment formula into hair, allowing the treatment's ingredients to reach every strand, even with the same usage as always—a feat previously considered difficult within Kao.

Among the many Kao hair care products, "merit," which boasts a 55-year history, stands as a truly unique brand. In 2024, this long-standing bestseller began to rebrand itself, undergoing a significant transformation by 2025.

"With this rebranding, we've shifted our focus from the previous images of freshness and sweat care to highlight what lies at the heart of 'merit': the value of 'family.'

"With the new concept of 'Family Love Shampoo,' both the main and kids' lines have undergone a complete overhaul in terms of performance and feel. From the packaging to the contents, everything was designed to embrace the customer's desire for 'gentleness and authenticity.'"

This shift comes in response to changes in user attitudes following the COVID-19 pandemic. The habit of handwashing led to increased emphasis on "foam quality," and as people spent more time with their families, their appreciation for family bonds deepened. More and more customers began seeking emotional value—such as "comfort," "gentleness," and "cleanliness"—in the products they use.

"The key points behind this improvement are the pursuit of fine, rich lather and healthy scalp, achieved by carefully selecting plant-derived ingredients. Our particular obsession with foam quality means even children can shampoo their hair easily. The dense foam holds together and reforms even if it collapses—a testament to Kao's expertise in surfactant development."

Proving those words true, I noticed a delightful change in my own household: my son, who once resisted having his hair washed, took an interest in the new bottle of "merit Kids" and now enjoys washing his hair all by himself, playing with the fluffy foam. The simple chatter between parent and child, along with the gentle scent of the shampoo, will no doubt become a cherished memory.

Chiba commented, "In today's world, where nuclear families and solo living are on the rise and the nature of family life is diversifying, it's more important than ever for 'merit' to focus on emotional connections that transcend physical distance."

In fact, the TV commercials based on the theme of "family love" triggered significant buzz on social media, eliciting comments such as "It really resonates with me" and "I totally relate." Comfort, kindness, and family bonds—the renewed "merit" goes beyond just hair care to deliver meaningful, heartfelt value.

Just like "merit" demonstrates, recent trends in hair care focus not only on the health of hair and scalp but also on the emotional experiences and memories associated with hair care. Rather than worrying about silicone content, try choosing hair care products that match the current state of your hair, scalp, and your feelings.