Why Does Muji Need 'MUJI Labo'? How the 'Laboratory' Is Forging the Future and Soul of Craftsmanship

Within the world of Muji, there’s a line that truly stands out: 'MUJI Labo.' Launched in 2005, this collection has always been committed to bringing out the best in natural materials, with meticulous attention to every detail of its apparel. Recently, it underwent a major renewal—one that goes far beyond simple design changes to mark a new step toward creating the future of Muji.

In this feature, we sit down with Manabu Tateishi, product manager for 'MUJI Labo,' and Makoto Suzuki, its design manager, to explore the evolution of the brand’s philosophy and the soul of its craftsmanship—from its origins to the present day and beyond.

The Birth of MUJI Labo

Not everyone may have heard of 'MUJI Labo,' as it isn't available in every Muji store. The line was launched in 2005, and as its name—'Labo' for laboratory—suggests, it was created as a space for experimentation. It's where Muji can tackle challenging items that wouldn't fit into the regular lineup.

'The concept is to create products that harness the power of nature and materials—the core appeal of Muji—while being meticulous about every detail. To do that, you need a spirit of craftsmanship that just isn't possible with mass production and mass consumption. The idea of building a bridge to the future is at the very foundation of the brand,' explains Tateishi.

This philosophy has been refined with every renewal since 2005. The 2017 renewal was particularly symbolic, as it fully embraced the concepts of 'genderless' and 'ageless' design. It was a declaration of Muji's aim to create clothes anyone can wear, free from traditional distinctions of gender and age. This reflects a commitment to generating new values that align with today's diverse lifestyles.

What's fascinating about 'MUJI Labo' is that it truly functions as a laboratory. When an experiment succeeds, its findings are shared widely. The same thing happens within Muji itself.

'Our popular 'Kaze wo Toosu' (Airy) series, a summer staple, was first introduced in 'MUJI Labo,'' says Suzuki. 'It was so well-received that it's now part of our regular lineup and one of our flagship products.'

It seems that by pursuing what Muji truly wants to express, the brand often ends up creating products that many people are looking for. Who knows? The Muji clothes you're wearing right now might have been born in 'MUJI Labo' too.

And so, 'MUJI Labo'—a line always embracing new challenges—underwent another renewal in 2024. It was steadily gaining a fan base and finding its groove, so why the change now?

'What we really wanted to convey was the appeal of our natural materials, which is one of Muji's greatest strengths.' 'We spend years researching materials and traditional cultures from all over the world. How can we best utilize these amazing materials? How can we tell the story behind each product to our customers? The renewal was sparked by conversations within the company about revisiting these fundamental questions,' says Suzuki.

'Muji offers products for every aspect of life. So, for customers who first entered the world of Muji through our cosmetics or food items, we started thinking about how we could encourage them to try our clothing. We needed to consider the bigger picture, from a total production standpoint,' adds Tateishi.

As if to bring this perspective to life, the homepage showcases a guiding concept: “We aim to develop products and services that sustain the global environment, solve social issues, learn from cultural traditions, and allow each individual's personality to shine.” But what's the real meaning behind these words?

“When winter rolls around, you'll find plenty of cashmere products on the market. For the raw wool of the ‘as-is natural cashmere’ from Mongolia that we use, we travel to the source ourselves to ensure the cashmere goats are carefully raised by farms and nomadic communities, and we source it as directly from the nomads as possible.

It’s common practice in the industry to use cashmere goats that have been selectively bred to be white for easier dyeing. But we cherish the original texture of cashmere and avoid dyeing and bleaching whenever possible so people can enjoy its natural, untouched colors.”

These behind-the-scenes stories don't often make it into the spotlight. This commitment to learning from culture and tradition is also why we travel to these locations, researching local practices to inform our development.

“Khadi is a traditional Indian hand-spun, hand-woven cloth. It has natural unevenness unique to handwork and is exceptionally breathable. Because each piece is handmade, the fabric has an expression that mass production simply can't replicate. Locally known as the 'fabric of freedom,' it's a material rich with the cultural significance of being popularized by Gandhi throughout various regions,” explains Suzuki.

This process shows that for even a single material, years are spent researching its story, and only when they are fully convinced does it become a product. This is a clear glimpse into a manufacturing philosophy that prioritizes substance over style.

Despite this meticulous approach, it seems there are still challenges in getting the word out about MUJI Labo's appeal. Muji's global presence, in particular, presents unique hurdles.

“From a global perspective, we're facing the challenge of conveying our product development stories to local audiences. In many stores, the products are simply on the shelves, and I don't believe we're fully communicating their appeal. How to convey the passion we’ve discussed here remains a major challenge for us,” says Tateishi.

While grappling with these issues, the brand opened a MUJI Labo flagship store in Daikanyama, Japan. It's the perfect location to embody their initial goal of a “thoughtful lifestyle,” and with a large number of international customers, they are beginning to see its appeal spread, one person at a time.

While Muji products are already a favorite among those who care about quality materials, MUJI Labo stands in a class of its own. But this raises a question: Is its appeal limited to fashion insiders, failing to reach the broader public?

“First and foremost, the line's positioning is experimental. We have at least one store in major cities, so we don't consider it an exclusive line. We are also focused on integrating popular items from this line into our regular collection, envisioning a future where they can be enjoyed by a wider audience,” Tateishi shares.

Unlike other brands, its limited availability isn't what makes it special. Rather, the core idea seems to be that MUJI Labo exists to elevate the overall appeal of Muji itself.

“Just because it’s MUJI Labo doesn’t mean we're straying from Muji's fundamental principles. As a company, we see MUJI Labo as the concentrated essence of Muji's origins.

This is why our deep respect for nature and materials can spread through MUJI Labo, and we hope it becomes a reason for people to fall even more in love with Muji,” adds Suzuki.

MUJI Labo will undoubtedly continue to be a “laboratory.” The fruits of its experiments will, at times, become new Muji mainstays, poised to reshape our perspectives on clothing and nature. The 2024 renewal is, without a doubt, a new step forward in that quest.